First Oil Change

[Innovazn]

Question,

What brand?
What Type?
Filter?

Im looking at Synthetic - Royal Purple. What weight? 5-30?

Thanks. Hoping to get this done today.

[Towncivilian]

I'd rather run a conventional oil until break-in is finished (somewhere around 15-20k miles I'd think) at 3,750 mile intervals to save a bit of coin, and then switch to a synthetic of your choice. Always use 5W-30, no reason to use anything else. I like Purolator PureONE filters; PL14612 is the one spec'd for your Altima. The slightly longer PL14610 will fit, but just in case anything happens under warranty always use the specified filter, never oversized.

[SanoSuKe]

Don't you get your first oil change for free at the dealer? I got mine brand new and was told it's better to do the first one at the dealer.

[Innovazn]

Gunna be going for a long haul... and i want fresh oil up in that engine.... Ive already plowed through 3k km

[Innovazn]

Any other inputs?

[mikethemike]

Who here waits until you hit the mileage as opposed to waiting for 3 months? Its been about 5 months since my last oil change but I still have about 1000 to go and then some since it can go up to 7000 miles (I'd probably change it before 5k)

[Firedancer]

I definitely wait. My car isn't a daily driver. Last oil change was back in Feb and I still haven't hit the mileage. As far as I know there is nothing wrong with waiting for the mileage...especially running synthetic. If anyone knows otherwise please let me know!

[RicerX]

My practice has always been this for new cars - change at 1000-1500 mi to a synthetic blend oil and add a magnetic drain plug and magnetic oil filter glove. Run synthetic blend until 5000 mi (changing once at 3000 mi). At 5000, start using Mobil1 and run until trade in or death of vehicle.

My cars that I buy used, I check the oil when I purchase and usually run 1 or 2 thousand miles and then change to my mobil1 routine.

For the Altima Coupe V6, I highly recommend Mobil1 extended performance. I wouldn't do it earlier than 5000 miles though as synthetic oil will delay break in. Mobil makes a conventional oil now, but I can't remember what it is called.

At times when I cannot obtain Mobil1 in my area (sometimes inventory goes through random droughts) I use Pennzoil Ultra/Platinum synthetic. With my Z, I exclusively use Mobil1 (considering making the switch to Redline, it is an ester based synthetic which is highly recommended for the 3.7L) and if I can't get Mobil1 or Redline, it will sit until I can get it (beauty of having a daily driver).

I used Royal Purple in my Jetta turbo (it seemed to run better on that than Mobil1.). My Cavalier, Sentra Spec V, three Altima Coupes and my 370Z all have had Mobil1 synthetic. Taking into account that Ferrari considers Mobil1 good enough to use, I would say it is ok for my Nissans.

[AllenB]

Oil debates tend to be a no-win situation! I prefer to use science to make the call.

Did the 1st change on my AC at just under 1K miles, as has been my standard for all my vehicles (cars/bikes/trucks).

Mobil 1 Synth and a Purolator PureOne filter. Have had excellent results with that combo in the past based on Blackstone analysis and expect the same with the AC. I will also run Valvoline or Penzoil full synth depending on the engine- they seem to shear down a little better in smaller engines that run hotter but YMMV. I intend to swap to Penzoil or Valvoline (whichever is cheaper) after this run on Mobil 1 to compare since this is my 1st experience with a the Nissan VQ engine, but the comparison will be based on oil analysis instead of internet opinion. Royal Purple and Amsoil are both quality products, but IMHO not worth the premium you pay compared to other offerings.

While I do the analysis, I will choose a quality oil and swap it at 5k - 7.5k (or more) depending on the analysis. Some may say it is overkill, a Blackstone analysis will tell you a lot about how your engine is actually running; much more than just guessing as you stare at the jugs on sale at AutoZone. If you are ADHD about things like this, checkout bobistheoilguy.com for some science (and opinion) and real-world observations to back up the claims. Have to weed thru some opinions but easy to find descent data.

As mentioned, 5k is a good point to blindly change (any earlier with a clean air filter is a waste of money) but if you have the chance to get an analysis done, you will likely discover you can go quite a bit longer between changes with a descent air filter and synth oil.

Allen

[SHIFT_COUPE]

Allen, good to see you again! I look forward to your oil analysis, I would love to see the results.

[AllenB]

Allen, good to see you again! I look forward to your oil analysis, I would love to see the results.

Been MIA for a bit thanks to work, but still loving the AC!

It is hard to explain sometimes that oil is a dynamic subject. I am running a K&N Typhoon intake which may not mesh with a stock (or other brand) intake analysis results. How you drive and where you are (high-revs and high temps) can also throw off the results a little. All way too much science for some (not a poke) so the analysis for one individual should be taken with a grain of salt.

If I could give "generic" advice, I would suggest Mobil 1, Penzoil or Valvoline synth oils with the Purolator PureOne filter. Not in that order, simply the brand that is the cheapest (on sale) when you pass the 5k mark and you are hard pressed to go wrong. That assumes your air-box/air filter are sealed and in good shape (limiting silica in the motor). If it slipped to 6k before the change, I wouldn't loose a minutes sleep... If Amsoil or Royal Purple is cheaper, more power to 'ya; no way to go wrong and no foul- all solid products.


Allen

[rcboy514]

I've been using RP 5w-30 for the last 26k miles on my car. No complaints, change every 7k miles.

sort of OT, but I think you guys with find this amusing.....did an oil change on my 545i last weekend....costs $110 just in oil and filter lol







be happy the coupe uses less than 5 quarts lmao

[RicerX]

Some good information on these posts! I did my share of extensive research with the Z and found an oil analysis somewhere for the VQ37VHR. I need to find it again, but I remember coming out of it pretty much dead set on sticking with Mobil1 for that motor rather than bothering with Nissan's non-synthetic ester oil.

I have a Wal Mart 10 minutes from my house, so I get away with Mobil1 by the 5qt jug for a good price. Unfortunately, I have to get my filter elsewhere - WM doesn't sell the freakin mobil1 filters. I'm definitely going with the purolator for the next oil change in the Z, which is coming up.

And RCBoy - I can't see your pictures (but that is due to something on my end) - why on earth does it cost $110 for your BMW?! Is it THAT much oil?

[Innovazn]

Costed me 113 in oil here in CANADA..... and thats with a discount.... then again i bough an extra bottle JUST IN CASE... so technically... woulda been just shy of 100 give or take (+filter)

[stevewaclo]

AllanB

As you observed, science is good. Multiple anecdotes do not constitute data.

Switched the wife's 3.5 to Mobil 1 at 48k. Sent a sample of removed store brand oil to Blackstone and learned the engine oil (5k change cycle and an expensive Bosch filter) had characteristics similar to cars @ 6k. I took that as a good thing and will be going 10k! maybe more, on the Mobil 1. YMMV

Without this turning into a commercial for Blackstone (oil analysis) would highly recommend their reasonably priced services and signing up for the newsletter. The site is graduate school for folks who want to understand oil.

BTW, and this is going to go down hard, their investigation of oil from tens of thousands of engines indicates very little apparent performance differences among API rated oils. The choice of oil filter, however, has a major impact.

And no surprise here, "three months or 3000 miles" is soooo yesterday.

And finally, "been using Super Dino in the Gold Can for 20k and no complaints" is what you call an anecdote (see above). Short of rod knock, oil analysis is the only way to know what lurks in your crankcase.

Best wishes

[AllenB]

BTW, and this is going to go down hard, their investigation of oil from tens of thousands of engines indicates very little apparent performance differences among API rated oils. The choice of oil filter, however, has a major impact.

I guess that was my major hard spot. I wanted more info other that the owner's manual (to cover the arse of the company) and a general web search.

In my totally unscientific observations, I can't for the life of me figure out the 3k interval that is the norm. The key to me seems to be a sealed air box and a good filter coupled with a good oil filter seems to be the key to a reliable engine.

I may be simplifying things a bit, but I am a simple guy....


/r

Allen

[Throckmorton]

I'd rather run a conventional oil until break-in is finished (somewhere around 15-20k miles I'd think) at 3,750 mile intervals to save a bit of coin, and then switch to a synthetic of your choice. Always use 5W-30, no reason to use anything else.

From the Mobil website
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... il_1_FAQs4

Question:
Is it true that new engines need break-in periods using conventional motor oil?
Answer:
That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances, much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils.

From the Pennzoil website:
http://www.pennzoil.com/learn-about-mot ... hetic-oil/

Myth: You should break in your engine with conventional oil before you start using synthetic oil.

Again, there’s no manufacturer we’re aware of that makes this recommendation. Mercedes, Porsche, Corvette, some Cadillacs, Volkswagen, Hyundai and many other manufacturers’ cars come from the factory with synthetic oil.

From the Castrol website:
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/generica ... Id=7017050

FACT or MYTH?
You can use synthetic oils without a break-in period.

Answer: FACT! You can start using synthetics immediately. A break-in period used to be recommended for a car's first oil change, but that's history now with current engine technology.

[AllenB]

Since oil sites are in the business of selling oil, I take some of their info with a grain of salt...

BUT! I do agree with swapping to synth oil at the 1st opportunity. I will change over at 500 miles on a brand new engine simply because it gives the engine the chance to complete any "break in" and any metallic particles will be captured and drained. A little science to that but is mostly personal preference...

[RicerX]

As mentioned, 5k is a good point to blindly change (any earlier with a clean air filter is a waste of money).

I just realized that I skipped over this on accident and I wanted to make a counter argument - I would say this assessment is good if you're daily driving. In the case of hard driving (i.e. track/autocross use) I would say you may want to adjust your oil change interval accordingly.

For most people on this forum, however, this will likely hold true.