Float, DEE, HELP!!!

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
ca18det240hatch
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 2:12 pm

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Hey, im in the process of building my ca18det...finally.

so i was assembling the engine, and i got the crank in, plastiguaged it...tolerances are excellent. So, i take it apart, put assembly lube on drop in the crank, and retorque it to 40ft/lb which is what the manual says.

The motor spins...but its not zero effort. At 20 ft/lb which i used as my first stage of torqueing, i could spin it wich such ease it would almost keep going...but at 40....its 10% harder to spin...

any pointers or ideas. Thank you guys.



dvd
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this is without the pistons right? Try taking all the caps out and doing it again, make sure you have everything in order.

boost_boy
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ca18det240hatch wrote:Hey, im in the process of building my ca18det...finally.

so i was assembling the engine, and i got the crank in, plastiguaged it...tolerances are excellent. So, i take it apart, put assembly lube on drop in the crank, and retorque it to 40ft/lb which is what the manual says.

The motor spins...but its not zero effort. At 20 ft/lb which i used as my first stage of torqueing, i could spin it wich such ease it would almost keep going...but at 40....its 10% harder to spin...

any pointers or ideas. Thank you guys.
If your engine is completely assembled, then it's okay for it to be a tad-bit resitant. If you're just referring to your bottom end, I need to know what all you assembled. I don't see a major problem so far, but tell as much as you can about your engine and what you already assembled.

Dee

ca18det240hatch
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Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 2:12 pm

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actually now that the bottom end is totally assembled and torqued, pistons are in, everything in that area is done. I can rotate it with a wrench with little resistance so i think everything is ok.

thank you....how much resistance should you have with a fully assembled bottom end ie. mains torqued, pistons in, rod caps torqued.

thanks

boost_boy
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You should be alright. Compression strokes, new parts, not enough enough all cause the engine to be fairly tough to turn. But as long as it rotates, you should be okay.

Dee

ca18det240hatch
Posts: 325
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Well, its all assembled besides the intake manifold and on.

timing is done, pretty damn easy on these (=

now, another question. for those of you that have gone to aftermarket oil pressure guages, did you just tap the hole for the standard fitting or did you get an adaptor.

as the engine sits, i can rotate it with a wrench on the main pulley, with pretty little effort. hopefully everything is ok....


Chris859
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Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 10:09 pm
Location: Pinetop, Az

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It will be relatively hard to turn when freshly built(true of any engine)... And it will also be very hard to turn if you went crazy with the assembly lube on the bearings during assembly(too much assembly lube can be just as bad as not using enough).

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float_6969
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Sorry I'm in on this late, but everything previously stated is correct. You'll be fine, keep us updated!

ca18det240hatch
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so how bad would it be if i used too much assembly lube? it turns pretty nice now that its seeen a few revolutions.

gonna drop it in next weekend....got a new chassis too, as mine is...well....multicolored and dented. Also pretty happy about the rims i just picked up....Advan Super Racing

Ill have pictures of the engine up tonite...just gotta take some.

ill keep you posted.....float...i know how you love pictures

missionsix43
Posts: 168
Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2006 12:44 pm
Car: 1989 240sx hatch ca18det

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ca18det240hatch wrote:now, another question. for those of you that have gone to aftermarket oil pressure guages, did you just tap the hole for the standard fitting or did you get an adaptor.
Don't tap it, get a 1/8 BSPT to 1/8NPT adapter. You can them at http://www.mcmaster.com

As for the motor, it should be fairly easy to turn, but NOT easy to enough to turn where it would keep moving at ALL once you stop putting force on it.

And Dee, compression has nothing to do with it when the head is off.

ca18det240hatch
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yep thats pretty much how it is, everything moves nice and smoothe, cams and bottom end move without striking eachother, so im sure my timing is correct

can hear compression coming out of the plug holes when i spin it. Sounds really nice. The only thing that worries me is that i clearanced my rings with a file, since i didnt have a proper ring grinder....eh...should be ok lol

Chris859
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Yeah, you should be fine... You set the end gap on your rings with a file?! Not the way I would do it, I would drop the $20 on the right tool for it. While not the best way, as long as its all in spec you should be fine...

boost_boy
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missionsix43 wrote:
And Dee, compression has nothing to do with it when the head is off.
I don't need you to tell me that . It was an addition to my previous post explaining to him basically what else can cause an engine to be sluggish when rotated, so if when he put on his head and had the same issues, voila. If you like trying to down-play me when I post about something go right ahead, but it was a reason why he asked the people he asked and not you for this information. So please, get a life and stop trying to be wise because your attempts are boring yet stupid and childish and are not in any way useful nor helpful to the atmosphere of the CA forum or NICO.

I hope you have another forum on the web that you can go piss in because I personally am sick of you being disrespectful in this one.

Dee

ca18det240hatch
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Theres the random pics for now

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float_6969
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Looking good!

ca18det240hatch
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thank you. And i just figured something else out...a rb20 alternator will fit no problem, u just gotta get a smaller belt, and you lose the fancy adjustor in trade for a prybar hehehe, but it works...the bolt that holds the tension just goes in from the opposite side..but other than that its a direct bolton.


good morning
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boost_boy wrote: I don't need you to tell me that . It was an addition to my previous post explaining to him basically what else can cause an engine to be sluggish when rotated, so if when he put on his head and had the same issues, voila. If you like trying to down-play me when I post about something go right ahead, but it was a reason why he asked the people he asked and not you for this information. So please, get a life and stop trying to be wise because your attempts are boring yet stupid and childish and are not in any way useful nor helpful to the atmosphere of the CA forum or NICO.

I hope you have another forum on the web that you can go piss in because I personally am sick of you being disrespectful in this one.

Dee
I do not see what the big deal is. He was right about pointing out the compression stroke has nothing to do with anything if the head is off.

Calm down, everyone is wrong at some point.

To answer the OP question a bit more. Clearance (bearings, piston) has a lot to do with how the motor turns. If it does not bind, you are ok. It is a good thing to spin the motor after each part you install (mains, rods, pistons, etc).

ca18det240hatch
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 2:12 pm

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one more question......

is 40 ft/lb the final torque spec for the main caps? thats what the fsm says, but i wanted to make sure im reading the right thing.



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