Fix Thread turned into Re-build thread! (built rb25 neo)

[sickness14]

Nah, it won't hit the valve cover, but it's close. Keep in mind I've got the larger RB26 VC's, and I can clear them (just). I got my turbo and a couple other things from the wonderful free shipping company that is the USAF though, so if you want to test it, you are more then welcome like I said. I've even got the flange and half a dump pipe (on the way still) so you can mock it all up when you get the block in.

Those ports look decent. Like I said, it's worth an afternoon with a die grinder to port match them, and I'd do the inside of the collector at the wastegate runners too and open them up as much as possible. I can't see from the pics, but there was a lot of extra metal on mine that I could chew on. Heavy SOB though compared to the OBX s***, eh?

O yeah, one thing I just remembered about the HX40's, somebody had one that was wastegated like Goldfarb has and they had to chew on the housing a bit with the grinder to make it clear the valve cover, so skip that one like we mentioned. Did they say what size compressor though?

sweet, yeah the inside of the collector looks a little rough but ill try and smooth it out. nice that your parts are here! ill give you a call sometime and talk to you about it. the manifold is definitely heavier than the other one i had. I want rb26 valve covers too !!! ugh. how can i source them? im not sure about the hx40 from goldfarb i havent talked to linda again since yesterday.

Hey, the oil feed at the front of the head. Is it supposed to be blanked off on Neo heads? Shouldn't there be a hole there? Machine work on the head looks good though. Nice cams BTW

That one stud is going to be a pain in the a**, I remember that. Best way is to do that one first and NOT put the manifold flush against the head at first, then do the rest.

neither one of my heads i got from you have the oil feed at the front of the head for some reason. i still have not identified the head in the pictures... could it be RB20? i dont get it... yeah dude paper cams are the best. straight from korea, they add extra powa. the manifold came with a shortened stud to use in that tight area of the manifold so all should be well.

ttyl man

[l0nestar]

mmm. progress. :pop:

[Cjmartz2k]

Ryan, your head is here man! I know your at SEMA ya lucky SOB so you won't be on AIM for me to tell you.

John- did the original head you had that got trashed have the oil feed blocked off? Maybe it's a Neo thing? Even the n/a non-neo RB25 heads I've seen have the hole there. I'm still perplexed about that other head. I looked at the dude's car that it came out of and the build plate said it was an RB25de originally. The only thing I can think of is somebody swapped it at some point and dressed it up to look like a 25, but that seems REALLY unlikely.

[l0nestar]

Chris,

Actually, I am home. Had to come home early. Glad the rest of my stuff is there. TXT or Aim me.

Sorry to clutter / go OT John!

[sickness14]

hey chris, im having a hard time finding an HX40. this one on ebay looks really promising though.. its got the billet wheel, 7 blades, t4 divided and i think its the Pro version you were talking about... please let me know if this is the one to get and ill "buy it now" asap. Thanks again.

-John.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors..._1182

[Cjmartz2k]

It looks like the perfect turbo from the add, but they don't make holset's with .84 a/r housings. They all come in cm2--like a 19cm or 16cm. Now he could be converting it to the commonly known garret measurement, and my best guess for the 19cm housing is around a .8x something a/r, so maybe that's it. i would message him and ask him if he can look inside the ex housing and tell you the number, but if it's T4, it's probably 19cm and thus probably awesome for you. I'd get it if it's in good shape and under $400 shipped.

[sickness14]

cool i bid on it

and also bought engine gasket kit from ricky which is on the way. and also bought WG001B.1 Synapse 40mm Turbo Wastegate -W/ Flanges which is on the way

1 day left , 20 hrs. lets see what happens with this turbo.

i emailed him as well, and this was his reply:

"There will be plenty bids, lots of watchers, and this is the sough after 7 blade billet wheel. Of course it's been rebuilt properely, everythig is brand new minus the bearig housing and turbine housig which are reman. The turbine housing is a divided inlet t4 .85 Garret unit which was machined to accept the hx40 turbo. I was going to use this on my rb26 for some serious power but decided to keep the motor stock for now, can't commit to a project like this. Good luck!!!!"

sounds like a winner.

now i just need the twin plate clutch, 800cc injectors & head gasket. and the man power to slap it together and then a nice tune.

the shop just has to do the machine work on the head, assemble the bottom end, figure out what size head gasket i need to order, and then i should be in business. ahhh the excitement.

I was reading full race's website and they mentioned something about how the "Runner geometry is adjusted accordingly for the known tendency of RB engines to run slightly lean in cyl #6." anyone know if ill have this problem with the s-tec manifold?

also, their manifolds are flanged for two 44mm wastegates, which ill be using two 40mm wastegates. this should work perfect. T4 twin wastegates!? this is like a dream come true. ive always wanted to be able to say "im running an hx40 pro with a T4 divided manifold and twin wastegates on my RB25"... i know , im lame.

later kids.

Modified by sickness14 at 5:57 PM 11/10/2009
Modified by sickness14 at 5:57 PM 11/10/2009

[Cjmartz2k]

s*** yeah, that turbo sounds perfect then--if the garret housing swap works well. I've heard of the DSM guys doing it before with no problems, so I'm sure it's fine.

#6 runs lean on RB26's because of the factory intake manifold design and it has nothing to do with exhaust. It's just them selling manifolds--and they sell very nice ones. I believe their twin gates are v-band flanged. For sure nice mani's, but I don't have $2k LOL. A number of companies put out "fixes" for the "number 6 runs lean problem". Intake mani's, exhaust mani's, coolant mods, etc. To be honest, I don't think there is much of a problem. I ran a stock 26 intake and an Stec mani for 2 years with the HX40 and no problems. When we took apart me motor, all the pistons looked just fine, including #6.

[sickness14]

s*** yeah, that turbo sounds perfect then--if the garret housing swap works well. I've heard of the DSM guys doing it before with no problems, so I'm sure it's fine.

#6 runs lean on RB26's because of the factory intake manifold design and it has nothing to do with exhaust. It's just them selling manifolds--and they sell very nice ones. I believe their twin gates are v-band flanged. For sure nice mani's, but I don't have $2k LOL. A number of companies put out "fixes" for the "number 6 runs lean problem". Intake mani's, exhaust mani's, coolant mods, etc. To be honest, I don't think there is much of a problem. I ran a stock 26 intake and an Stec mani for 2 years with the HX40 and no problems. When we took apart me motor, all the pistons looked just fine, including #6.

HELL YEAH. dude i want it. its got like 6 hrs left on the ebay bid and im still winning!!!

PS: great news. just got an email from the shop thats working on my car

Originally Posted by Kyle@PCM View PostHey John

head has been dissasembled and is at the machine shop for repair on the 4 valves where it was damaged. Eric says the head should be good other than that one trouble spot. Minor resurfacing and checking valves for leakage. Talk to you soon

YESSSSS!!!

[sickness14]

Hey. Guys I need some help. The machine shop mixed up the valve springs and they need to know which color springs go on the intake and what springs go on the exhaust. They're painted two different colors but I can't remember what colors they areIf someone could get back to me ASAP by replying to this thread I would really appreciate it. As soon as I let the shop know what color is which they can finish putting the head together.

-john

[Darius]

Are they stock springs or aftermarket? Sorry I didn't look if that info was already posted and I can't remember.

RB25 Intake = YellowRB25 Exhaust = Beige?

Tomei Intake = GreenTomei Exhaust = I can't remember

[sickness14]

Are they stock springs or aftermarket? Sorry I didn't look if that info was already posted and I can't remember.

RB25 Intake = YellowRB25 Exhaust = Beige?

Tomei Intake = GreenTomei Exhaust = I can't remember

Hey Darius. They are the stock springs. Can you verify the colors for sure and ill call the shop. ?

Thanks very much

[Darius]

I am 100% on the intake valve spring color because I have a picture of it, but I cannot remember the color of the exhaust valve springs. Since there is only two and I know one, there is only one other option the exhaust can be.

[sickness14]

I am 100% on the intake valve spring color because I have a picture of it, but I cannot remember the color of the exhaust valve springs. Since there is only two and I know one, there is only one other option the exhaust can be.

Darius you are the man. Thanks sir. I called the shop and informed them.

[synergy]

You remind myself of a richer me I bought a 96 red 240 with a rb25 swap. Weisco pistons and eagle cp rods. Drove it home 9 hours from PA. It ran like crap. realized my tach was reading wrong. Fixed that and had a main bearing sieze. Now it sits in the driveway untill winter when it will be ruined with snow Grats on having the know-how and motivation to do it right.

[sickness14]

Bad news

Darius you are the man. Thanks sir. I called the shop and informed them.

The spring colors are orange and blue/green. Yikes.

Darius I need help.

[sickness14]

Bad news

Darius you are the man. Thanks sir. I called the shop and informed them.

The spring colors are orange and blue/green. Yikes.

Darius I need help.

[Shocker]

Measure them, use a spring force gage and see what they are. That is the only way to 100% know, I ran into this same issue.

[ItzGenX]

I have an old SR and KA head laying around and looked at them. Seems greenish ones were on the intake side, brownish/tan/orange were on the exhaust side. Makes a little sense on the coloring I suppose.

[Darius]

Odd. I'll look in the FSM to see if they have different springs, but I doubt it will say much. FWIW, my intake springs were approximately 39mm tall. Don't know what the exhaust springs were. I probably have them in a box at home if you can't find a straight answer by tonight.

<edit> Page SD-5 in the R33 manual shows the RB25DET intake springs being 39.4mm tall and the exhaust valves being 45.58 mm tall. The exhaust springs are stiffer and taller.

Intake compressive load spec = 22.7-25.7NExhuast compressive load spec = 27.5-29.2N
Modified by Darius at 1:17 PM 11/16/2009

[sickness14]

Yeaaaaa!

Odd. I'll look in the FSM to see if they have different springs, but I doubt it will say much. FWIW, my intake springs were approximately 39mm tall. Don't know what the exhaust springs were. I probably have them in a box at home if you can't find a straight answer by tonight.

<edit> Page SD-5 in the R33 manual shows the RB25DET intake springs being 39.4mm tall and the exhaust valves being 45.58 mm tall. The exhaust springs are stiffer and taller.

Intake compressive load spec = 22.7-25.7NExhuast compressive load spec = 27.5-29.2N

Modified by Darius at 1:17 PM 11/16/2009

[mott6904]

Im not trying to say anyone is wrong, but wouldnt it make more sense to have a stiffer spring on the intake side to avoid boost pressure pushing open a valve. maybe installed heights are different making more seat pressure

[sickness14]

The r33 fsm shows the rb25 intake valve springs are shorter at a resting height

Im not trying to say anyone is wrong, but wouldnt it make more sense to have a stiffer spring on the intake side to avoid boost pressure pushing open a valve. maybe installed heights are different making more seat pressure

Modified by sickness14 at 10:58 AM 11/18/2009

[Darius]

I think you have that reversed. The intake springs are shorter than exhaust.

[sickness14]

I think you have that reversed. The intake springs are shorter than exhaust.

Oops that's what I meant.

Hey the head machine work is finished and is now back at the shop. Juust need to assemble block and figure out what head gasket thicknesses I need. What's everyone else running?

Also I missed the fedex delivery of my wastegate yesterday so I'm going to pick it up after work. Just waitung for the turbo now. Still need some vband flange kits. What size itls the holset hx40 compressor outlet vband? I know the exhaust is 3".

[Darius]

Ok good. I thought I had misquoted the FSM for a second.

Wait on the gasket thickness until you get the bottom end assembled and can check how much the piston rises out of the bore. This will depend on how much was removed during the milling process. A dial gauge is ideal here, but you could probably get a good digital caliper or feeler gauges to work as well.

You want to maintain 0.5-1.0mm of space between the top of the piston and the head surface in the squish area. If you have too thick of a gasket, the squish doesn't "squish" anymore and you end up with a hot spot on the head and less efficient combustion. Too thin of a head gasket and the pistons are going to bounce off the squish pads and eventually bash them in until they don't hit any more

Look at Cosworth, HKS, Greddy or Tomei head gaskets only!

[sickness14]

I plan on going with the tomei. Any suggestions? Ill be getting it from ricky @ raw brokerage.

Ok good. I thought I had misquoted the FSM for a second.

Wait on the gasket thickness until you get the bottom end assembled and can check how much the piston rises out of the bore. This will depend on how much was removed during the milling process. A dial gauge is ideal here, but you could probably get a good digital caliper or feeler gauges to work as well.

You want to maintain 0.5-1.0mm of space between the top of the piston and the head surface in the squish area. If you have too thick of a gasket, the squish doesn't "squish" anymore and you end up with a hot spot on the head and less efficient combustion. Too thin of a head gasket and the pistons are going to bounce off the squish pads and eventually bash them in until they don't hit any more

Look at Cosworth, HKS, Greddy or Tomei head gaskets only!

[Cjmartz2k]

Excellent suggestions Darius. I couldn't agree more, except I would stick only with a stock gasket or tomei, but that's more preference (actually, I have heard horrible things about HKS/greddy gaskets).

John--If you know how much was milled from the head/decked from the block, just add that in and try to shoot for stock compression. Like Darius said, you can screw up the squish that was designed in into the combustion chamber by going to thick. A lot of people think they are making their motor more knock resistant and better able to handle bigger boost by getting a thicker gasket and lowering the CR, but they actually make it more prone to knock with the messed up squish, and they have lower CR which lessens response.

Is the HX40 a 3" v-band? I thought maybe it was bigger. If you call me tomorrow and remind me, I'll go to the storage unit and measure mine for ya. O yeah, the intake on the compressor is 4".

**I just realised you were talking about the outlet, not the intake. I *think* it's around 3", but I'll measure it tomorrow. Just call and remind me in the afternoon.

[sickness14]

Excellent suggestions Darius. I couldn't agree more, except I would stick only with a stock gasket or tomei, but that's more preference (actually, I have heard horrible things about HKS/greddy gaskets).

John--If you know how much was milled from the head/decked from the block, just add that in and try to shoot for stock compression. Like Darius said, you can screw up the squish that was designed in into the combustion chamber by going to thick. A lot of people think they are making their motor more knock resistant and better able to handle bigger boost by getting a thicker gasket and lowering the CR, but they actually make it more prone to knock with the messed up squish, and they have lower CR which lessens response.

Is the HX40 a 3" v-band? I thought maybe it was bigger. If you call me tomorrow and remind me, I'll go to the storage unit and measure mine for ya. O yeah, the intake on the compressor is 4".

**I just realised you were talking about the outlet, not the intake. I *think* it's around 3", but I'll measure it tomorrow. Just call and remind me in the afternoon.

The shop is going to CC the head with a plexi-glass panel and graduated cylinder. then, check the block out and determine what thickness i need to go with.

Here's an update :

I picked up the 2nd wastegate from fed-ex today, and the cylinder head is back at PCM now from the machine shop. Eric should get to the bottom end sometime next week and we'll make some more progress. thanks for looking and all of the positive comments guys. Its nice to see my work being appreciated!

here's some pics of my new stuff, and the cylinder head combustion chamber #6 which was repaired at the machine shop. thats the best its going to look unfortunately. its smooth though, looks a little odd.

HX40 Pro, billet wheel, .86 a/r T4 twin scroll, custom machined garrett GT housing.Kognition designs CF sunroof delete kitTwin 40mm synapse wastegates

[mott6904]

I hope you are going to get a good tune because those squish pads are going to melt very easily. If that was my head i would have all the trashed up areas welded and and resurfaced. Alsomake sure when you are measureing your piston height to account for piston rock.