First Project Car (06' M35)

[SwayMan512]

Hello, I have a 2006 Infiniti M35. This is my first car and I always wanted to have my first car as a project car. I need guidance on what I should do to work on this car first. I'm wanting to work on everything from the exhaust to body kits, bagging it, and even upgrading some parts. Just want to know what's the best I can get and if there's anything out there I can still do to work on this nice car.
'

[EniGmA1987]

Most body kits are out of Japan these days. You can do things like add a universal lip spoiler and such, but full body kits are harder to come by.

Exhaust is easy, there are still a lot of bolt on options and of course you can always go custom setup. Do some searching on these forums for exhaust and you will find a lot.

Suspension is easy too. Most suspension parts that fit a G35 or 350Z also fit the M35.

Performance wise for the engine also has a lot of availability since the G35 and 350Z use the same engine. I actually have a fully built engine for sale if you want to do that. Or you can buy all the parts and have the fun of building it yourself

Where are you located?

[SwayMan512]

I'm around the Austin, Tx area. And I'm working on building it myself. There's a shop near me that actually works specifically on Nissan vehicles so they could possibly help me out as-well. Was also thinking about bagging it ouy too! Just was looking around to see what things people recommend working on first or any advice on places I could look online or what so ever. And thank you g!!

[SwayMan512]

ANyone have any advice on where I can get a cold air intake??

[EniGmA1987]

You can grab an Injen CAI here:
https://injen.com/i-30498479-injen-sp-c ... 91blk.html

Your first mods should be in the direction you want to go first, either performance or cosmetic.
If performance, grab the intake, do exhaust, add a strut bar, start on some engine mods.
If cosmetic then do some body kit research. My personal favorite has always been Job Design:
https://myjapandirect.com/product/job-d ... 2005-2009/
You can also grab clear taillights off ebay or such if you like the look of them.

[SwayMan512]

The direction I'm trying to go right now is performance, I can always add cosmetics as I go. And I appreciate your help! I've been doing a lot of research on diff parts I can upgrade, just making fitments are right and things will go accordingly. For the look, I'm really just trying to black it out. So later on I'm gonna get it wrapped and black out the silver trimmings as well. I did also end up finding an axle back. Again thank you for the help! If you have any more links of upgrades I can do would you mind sending me some?

[EniGmA1987]

When you start doing performance, dont forget reliability mods as well. You should add a transmission cooler and an oil cooler to drop the temps on those areas. Extra heat will kill those things faster.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/transmiss ... 98ac4bee25
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-produc ... 1d56a868ad

Run an oil catch can to keep oil from being burned too much in the engine and keep things cleaner:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-produc ... de6a273de9





Once you start getting into engine upgrades, start off with a crank girdle to strengthen the engine block, and replace the oil pump gears to ones that are far stronger:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/lubricati ... 8952caf615
Don't forget to reinstall some baffles when putting the girdle in, to help keep oil from sloshing around.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/lubricati ... 8952caf615
The oil pump gears are usually the first area of failure at higher than stock RPM, and it was something Nissan replaced with their VQ35HR version of the motor. It is a known limit.
The first engine part to fail horsepower wise is the connecting rods, but those are good to about 400HP, so not an issue unless you are going forced induction (turbo or super)
The block being made of cast aluminum also doesnt handle high RPM well or going forced induction, so the girdle adds some strength to the block for all future upgrades.

Those engine reliability upgrades will let you run higher RPM on the engine safely, so with a tune you can set your max RPM to 7250 instead of 6750. Dont do it all the time, as without replacing the entire oil system you will still run into starvation problems that high of RPM, but it will be fine to do it to show off here and then and for dyno runs.
In order to unlock even higher RPM than that, you will need to replace your valve springs. You are already going to be nearing the edge of valve float at 7250rpm with the stock valve springs.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/camshafts ... 79b9ae98fa
https://www.z1motorsports.com/tools/jwt ... 4f9aad1cd7
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-produc ... 4f9aad1cd7
Though to really make any more above 7000 RPM you will also need to either do some serious mods to the OEM upper and lower plenum, or replace them entirely with a far superior intake manifold:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/intake-up ... bda87c27f5
And a slightly larger throttle body to go with it for increased airflow:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-produc ... edTogether

If you want to add some more performance while you are in doing valve stuff then replace your camshafts with these:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/camshafts ... d8242680a0

Then change some pulleys to lightweight models and do the idler pulley delete mod so that the engine can rev up more quickly due to less rotating mass:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-produc ... c72b3bb6b6
https://www.z1motorsports.com/pulleys-a ... c72b3bb6b6
These will slightly increase HP by cause less loss in the engine, but also a faster rev will make the car feel faster as well due to being more responsive.


Once you finish all that performance stuff if you decide you want more your next step would be to decide whether you are going for really high compression ratio and stay NA, or just go FI with it. They take you in two different directions as far as pistons and rods, so you have to decide which way at this point.

[SwayMan512]

WOW! Really hooked me up with this! Appreciate you alot!

[SwayMan512]

Right now I'm between a K&N intkake https://www.z1motorsports.com/air-intak ... 28095.html and the Injen Intake you recommended me. Trying to see if there's really any of a differnece, including the sound.

[EniGmA1987]

Right now I'm between a K&N intkake https://www.z1motorsports.com/air-intak ... 28095.html and the Injen Intake you recommended me. Trying to see if there's really any of a differnece, including the sound.

Normally you want to stay away from K&N because many people who have had them have had burned out MAF sensors due to the oil on the air filter. You are supposed to stay away from any air filters with oil on any car that uses a hot wire type MAF.
That said, Injen also uses an oiled washable air filter. So it is kinda weird to not have heard a single story from someone using those intakes and having a problem and yet seeing a dozen posts from K&N users with the problem. IDK if maybe K&N uses more oil maybe? Or maybe just has more owners and so you just see posts from them because so many more people own it? IDK. I personally have the Injen though. Looks like Z1 also sells it for less money than directly through Injen though:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/cold-air- ... 43845.html

The difference is that the Injen is actually a CAI, and the K&N is not beause it doesnt extend the tube down into the wheel well to suck cold air from outside the engine bay. In wet weather though the Injen will likely hydrolock due to the air pickup location, so that can be a pain in the butt to have to remove the extension tube during wet weather in order top drive the car without issue.

[SwayMan512]

That's what I was worried about the CAI is being hydro locked if it rains or snows, but I'm in central Texas so we really don't get that much wet weather. When I stay up in West Texas during the winter months it does snow a lil bit but I was just checking to be safe if I wanted a short ram, but thank you for telling me that about K&N intakes.

[EniGmA1987]

Its also possible that only the K&N owners have reported burned out MAFs because the K&N lets more things through, including the oil on the filter. Check out this video:
https://youtu.be/sJ3L-E-ufYo
Specifically the 5:45, 8:45, and 13:10 marks. I had forgotten just how bad an air filter K&N actually is.



One other thing I was just remembering that is a must have upgrade is a front strut tower bar if you can at all get one. Only Soul Function made one for our car, other than having one custom fabricated. Unfortunately it is out of production and very hard to find. This doesn't add any HP to the car, but does add body rigidity and makes handling much better. This in turn increases performance by allowing you to corner faster.
This site supposedly has one:
https://www.modenhubk.com/index.php?mai ... _id=293778
But That price seems really cheap, they were around $275 when they used to be made, and I have never heard of that site before. So that may be a scam, but it was the only place I could find that was selling one.

[SwayMan512]

I think I might be able to find one, there's a shop that specializes in Nissian/Infinti's so they might be able to hook me up with a front strut tower bar.

[SwayMan512]

When you start doing performance, dont forget reliability mods as well. You should add a transmission cooler and an oil cooler to drop the temps on those areas. Extra heat will kill those things faster.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/transmiss ... 98ac4bee25
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-produc ... 1d56a868ad

Run an oil catch can to keep oil from being burned too much in the engine and keep things cleaner:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-produc ... de6a273de9





Once you start getting into engine upgrades, start off with a crank girdle to strengthen the engine block, and replace the oil pump gears to ones that are far stronger:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/lubricati ... 8952caf615
Don't forget to reinstall some baffles when putting the girdle in, to help keep oil from sloshing around.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/lubricati ... 8952caf615
The oil pump gears are usually the first area of failure at higher than stock RPM, and it was something Nissan replaced with their VQ35HR version of the motor. It is a known limit.
The first engine part to fail horsepower wise is the connecting rods, but those are good to about 400HP, so not an issue unless you are going forced induction (turbo or super)
The block being made of cast aluminum also doesnt handle high RPM well or going forced induction, so the girdle adds some strength to the block for all future upgrades.

Those engine reliability upgrades will let you run higher RPM on the engine safely, so with a tune you can set your max RPM to 7250 instead of 6750. Dont do it all the time, as without replacing the entire oil system you will still run into starvation problems that high of RPM, but it will be fine to do it to show off here and then and for dyno runs.
In order to unlock even higher RPM than that, you will need to replace your valve springs. You are already going to be nearing the edge of valve float at 7250rpm with the stock valve springs.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/camshafts ... 79b9ae98fa
https://www.z1motorsports.com/tools/jwt ... 4f9aad1cd7
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-produc ... 4f9aad1cd7
Though to really make any more above 7000 RPM you will also need to either do some serious mods to the OEM upper and lower plenum, or replace them entirely with a far superior intake manifold:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/intake-up ... bda87c27f5
And a slightly larger throttle body to go with it for increased airflow:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-produc ... edTogether

If you want to add some more performance while you are in doing valve stuff then replace your camshafts with these:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/camshafts ... d8242680a0

Then change some pulleys to lightweight models and do the idler pulley delete mod so that the engine can rev up more quickly due to less rotating mass:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-produc ... c72b3bb6b6
https://www.z1motorsports.com/pulleys-a ... c72b3bb6b6
These will slightly increase HP by cause less loss in the engine, but also a faster rev will make the car feel faster as well due to being more responsive.


Once you finish all that performance stuff if you decide you want more your next step would be to decide whether you are going for really high compression ratio and stay NA, or just go FI with it. They take you in two different directions as far as pistons and rods, so you have to decide which way at this point.

For the Kinetix VQ35DE Velocity Manifold, I've heard some reviews such as the Manifold cracking and or doesn't really add as much as a performance boost and that I would be better off with a spacer. I would like to ask how you felt about your Manifold and if such things are common. I've watched videos and looked in other forums and it seems pretty middle ground when it comes to just getting a spacer or Kinetix Manifold. Later on in the future, I may go FI but I'll see how things play out with the help you've provided me. Do you have any pictures of your car and engine bay? I'd like to see the work you've done with your car. I don't see many M35 builds.

[EniGmA1987]

The spacer from what I remember drops your torque in the lower RPM and boosts it in the higher. The whole new manifold is a smoother torque curve that gives a very minor (1-3HP) boost the entire RPM range, with an actual large performance gain (10-15) up in the 6500+ range. The velocity manifold also does a much better job of equalizing flow to all cylinders, so is better when you are going for big time upgrades and trying to get the most out of the car and its tune.

I haven't heard of any cracking issues, but I haven't really looked either. I know mine has been on for years and hasn't had a problem.

[SwayMan512]

The spacer from what I remember drops your torque in the lower RPM and boosts it in the higher. The whole new manifold is a smoother torque curve that gives a very minor (1-3HP) boost the entire RPM range, with an actual large performance gain (10-15) up in the 6500+ range. The velocity manifold also does a much better job of equalizing flow to all cylinders, so is better when you are going for big time upgrades and trying to get the most out of the car and its tune.

I haven't heard of any cracking issues, but I haven't really looked either. I know mine has been on for years and hasn't had a problem.

Gotcha. Thank you for all the help! Means alot!

[SwayMan512]

Does anyone have any tips for the exhaust? I did a muffler delete in June and wonder if a performance muffler is better than a whole delete. I wanted something that both sounds good and gives some performance.

[EniGmA1987]

The mufflers sound really nice on the car and add horsepower:
https://www.jegs.com/i/Jones-Exhaust/52 ... 5/10002/-1
https://www.amazon.com/BLACKHORSE-RACIN ... B07L57BBGS

And two of each of these just to make it easier for the shop to weld it all together nicely:
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-2-5-Ma ... BKF1/?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Apeixoto-Univers ... 08SC3FC6B/

And I believe these flanges are the size that comes with the OEM exhaust if you want the muffler to be able to bolt on and off the OEM exhaust:
www.amazon.com/Slmnliras-Exhaust-Connec ... 0C2C7G4TB/


A turbine muffler is a straight through design so you have less restriction in the exhaust, but it also uses baffles in a way to draw off slower moving exhaust to the outside and then allowing it to be reintroduced to the main flow to create a low pressure zone that helps suck more exhaust. This increase in suction is what helps increase horsepower by improving engine scavenging.

[SwayMan512]

The mufflers sound really nice on the car and add horsepower:
https://www.jegs.com/i/Jones-Exhaust/52 ... 5/10002/-1
https://www.amazon.com/BLACKHORSE-RACIN ... B07L57BBGS

And two of each of these just to make it easier for the shop to weld it all together nicely:
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-2-5-Ma ... BKF1/?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Apeixoto-Univers ... 08SC3FC6B/

And I believe these flanges are the size that comes with the OEM exhaust if you want the muffler to be able to bolt on and off the OEM exhaust:
www.amazon.com/Slmnliras-Exhaust-Connec ... 0C2C7G4TB/


A turbine muffler is a straight through design so you have less restriction in the exhaust, but it also uses baffles in a way to draw off slower moving exhaust to the outside and then allowing it to be reintroduced to the main flow to create a low pressure zone that helps suck more exhaust. This increase in suction is what helps increase horsepower by improving engine scavenging.

Appreciate you a lot! Might get all of this done during the summer! Did you do anything to your resonators??

[EniGmA1987]

Appreciate you a lot! Might get all of this done during the summer! Did you do anything to your resonators??

I actually have 3 different exhaust setups on the car. One is old, one I used to use at the track, and one is my street use. None of them are truly the masterpiece I wanted, but I just didnt want to drop an extra thousand to make my masterpiece. Maybe one day. lol
Ill try and post some pictures at some point if I can find them still. But I use Vibrant Performance brand resonators (glasspack) on some and Jones turbine resonators on another setup. And actually, Im now remembering the other setup has some Flowmaster somethingorothers on it that I didnt like much. lol

edit: this was the design idea of one of my exhausts. I think my larger track one

[SwayMan512]

Appreciate you a lot! Might get all of this done during the summer! Did you do anything to your resonators??

I actually have 3 different exhaust setups on the car. One is old, one I used to use at the track, and one is my street use. None of them are truly the masterpiece I wanted, but I just didnt want to drop an extra thousand to make my masterpiece. Maybe one day. lol
Ill try and post some pictures at some point if I can find them still. But I use Vibrant Performance brand resonators (glasspack) on some and Jones turbine resonators on another setup. And actually, Im now remembering the other setup has some Flowmaster somethingorothers on it that I didnt like much. lol

edit: this was the design idea of one of my exhausts. I think my larger track one

Yooooo! Thanks for this, nice setup man! I'm still stuck between an H and or X pipe. I know for the H it might have a deeper sound and aswell as somewhat better in torque. But the thing is I can't find any video of an H pipe and how it sounds on this car what so ever! Again thanks for the help. I also saw you posted 2 videos on how your exhaust sounds in abother thread and boy does it sound good