Hello forum,

My 2008 EX35 have reached over 100k and just have a dealer visits for the oil changed. Naturally they come back with a list of ToDo list. I know those fluids are due to replace or flush; but not sure anyone have try to do some of these on your own instead of the dealer? I am located in the Chicago area...the following are from my dealer.

Brake fluid flush; $185
Fuel injection service; $175
Front & rear differential service; $250
Power steeling flush; $180

Any comment or feedback are welcome.

I do whatever the manual recommends for "less severe" maintenance. However, I do it all myself...so it is much cheaper. Except the brake flush, that I leave for the dealership.

My dealer also had a list of maintenance items waiting for me when I had them change the oil around 100K. I don't recall off the top of my head what they were pushing, but I had pretty much done them all prior to reaching that mileage.

As for your list...
-Brake Fluid Flush: I had the dealership do it I think about two years ago, for around $115-$120 here in northern NJ. I didn't think the car really needed it because the color of the fluid in the reservior was still incredibly light. But I had it done anyway as preventative maintenance. I've always been a bit hesitant to flush my brake fluid myself since I work alone. But what I'm really afraid of is running into rusted bleeder screws and breaking them off.
-Fuel Injection Service: I don't know of any modern cars on the market that require something like this as routine maintenance. Unless you're having an engine issue directly related to the injectors, this one seems like one of those services that are pure profit for dealer service departments. There might be lots of different ways to do this, but I personally only know of two: fuel system cleaner that comes in a bottle, or removal of the injectors and an ultrasonic cleaning. If the engine runs as well as when you first got the car, I'd definitely turn this down.
-Front and Rear Differential Fluid: I thought that the FSM had these fluids as "lifetime", but at the same time they are supposed to be inspected for condition and color, and replaced if necessary. I changed these out at around 80K, and they were both really dark. It was a pretty straightforward procedure. I believe my dealer charges under $90 for each differential.
-Power steering flush: The FSM doesn't list a maintenance interval for this item. Your fluid might be fine, but in my case I may have benefitted from a flush much earlier than 100K. I don't know if it would have mattered that much, but my steering rack started leaking around 94K. I ended up getting the rack replaced since I was planning to keep the car for a while. I do know that my fluid looked pretty dark and dirty at that time. In the past, I've changed the PS fluid in other cars by removing and replacing the fluid in the reservior several times, and cycling the fluid through the system. I used that method to make sure the system was never run dry. The FSM specifies Nissan PSF, but I think it also allows for a DEXRON VI ATF.

Other items to think about if you haven't already addressed them are the transmission fluid, drive belt, coolant, and transfer case fluid. The spark plug replacement interval comes up at 105K.

And if you don't want to DIY but want to save a few bucks, any competent mechanic can perform all these services for you.

Thanks for the replies. I will look into doing some of them myself. As for the fuel injection service I am skeptical on the dealer comment. I have been using the Techron Fuel Injector Cleaner in between a few months usage and it seem able to do the job.

I did all my fluid changes and serpentine belt change a while ago, but I never had the time to post a thread about it detailing my experience. If you have any questions about them let me know and I'll do my best to answer them.

NJ-Guy... do any of these fluid changes require special tools?

EXceptional wrote:NJ-Guy... do any of these fluid changes require special tools?

They don't require anything exotic, but there are tools that make it much easier to accomplish. I'm guessing that you already have some sort of drain pan from the oil changes you've done.

-For the ATF change, I think you need a 19mm socket/wrench to remove the drain plug. Since the 2008 had a dipstick, you would need a thin funnel to add ATF through that tube.

-For the Front/Rear differential and transfer case, you need a 10mm (I think that's the size) hex wrench. I have one from a socket wrench set; makes things much easier for installation and removal, especially when you need to generate extra torque if the drain and fill plugs are stubborn to break loose. You also need some method to pump the fluid in. I bought a few fluid pumps that fit quart and gallon bottles. I have multiple so that I don't need to clean them out; I don't want to mix any differential fluid with the ATF that goes in the transfer case, and vise versa.

-For the coolant the radiator drain plug can be removed with a large screwdriver. I used this spill free funnel when I refilled it: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spil ... B00A6AS6LY

-Changing the serpentine belt is much easier if you have another person on hand. Serpentine belt wrenches are available for purchase and I believe for rental as well, but I just used a 3/8 socket wrench and cheater pipe, along with a small allen wrench to pin the tensioner in place in the 'loose' mode. Took me a while though because I was working by myself.

P1800, everything you have listed I woulc categorize in the easy column.

1) Brake fluid takes a few hours with a helper or with a brake bleeder tool. Not hard, just time consuming.

2) Fuel injection service is a farce. Not needed unless you buy your gasoline in Afghanistan. If you want to do something to make you feel better, run a full bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner in a half-full gas tank.

3) As mentioned above, differential fluids will require a special socket for you to pull the fill and drain plugs off, but otherwise is easy. You'll also need a hand pump available at your LPS for around $15.

4) Power steering fluid is incredibly easy. Use the hand pump I mentioned in #3 to remove fluid from the power steering reservoir, pour in new fluid, and run the engine. Turn the wheel side to side 10 times. Remove the fluid again, refill, and repeat 3 times in total. Drive the vehicle for a week and do the same procedure one more time. You should have recovered quite a bit of the old fluid.

FYI, the brake fluid flush is usually related to water content. Brake fluid attracts water by its chemical makeup, so over time you end up with more and more. Add any oxygen to the system along with the water and you get corrosion. Not something you want in this case.

I was a total skeptic until I had an honest independent mechanic explain it to me. That is one system I'm happy to keep in tip top shape.

I have a 2008 EX 35 with coming on 60K miles. I had the rear/front differential/trans fluids changed at 35K miles back in 2013, also had fuel injection service done at that time. 2014 (43k miles)new radiator replaced with new fluid. How often should all of this be done? Any input would be appreciated. I don't take my car to the dealer, and I don't really trust the private auto repair place all that much. Any input would be appreciated.

New radiator? What for?

We just surpassed 60,000 miles too... and we don't need a new radiator.

Did you do all that work yourself?

I am surprised that they didn't recommend the Transmission flush. I had my transmission flushed at 100K mile...It did cost me $220 or the fluid and labor at the dealership. Otherwise, I did the fluid flushed for the rest of the list myself. I used mainly RedLine fluid for the Differentials and Infinity fluid for the Transfer case. As for the brakes fluid, they recommend Dot 3 fluid. They used the same Dot 3 fluid that's sold at your local Menards (FVP) stores. They sold me a small bottle for $7.95 of the brand called, FVP Heavy-Duty Brake fluid. I tracked it down and found them being sold at your local Menards for 1/2 the price.

Good luck everyone.

Jay

I plan on doing the following:

Differential fluid: i think there is 2
transfer case fluid

What liquids do you guys recommend for the job


And could I do this myself?


Im being charged $400 including transmission fluid flush and filter replacement

First post !!!!

mac here ,excellent info -NJguy and the rest ,here's some addtl. more tips :
Diff. - Pumps , I've found some sh%$&tty ones out there ,messy , so virtually all of my "fills" are done with a 3/8" length of hose attached w/springy clamps to the tapered "nose" on those quart bottles.Somebody holds this high, (like an I.V. bottle) along side of car & squeezes it in while I watch the topoff - so you may waste 3-4 oz's ,I find better control . I like Mob1 ,two viscosities for hi-mi or spirited driving/hot climate may choose heavier(90-145?? i believe). Most people will go by manual spec.
Transfer case fluid ,especially under warranty just pony up the$$ get Fact. fluid from a dealer ..AWD and "vectoring" w/active clutches is why - simple hypoid gear =may use aftermarket (Valvoline , Castrol,Mob1 OK)
Brake fluid -I flush/bleed all veh.'s twice/yr(ea. 2nd oil changes) = "stepping on a brick" = SUPER confident/safe stopping power , & fully effective ABS action in rain/snow . Tip = w/ Turkey baster(clean,new,used ONLY on Br. fluids) draw out of m/cyl.(some not accessible ie. Juke) remove enough whilst STILL covering orifices at bottom-
use your head here,common sense ,clear plastic sideview,or flashlight looking over top etc. Now fill with your favorite/recommended type (Me VALVOLINE=hi B.P. , common).Now any brake bleed becomes,if done thorougly , a FLUSH ! Crack any intermediate bleeds @ m-cyl,etc.,you may want to crack fittings @ ABS "pumps" - if accessable.
Fuel Injectors - consensus by all I agree - "mechanic" work not needed .TECHRON IS in pump gas . Always use Top Tier gas , Premium if designated and the Techron to a very near empty tank whilst driving "spirited" <10mi and<15minutes - LISTENING for any PINGING so as not to stress motor with the Injector cleaning that your doing.Fill 1/2tank , drive normal till next fill-up .
P.S. Rack - In all my experience (I have had ,"seized when cold" rack,leaky rack,Pump seal leaks etc. prior) I now"replace" P.S. fluid every 50k approx. this way : Flushing into a container , w/hose coupled to the"rack return hose ( a "low pressure" 3/8" typ.,feeding reservoir / remote can). Spec. procedure = remove w/ Turkey baster ,if possible all you can from rsvr.; now remove "rack return hose" from rsvr. and "union couple" with a length of trans grade hose (use springy clamps) to the container on floor. You try to CAP that resvr. nipple as fast as you can "at the same time" - with help ?! Now fill rsvr. with new fluid leave "room", an inch from top ( your going to "dump" the new fluid - quickly matching the loss ,entering the bucket) . Here's how you "dump" or exchange the new fluid - remove either ign. & injector fuses or ECM fuse , car will be "cranked" - no start, w/helper turning steering wheel "lock to lock" whilst new fluid is carefully added - matching what drains into pan.You may pause at either full Rt. or full L. wheel positions to assess and/or topoff .Also ,I like to start with the rack piston fully "closed" to be a "stickler" (my case is fully Left, it's a "rear tie-rod" setup). Mob1,if applicable in your case , has excellent cold - no "stiff startups" , superior "Hot" performance,doesn't seem to leak/seep. When this is done I find an exceptional improvement with that "variable rate " steering and overall improved smooth feel and accuracy -really !
p.s. CVT - any CVT , especially under warranty should only use THE correct specified (Nissan/INFINITI =NS1,2,or 3) multiple times Dealer mechanics & parts countermen LAUGH when I've "picked their brain" on ANY aftermarket's "multi-rated fluids"(ie, Casrol's NS1 + NS2 rated !!! ) - and Dealer wants you to be big $$$$ in their repair bays . So in or out of warranty ,I believe best to use THE proper "Factory" OEM CVT fluid..
Respectfull G.T. 2/18/2018

Hello All:
I have a 2008 EX35. Only 25,000 miles. Maybe I need to take a trip. Anyway, I just had the oil changed. Service dept was supposed to change the engine filter, but changed the cabin air filters in error (not a good sign as theses were replaced in 2012 - 8,000 miles ago). Dealer said they would replace engine air filter for free – they still come out ahead. Said tires did not need to be rotated (last rotation in 2012 too). I thought tires needed to be rotated every 7500 miles. Employees in service dept were very nice. Following were their recommendations:

1. $170 brake fluid flush
2. $170 power steering fluid flush
3. $170 fuel inductions - not needed based on internet search?
4. $395 drive belt replacement - cracked & age per service dept
5. $170 differential service
6. $269 Automatic transmission service
7. replace tires due to age - same tires as when I bought car - tread is fine.

Any recommendations with regard to needed maintenance would be helpful. None of the above have been done since I purchased car in 2008. Also, I thought spark plugs required replacement after 84 months. Dealer will handle, as I am not able. Thanks.

mac, it's a good practice if you can "properly" use a Turkey-Baster and draw out the old brown BRAKE FLUID - just down to where it STILL covers orifices (like leave 1" in a 2 1/2" deep Rsvr.)Now you add / topoff fresh fluid - it will infiltrate through the system to a good degree and help to NOW give say a 70% introduction , and even helps when you do decide for the "shop" to do full bleed/flush by having a higher concentration of NEW fluid in between your brake flushes!

TD wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 26, 2018 7:35 pm

Hello All:
I have a 2008 EX35. Only 25,000 miles. Maybe I need to take a trip. Anyway, I just had the oil changed. Service dept was supposed to change the engine filter, but changed the cabin air filters in error (not a good sign as theses were replaced in 2012 - 8,000 miles ago). Dealer said they would replace engine air filter for free – they still come out ahead. Said tires did not need to be rotated (last rotation in 2012 too). I thought tires needed to be rotated every 7500 miles. Employees in service dept were very nice. Following were their recommendations:

1. $170 brake fluid flush
2. $170 power steering fluid flush
3. $170 fuel inductions - not needed based on internet search?
4. $395 drive belt replacement - cracked & age per service dept
5. $170 differential service
6. $269 Automatic transmission service
7. replace tires due to age - same tires as when I bought car - tread is fine.

Any recommendations with regard to needed maintenance would be helpful. None of the above have been done since I purchased car in 2008. Also, I thought spark plugs required replacement after 84 months. Dealer will handle, as I am not able. Thanks.

Man, seems like you don't drive the car at all . It appears that you just do mostly short trips, I kind of wonder what your drives are typically like. It also seems like either you live in an area where the cost of doing business is high, or your dealer's prices are quite inflated.

1. I'd recommend the brake fluid flush, especially if it hadn't been done at any time over the car's life. Brake fluid is one of the few fluids that are replaced in time intervals instead of mileage intervals. I think my last brake flush cost $120 or so.

2. Not sure which way to go for the power steering flush. If you do lots of low speed driving in a hot climate, then yeah, maybe it wouldn't be a bad idea to change it out.

3. You're right, it's not really needed; especially at that price.

4. I'd be a rich man if I was able to collect ~$400 for a serpentine belt change. I don't recall the cost of the part itself, but I thought it was $80 on the upper end dealership retail price. My dealership charges around $140 in total for a drive belt replacement. I know you're not planning to DIY the maintenance, but the OEM belt itself can be found online for around $40. I know it took me a bit of effort to get it done, but I don't think I spent more than 20 min changing it.
Anyway, you should still get the drive belt changed, as rubber components do degrade with age. I would just see if they could come down on the price for this service.

5. & 6. Both of these fluids (along with the transfer case fluid if you have AWD) require periodic inspection for fluid condition. Infiniti calls for replacement if they appear to be in questionable to poor condition. Unlike engine oil, these fluids do not get diluted with gasoline and are not exposed to the byproducts of combustion. It's your call here, as the car is 10 years old. If you had to prioritize, do the transmission fluid before the differential fluid.

I'm curious as to what the $269 ATF service gets you. I'm guessing that it's only a fluid drain and fill of maybe 3.7 quarts, which is about a third of the fluid in the transmission. The transmission takes about 11 quarts in total, so a complete fluid flush requires 11-12 quarts of new fluid. $269 does seem a bit high if they're only performing a drain and fill and using 4 quart bottles of ATF. My dealership did charge around $160 for an ATF drain and fill service. Should you choose to get the ATF changed, again, I'd try to negoitate the price down a bit.

$170 for changing the front and rear (for AWD) differential fluid is a decent price. $170 for changing the fluid in a single differential (RWD) is quite high to me. My local dealer charges I think around $80 per differential.

7. Like the drive belt, the rubber compound in your tires has probably degraded. The tire industry does recommend replacing tires at the 10 year mark regardless of tread depth. Old tires are more prone to blowouts and other failures. So yeah, get new tires when you have the chance; sooner if you plan on doing any highway driving or taking longer trips in the near future.They probably did not recommend a rotation this time around because you should be replacing the tires anyway.

Aside from the brake fluid, given the age and mileage of your car I think I would pay a bit more attention to the rubber components (belt, tires, hoses) more so than the other fluids. I'm surprised that they did not mention the anti-freeze/coolant as well.

If you don't mind paying their quoted prices, I'd expect to be treated like a king. I'd also try to take advantage of any 'complimentary' goods or services they provide (I've always liked getting a loaner vehcile). Maybe you can get some freebies thrown in as well, like wiper blades, floor mats, or something like a full detailing.

If you have the time, don't mind the effort, and would prefer to cut down on the cost of these services, find a good mechanic in the area to do them. for your 2008 model, nothing you listed here requires any type of dealer specific equipment or knowledge.

NJGuy, thank you very much for the informative reply. Sorry for my belated post. I could not login – technical difficulties. (I changed my old email address which was no longer valid. Nicoclub.com would not let me login. Administrator subsequently fixed the issue. My old email address domain name was sold, so I had to change all my email addresses – real pain).

I live in Southern California. Originally from your Garden State. I drive locally. I called another dealer and received lower prices as noted below. I can call some more dealers or a local mechanic. Maybe another inspection?

1. $100 Brake Fluid Flush ($70 lower) – will service
2. $100 Power Steering Fluid ($70 lower) – will service
3. Pass
4. $230 Drive Belts ($165 lower) – will service
5. $170 Differential – marked ok AND requires replacement ?? on Multi Point Inspection – probably service – I have RWD
6. $270 Automatic Transmission Service – marked did not inspect –probably service
7. Tires (tread is 4 and 5) – will replace. Do you recommend any tires? I saw your detailed post on the Michelin Priamcy MXV4 tires. I would like tires that are good in wet weather, even though So Cal.
8. $150 Coolant – Multi Point Inspection stated OK
9. Cooling System Hoses & Heater A/C Hoses – Multi Point Inspection stated OK – but I understand your concern for rubber components

I did replace the wiper blades on the last visit and received a loaner car. My concern is whether the work is completed. I can check the color of the oil and tire condition, but I am clueless on the rest. I took an auto class when I was younger, but when the class went outside to the cars, I started making out with a female student. Neither of us could show our faces again as embarrassment set in.

Hello

SOrry ti highjack the thread but perhaps this will be useful. I am usually quite handy with cars; I have a AWD and getting ready to do diff and transfer case fluid change.

But I am confused as to the 1) location of, and 2) difference between the differential and the 2 transfer cases. My confusion stems from the fact that I thought the rear had simply a transfer case, but it seems it has both a differential and a transfer case. Is this correct? As they seem to require two different fluid types (Diff vs. transfer cases) - I don't want to make an error!

Does someone has a picture of the underside of the EX that could point me to where the rear diff and transfer case are located on an AWD EX35? I think I know where the front transfer case is, but a picture of that too would be useful!

Thanks a million!

Ice

TD wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 29, 2018 12:18 am

7. Tires (tread is 4 and 5) – will replace. Do you recommend any tires? I saw your detailed post on the Michelin Priamcy MXV4 tires. I would like tires that are good in wet weather, even though So Cal.

Michelins are usually a safe bet for most drivers, especially those who don't mind paying the price premium usually associated with them. Not sure what wheel size you have, but I don't think the Primacy MXV4 is made anymore in the OEM tire size for the EX. Michelin does have a few newer models that you can choose from depending on what you're looking for. Another tire that seems to be popular is the Pirelli Cinturato P7 All Season Plus. The last set I bought were the Continental True Contact, which replaced the Primacy MXV4s.

Given that you live in SoCal and that you don't put on a lot of mileage on your car, a more performance oriented tire might be better suited for you. The dry and wet traction would be better than a Touring/Grand Touring type tire, and you wouldn't really need to worry about any type of winter traction. While a more performance oriented tire would wear out more quickly, you'd still probably end up replacing them again due to age as opposed to wear.

Check out the big replacement tire thread for a few ideas:
ex35-replacement-tires-t562094.html

TD wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 29, 2018 12:18 am

I did replace the wiper blades on the last visit and received a loaner car. My concern is whether the work is completed. I can check the color of the oil and tire condition, but I am clueless on the rest. I took an auto class when I was younger, but when the class went outside to the cars, I started making out with a female student. Neither of us could show our faces again as embarrassment set in.

Don't worry, we don't judge here; we're just here to help.

CDNicecube wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 29, 2018 8:44 am

Hello

SOrry ti highjack the thread but perhaps this will be useful. I am usually quite handy with cars; I have a AWD and getting ready to do diff and transfer case fluid change.

But I am confused as to the 1) location of, and 2) difference between the differential and the 2 transfer cases. My confusion stems from the fact that I thought the rear had simply a transfer case, but it seems it has both a differential and a transfer case. Is this correct? As they seem to require two different fluid types (Diff vs. transfer cases) - I don't want to make an error!

Does someone has a picture of the underside of the EX that could point me to where the rear diff and transfer case are located on an AWD EX35? I think I know where the front transfer case is, but a picture of that too would be useful!

Thanks a million!

Ice

I had posted a photo of the transfer case a while back, but photobucket doesn't want to play nice anymore.

Anyway, the AWD model has the front diff, rear diff, and transfer case.

If I remember correctly, the front diff is on the passenger side of the car, located across from the oil filter. You might want to be careful when loosening the drain bolt because there looks to be an oil pressure switch and an A/C refrigerant line nearby.

The rear diff is easy to find. It's centered between the back wheels. I use that as my jacking point in the rear. Both the front and rear diff take 80W-90 GL5 gear lube. You could also go with a synthetic 75W-90 if you wanted to.

The transfer case is more towards the middle of the car. It's a bit behind the transmission and on the passenger side. I'm pretty sure the transfer case takes Nissan Matic-S fluid.

NJGuy wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 29, 2018 10:42 am

I had posted a photo of the transfer case a while back, but photobucket doesn't want to play nice anymore.

Anyway, the AWD model has the front diff, rear diff, and transfer case.

If I remember correctly, the front diff is on the passenger side of the car, located across from the oil filter. You might want to be careful when loosening the drain bolt because there looks to be an oil pressure switch and an A/C refrigerant line nearby.

The rear diff is easy to find. It's centered between the back wheels. I use that as my jacking point in the rear. Both the front and rear diff take 80W-90 GL5 gear lube. You could also go with a synthetic 75W-90 if you wanted to.

The transfer case is more towards the middle of the car. It's a bit behind the transmission and on the passenger side. I'm pretty sure the transfer case takes Nissan Matic-S fluid.
[/quote]

Great! Very useful. How much fluid do the TCs and Dif each take? More or less?

CDNicecube wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 29, 2018 7:49 pm

Great! Very useful. How much fluid do the TCs and Dif each take? More or less?

According to the FSM:

Front Differential: 0.65 L 80W-90 GL5
Rear Differential: 1.40 L 80W-90 GL5
Transfer Case: 1.25 L Matic J or Matic S

When I did these fluid changes, I think I actually filled them with these approximate amounts:

Front: 2/3 qt (0.63 L)
Rear: a little less than 1.5 qt (1.41 L)
Transfer: a hair over 1 qt. (0.94 L)

A couple of notes:
1. I don't really have any fears running carefully selected aftermarket fluids in my cars. So I used Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc for my transfer case and some WalMart SuperTech 75W-90 semi-synthetic gear lube for the front and rear differentials.

2. The drain and fill plug washers for the front and rear differentials are the same. The Nissan part number I used was 11026-4N200; not sure if the number is different in Canada.

3. My transfer case drain plug did not have a washer. Instead, I applied an RTV sealant on the threads. Infiniti recommends Nissan RTV 99998-50506 or Permatex Ultra Grey 82194. I used Permatex Ultra Grey 22074 for the RTV and Nissan part number 31506-2W510 for the fill plug washer. Be sure to clean off any old RTV on the drain plug.

Be sure to double check the MA pdf file of FSM posted here on NicoClub. It does have a few illustrations and should help a bit. You probably already know this, but always loosen the fill bolts first.

NJGuy wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 29, 2018 9:47 am

TD wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 29, 2018 12:18 am

7. Tires (tread is 4 and 5) – will replace. Do you recommend any tires? I saw your detailed post on the Michelin Priamcy MXV4 tires. I would like tires that are good in wet weather, even though So Cal.

Michelins are usually a safe bet for most drivers, especially those who don't mind paying the price premium usually associated with them. Not sure what wheel size you have, but I don't think the Primacy MXV4 is made anymore in the OEM tire size for the EX. Michelin does have a few newer models that you can choose from depending on what you're looking for. Another tire that seems to be popular is the Pirelli Cinturato P7 All Season Plus. The last set I bought were the Continental True Contact, which replaced the Primacy MXV4s.

Given that you live in SoCal and that you don't put on a lot of mileage on your car, a more performance oriented tire might be better suited for you. The dry and wet traction would be better than a Touring/Grand Touring type tire, and you wouldn't really need to worry about any type of winter traction. While a more performance oriented tire would wear out more quickly, you'd still probably end up replacing them again due to age as opposed to wear.

Check out the big replacement tire thread for a few ideas:
ex35-replacement-tires-t562094.html

NJGuy, thanks. Great thread on tires.

Thank you all!

NJGuy (and others)

So today, I did a fluid change for the rear and front Differentials. For the rear, did any of you pumped the fresh fluid until it poured out the fill hole, or did you put in only the amount you took out? You see, I took out about 2L (combined, front and back diff), but when I pumped fresh fluid in the rear, I decided to stop filling when about 1.4L was in, as I was worried to overfilled. I did not wait until it poured out the full hole. For those who changed the rear and front diff, did you fill it until it poured out? I thought that was the standard practice (to stop pouring when it runs out the fill hole), but I am also worried about overfilling.

Related concern:
The diff were changed 4 years ago at the dealership, and given only a little less of 2L came out in total today (front and rear), I am not certain I can trust the previous drain to have put back in exactly the righ amount.

Thanks

mac, yeah most diffs , with side plug to fill - and bottom plug to drain are sp'osed to be filled up till that side hole "oozzes" fluid -BUT check your Manual some vehicles on this Planet Earth may have like a sight glass You never know Doubt it though.

CDNicecube wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 01, 2018 11:56 am

NJGuy (and others)

So today, I did a fluid change for the rear and front Differentials. For the rear, did any of you pumped the fresh fluid until it poured out the fill hole, or did you put in only the amount you took out? You see, I took out about 2L (combined, front and back diff), but when I pumped fresh fluid in the rear, I decided to stop filling when about 1.4L was in, as I was worried to overfilled. I did not wait until it poured out the full hole. For those who changed the rear and front diff, did you fill it until it poured out? I thought that was the standard practice (to stop pouring when it runs out the fill hole), but I am also worried about overfilling.

Related concern:
The diff were changed 4 years ago at the dealership, and given only a little less of 2L came out in total today (front and rear), I am not certain I can trust the previous drain to have put back in exactly the righ amount.

Thanks

You fill it up until you see the oil coming out from the hole. That’s the reason why that hole is position at the height to the max fill line. Thus, when you have to check for oil level, you open the fill hole and stick a finger see if the oil level is low.

Keep in mind that the car should be more or less level when refilling those fluids. If either the front or rear end is lifted and the other end is on the ground, it will affect the amount of fluid you'd be able to put in.

I have an EZ Lift that lift all 4 wheels at once. So the car was quite level, but the rear might have been 1 inch higher than the front. Anyway, I finally added enough yesterday in the read diff that the fluid oozed out. Good, but I am certain I put in *at least* 1.60L in the back diff, and another 0.7+L in the front diff but, up front, it never leaked out. My third bottle of 80w80 GL5 is almost empty.

I think I am fine but will reopen the front next weekend to add a little more. Thanks all

Ice

PS: The odd thing is that less than 2L came out (combined), which seems to indicate it was not at the proper level to begin with.