I had a real problem at the drag strip with shifting from 2nd gear to 3rd gear. If I drove normal no problems but when WOT it wanted to go to 5th gear and grind. The problem was so bad I could never post my times because I could never get it in 3rd gear with out a fight. The other problem I had was oil leaking from the pan and the bung. So last month I did the dreaded removal of the oil pan and motor mounts. This time I followed the FMU and droped the crossmember and front end. The motor mount on the drivers side fell and missed my head. This method was easy access to the oil pan and motor mounts. Piece of cake to swap it out. It took a little longer getting it back together and you do have to get a alignment. That said I did a few test runs and now 2nd to 3rd gear is smooth. I open this thread because I have read that other people have this problem as well. The funny thing I didn`t start having this problem until I started boosting.
Also like to make a note that the Earl fittings -10AN for the drain is working great!
In celebration of fixing these problems I have ordered a used JWT ECU 72lbs program and Z32 MAF. The injectors are going to come from http://www.deatschwerks.com I won`t have to replace the fuel rail or install resistors!
Fixed 3rd Gear
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DammitBobby
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Florida240sx
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2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5 - Location: DeLand FL
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Checkered-Member
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2003 Audi A6 2.7T (stock) - Contact:
Re: (Florida240sx)
Something to do with the alignment of the engine that was off and wouldn’t let the transmission go into 3rd????Florida240sx wrote:Did I miss somethign?How does oil pan have to do with your 3rd gear?Anywayz I took off my sway bar unbolted motor mounts and jacked up the engine.To remove my oil pan.
rseabrooke, can you clarify this
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DammitBobby
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Re: (Checkered-Member)
No not alignment. It has to do with the engine rotating to the right under boost. When I shift from 2nd to 3rd the engine is rotating to the right and I am trying to shift from left to right. The motor mount was broke on the drivers side causing it to lift up and twist to the right. Never had a problem from 1st to 2nd or 3rd to 4th. When I had the clutch replaced over a year ago the transmission mount was broke as well. If you have an S13 and want to convert it to a KAT I really think you should replace the motor mounts. Mine were dry rotted and I would think that most S13`s being that they are over 13 years old would be also. I even replaced my Shifter with B&M short shifter with the same results. It end up being bad motor mounts.
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DammitBobby
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Re: (WDRacing)
That is news to me! I am hoping the stageII will get me in the 13`s or lower. I probably look into some type of injection water or alcohol.
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Checkered-Member
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2003 Audi A6 2.7T (stock) - Contact:
Re: (WDRacing)
Interesting view you have.WDRacing wrote:Speaking of sway bars in the front...the next time you guys run the 1/4, disconnect or remove your front sway bar. You'll net a quicker 60ft do to the weight transfer to the rear wheels. It's an older domestic trick, but it works.
WD
You can’t do that daily, so your car will actually be slower on the street, why would you care for a .1 of a second on a track (I don’t see any of us professionally drag) when it’s not what the car actually runs day to day.
My view -> school the poor bastard that paid 50K for a sports car.