Fluid Change

[604-Allstar]

Hello,

I'm looking to change a number of the fluid in my QX4 next week and need to order the right amount of fluid and was looking for some help. The 4 wheel drive on my car has the dial that allows you to select 2X2 ONLY, 4AUTO, 4HI and 4LO, does that mean I have the Part Time 4WD or All-Mode?

Power Steering - Royal Purple Max ATF - anyone have a suggestion on how much i will need?
Automatic Transmission - Royal Purple Max ATF - 5Litres
Transfer Case - Royal Purple Max ATF - anyone have a suggestion on how much i will need?

How much Royal Purple Max ATF should I order?

Front Diff - Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-90 - 3 litres?
Read Diff - Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-90 - 2 Litres?

will a total of 5L of Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-90 fluid be enough?

Besides the the auto transmission gasket and strainer kit is there any other parts I should get before I start to change the fluids?

Cheers

[atraudes]

Check out the Maintenance section of the FSM, on page MA-11. That'll give you an idea of the fluid type and capacity. Based on the fact that they only reference the All-Mode transfer case there, I'm going to assume that's the type we have.

Yes, it looks like 5L of differential fluid should be plenty, though I'd buy an extra to be safe. I want to say I ended up needing it, but I can't recall now...You can always return extras if they're not needed.

As for the others, it really depends on the method you use. I'll tell you what I did and what I used.

If you're doing a simple drain and fill on the transmission, you won't need as much as they specify. For the steering, I siphoned out of the reservoir, refilled, drove it for a day, and repeated a number of times until it didn't smell burnt. When I did the steering and a drain and refill of the transmission and transfer case, I think I used 8 quarts altogether.

Sorry, I wish I had more concrete answers

[604-Allstar]

If I plan on dropping the pan and changing the filter in the pan is that considered a "simple drain and fill" transmission fluid change?

[atraudes]

Yessir, though I'd propose that you don't need to change the filter. It's more of a rock-catcher than a filter so changing it doesn't buy you anything. On the other hand, dropping the pan allows you to find debris that could be clues to later problems.

Actually, on the transmission filter note (while I'm thinking about it), a number of members here will recommend that you use a Magnefine filter on the cooler return line. That will actually filter out the fine particles that can cause harm (and has a built-in magnet). Using it for the power steering fluid is also a good idea!

[rgk]

Unless your pan is leaking, don't bother dropping it. Drain your transmission fluid hoses, and drain the pan. Total fluid will be under five quarts - probably about 4.25.

Capacity for the 'auto' transfer case (the ATX14A) is listed at 3-1/8 quarts, but personally the fluid began leaking out at less than that for me.

Fill it until the fluid drips out of the fill hole, drive it in 2wd, repeat, drive it in auto, repeat, drive it in 4hi, repeat, drive it in 2wd, repeat, drive it in auto., and repeat until it drips from the first crack of the fill plug. Don't drive it in 2lo, because that will heat up and expand the fluid too quickly.

In this way I put about 2.5 quarts into the case. I assume there is always some fluid left in the case, even with the drain plug removed.

[Hawairish]

You have the "all-mode" system, btw.

And 5L for the front and rear diffs is enough. The front will take about 2L, the rear about 2.5L. Shouldn't need any extra. If you have the LSD, just make sure the RP is suitable for it (I'd pretty sure it is).

There shouldn't be a need to put the ATX14A through any driving pattern. Filling to the fill hole while parked on a level surface should sufficient. Does the FSM specify some pattern?

[rgk]

I'm just speaking from experience regarding the driving pattern. Without it, the case only took about 1.5 qts.

[604-Allstar]

Thanks for answering all my questions and the advice.

My rear diff. looks like it has a little leak so I was planing on opening the case and replacing the sealant. Is there anything else I need besides purchasing some RTV- high temp sealant? is it recommended to replace any of the drainage or fill bolts when doing a fluid change?

[Hawairish]

Thanks for answering all my questions and the advice.

My rear diff. looks like it has a little leak so I was planing on opening the case and replacing the sealant. Is there anything else I need besides purchasing some RTV- high temp sealant? is it recommended to replace any of the drainage or fill bolts when doing a fluid change?

I usually take some degreaser and a brass brush to the threads to clean out dirt and grime so it doesn't damage the threads or create a new leak.

Keep in mind, though, resealing the diff requires disconnecting the brake lines at the wheel hubs, unbolting the parking brake cables up the lower trailing arms, pulling the axles out a few inches, disconnecting the driveshaft, and pulling the third member (heavy).

...before doing any of that, I'd just clean the grease off the diff and axle and give the 11 bolts around the diff a snugging, then see if your leak returns after a few days. I'd do this before filling replacing any fluids, otherwise you'll be wasting the fluid.

[604-Allstar]

Thanks for answering all my questions and the advice.

My rear diff. looks like it has a little leak so I was planing on opening the case and replacing the sealant. Is there anything else I need besides purchasing some RTV- high temp sealant? is it recommended to replace any of the drainage or fill bolts when doing a fluid change?

I usually take some degreaser and a brass brush to the threads to clean out dirt and grime so it doesn't damage the threads or create a new leak.

Keep in mind, though, resealing the diff requires disconnecting the brake lines at the wheel hubs, unbolting the parking brake cables up the lower trailing arms, pulling the axles out a few inches, disconnecting the driveshaft, and pulling the third member (heavy).

...before doing any of that, I'd just clean the grease off the diff and axle and give the 11 bolts around the diff a snugging, then see if your leak returns after a few days. I'd do this before filling replacing any fluids, otherwise you'll be wasting the fluid.

Definitely didn't realise that there was so much work to resealing the diff....

I was planning to just pop the back diff. cover off, clean it up with some degreaser, put a new bead of RTV on the cover and then bolt it back on. That's no possible??

[Hawairish]

Definitely didn't realise that there was so much work to resealing the diff....

I was planning to just pop the back diff. cover off, clean it up with some degreaser, put a new bead of RTV on the cover and then bolt it back on. That's no possible??

Nope...you don't have a removable diff cover.

[604-Allstar]

Well that's embarrassing.... looks like the leak is coming from the fill bolt, guess that makes the job easier...

[Hawairish]

Haha, yes much easier. As above, give the plug a cleaning when you get a chance. The FSM has a tightening spec, too. While at it, peek into the fill hole...the fluid level should be near the bottom of the hole.

[attofarad]

Well that's embarrassing.... looks like the leak is coming from the fill bolt, guess that makes the job easier...

Not sure where I got this, but I use Permatex Ultra Grey RTV on the drain/fill plugs on the differentials and transfer case. Just on the last 3 threads that go in. When I do it again, I have to be careful cleaning the small amount of selant on hole threads, and have to clean a substantial amount from the plug threads . Never had a leak -- previous work by a mechanic had small leaks.