First time turbo nissan

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KArookie
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Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2010 7:49 pm

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So I have been doing a lot of research to find out if the KA motor can handle boost without having to upgrade EVERYTHING. I currently have the motor at the machine shop getting built with Eagle Rods, Wiseco 8.8:1 pistons, headwork, cometic headgasket, ARP head and main studs, fully ballanced rotating assembly, and all the other goodies that go along. I have read in this forum that the stock MAF and injectors will handle low boost (5 or so psi) with some tweaking. I HAVE upgraded injectors along with the Greddy Emanage and Greddy Profec B boost controler. the question I have is, and trust me I have looked but not found a definitive answer, can I run low boost with the stock MAF and injectors for a bit until I can install the emanage and boost controler? This is my DD so I REALLY dont want to blow up 3,000$ worth of engine because I washed out my bearings with too much gas. :ohno: Thanks for whatever info I get.


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biggie
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You are putting that much money into building the engine. Don't boost it until you have everything you need.

KArookie
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Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2010 7:49 pm

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I am pretty sure that I have everything I need just trying to figure out if I can install parts here and there while I am driving it since I only have my motorcycle to commute with. I think the only thing I am missing is a good MAF. I have noticed that people run stock MAF's on their boosted KA's but I am not really comfortable running it if it is going to restrict the abilities of the other parts. I read the post about what parts an handle what and to what extent just not sure...... :gotme

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biggie
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The most you'd want to do on stock MAF and stock injectors is like 4-5psi. I say stock injectors because they'll have to be stock unless you are running SAFC or something to control the bigger injectors. It would just be better to get everything at once. And is why most people have a KA-T as their secondary car.

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WDRacing
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Buy a 6:1 FMU if you need to run any amount of boost without a proper tune. Do not boost with stock injectors and no management. That's just a bad idea all around when you consider the risk vs reward.

KArookie
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Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2010 7:49 pm

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I would first like to thank everyone for the advice. I do have a Greddy Emanage and computer program for it along with the greddy fuel rail and 370cc injectors that go with them. Is the stock MAF ok to use with these. Basically I pieced together the KA24DE Greddy turbo kit since I didnt have the money to drop all at once. So everything that comes in that kit I have along with the intercooler kit. The thing I was first wondering was if it was ok to run stock MAF and injectors because I am a little hesitant to start messing with the computer but now that it is going to take a little bit to get the motor back from the machine shop I will install everything so there are no issues with the stock injectors. However, I have looked into it and not found any information that says if people have upgraded their MAF with this kit. I know people do upgrade it but I would assume that if Greddy was going to sell a bolt on turbo kit that required a different MAF they would have sent one with the kit right? So I take it I can use the stock MAF with this kit to a point?

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s13drifter88
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its not as much psi as it is lbs per min. the ka has no map sensor so it has non clue how much pressure is in the intake. the maf just peaks about 17 or 18lbs per min (i think) which is why the it peaks arouing 5 psi. as cheap as they are and with what all u have in it already, ge an n60 maf with pig tail and get a rom tune ecu.

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silverkaturbo
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Car: 91 Nissan 240sx

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I have ran 8-10 psi from a t25, 10-12 psi from a gt28, and am currently running 8-10 psi from a t3 turbonetics super 60 all of this has been and is still on the stock maf with absolutely zero issues. Once I get up to 12psi on my current setup though it starts to lean out rather quickly so im thinkin that must be the limit of either the stock maf or my 370's or maybe both; at least with the super 60. or maybe i just need to spend more time tryin to add more fuel up there since i only did a couple pulls before I decided I should prob not even bother with it til I have some other upgrades myself. Im sure a t3/t4 would take less boost to accomplish this, just not sure how much less. From what I have experienced vs most of what I have read on here the stock maf is a little underrated; or maybe mine is just some freakish hoss...

s13drifter88 wrote: as cheap as they are and with what all u have in it already, ge an n60 maf with pig tail and get a rom tune ecu.
And dont do that... Not sure what turbo you have but it seems that your motor is built for big power so there really wouldnt be much sense in buying a n60. With forged internals when your gonna upgrade do it once and just skip straight to the n62 so you have some headroom to match the motor there. Same goes for the tune. You already have the emanage so it would be kind of silly to fork out another few hundred on a rom tune.

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s13drifter88
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Car: 93 S13 Coupe CA18DET (Money pit)
1996 D21 Hardbody (Work truck/daily)
!993 Del Sol (Daily)
1987 Pontiac GTA (Drag project, other money pit)
1989 SOHC S13 Buzz Car
Location: Huntsville, AL

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ive never seen past 230whp with the stock maf. thats why i vote for the n60. he could do 290-300whp with the n60. id go n62 tho coz if u wake up one day and decide u want a 2860 or a 2871 then the n60 will peg really quickly

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WDRacing
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When the MAF reaches max noise, 5v, it simply can't tell the ecu to add more fuel. If your particular car is in the 11's AFR wise when the MAF maxes out you can still add boost because it won't become dangerous until you're in the mid 12's. This is assuming you are monitoring the AFR on a wide band and controlling the timing btw.

There are several ways to add fuel after the MAF maxes out or you max out the injectors. Fuel pressure increase and sub-injection of various types are the two most common.

It's all about monitoring the AFR, which is even important if you get a generic ROM tune. Some of you guys may be running in the high 10's - low 11's and be no where near peak torque, which equates to less power bad gas mileage and more blow-by. If the tune is retarding timing like it's supposed to be, there is no reason you can't be in the low 12's - high 11's.

It doesn't sound like much but it can be 5-6 mpg or 25ish whp.

WD

KArookie
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Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2010 7:49 pm

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Alright I am getting some good feedback here and I really appreciate it. I just got the motor back from the machine shop after a month and am going to start to build it. I will try to post pictures and I am still doing work trying to get every last little bit of parts I need and research all I can. thanks again for the advice!!


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