First rebuild, wont start

[MWARMY]

hey guys and gals im having some issues getting a fresh rebuild to start i put in my 240....needless to say the cars been around the block a few times. its had an rb, sr and 2 different ka's insstalled in it thoughout the p.o's . its also an auto to manual swap. the ac and ps has been removed and hicus deleted as well. dual altima fans have been wired into the ac relay with a temp switch to cool the aluminium radiator. emissions have been removed and ive got a msd blaster 2 with ballast resistor for my coil. the issue im having is when i crank the engine it turns but doesnt fire. ive check for fuel and spark and im getting both. i removed the spark plugs and they're soaked in fuel. checked fuel pressure and its at 45psi when i turn the key to the on position and after a second drops to 42 during cranking 38. i pulled the injectors and put them in an extra fuel rail and hooked up the fuel lines to watch them fire when i cranked the engine. when its cranking all the injectors fire at once i guess this is called batch firing which the ka does when it tries to start. (from what ive read at least..) it seems lik there is an excesive amount of fuel coming out of each injector when it fires, i took the dizzy out and spun the gear at the end of it, with the key in the on possition and each injector fireds individualy a little pufff of fuel way less than what came out during cranking of engine. i checked the ecu for any codes and the only one i get back consistanly is 34.. knock sensor. i have gotten quiet a few times the no ignitions signal present in the primary circit error code (21 i believe) but not everytime after ive reset it. ive gotten the engine to pop a couple times when i start fresh for the day and the spark plugs are dry, but thats it. it floods b4 it will turn over completly. timing is correct ive checked as well as a friend thats been helping witht the build. oh yea and i swaped ecu's coolant temp sensors ignition control module and the dizzy. unfortunatly the parts that were changed wernt all new some came out of the junkyard and some out of other running 240's. oh yes and theres more ( i kno completely molested) there was an alarm in the car, i removed it but some of the alarm harness is still under the dash. i found at least one wire from one of the stock dash harness plugs that has been spliced to the alarm harness.

[compactfean]

Look in the fsm and fallow the code 21 diagnostic procedure. See where that leeds you. (of coarse include the fact you have an aftermarket coil) knock sensor id deal with after you get it running. Also what does the motor compr ession text at?

[MWARMY]

well im not sure what it compression tested at accuraly because all the gas that was flooding the engine washed the assembly lubeout of the cylinders and that wouldnt give accurate readings. im trying to crank it as least as possiblec cause it will ruin the rings right? =/

[MWARMY]

ok i went through the diagnostic steps for the trouble code 21 and everything checked out with the harness but when i checked the power transistor it didnt register continuity on terminal A and B. in the fsm this means its bad. im pretty sure this is why it threw the code but can this prevent the car from starting even if im getting spark off my plugs? my guess is its the signal from the power transistor back to the ecu thats isnt happening?

[compactfean]

That would be my guess. The transistor works like a switch so thats probably the case. usually when I diag oem problems I just fallow the fsm, replace what ever part tests bad, and be on my way. Lol.

[MWARMY]

got another power transistor and tested it with two dif multimeters and it did the same as the original. i was however able to get the engine to start when i jumperd power to the starter solenoid with the key in the on position...boy it sounds good ...so what the heck its flooding when its cranked by the key but not jump started

[compactfean]

Hmmm maybe a start signal issue?

[MWARMY]

yea i agree, im just not familiar with issues that would be involved with the sstarting signal/ ignition signal. ill be working on her again saturday.

[moso]

my guess is that the starter signal line is shorting to the injector feed, or possibly to the injector ground. if the injectors can find ground through the hot leads when the injector is off, then they will all fire simultaneously when 12v is applied to the ground side. either way i would suspect damage to the wiring harness.... unloom time!!