First hand tips/questions after installing Stance GR+ Pro

[Dongoesby]

Hi fellow members, after the two days of learning-mistakes installing of this Stance Coilover Gr+ Pro (purchased from Enjuku), I have come up with few tips and crucial questions.

After looking at the online resources, I decided to DIY the coilover in order to learn a few things. Immeadiately, there were few questions came up which also asked by other members but answers couldn't be found online.

For installing, here is a good reference:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP52K8O2MSg

Front CoiloverTips 1: when taking out the two bolts at the bottom (front suspension), it is good to use a jack at the bottom to support the "bottom control arm", because you can adjust the angle of the joints but leveling up and down of the jack and push and pull of the brake assemply. If you get the angle right, both bolts should come out easily. (Of course, you will need grease like wd40 and soft hammer). Also, remember, get the bottom bolt first, so the brake assemply wouldn't fall immediately and got stuck.

Tips 2: remember to preadjust the height before put on the new front coilover!! My hands were wounded, but still couldn't turn the thread to adjust height after they were installed. If you don't know you how to adjust it and don't want to repeat the process of taking out the wheels and puting them back on to find the height, then keep reading.

Rear CoiloverTips 3: There are only one bolts instead of two for the rear damper, and two nuts on top in stead of three. Go from the bottom first, then repeat the procedures from the clip. Again, preadjust the height before installing.

Tip 4: Can't lower your coilover?Put a jack under the control arm to push the weight of the control arms, bars, rods, brake assemply, etc., so the thread body should be turnable now. Notice, don't push up the control arm too much which this will lock up the damper; just push up a little bit then turn the thread body till to the point you can't turn no more, then continue to adjust the jack a little bit to push up by a little. Repeat this procedure could save you a lot of effort.

Tip 5: If you went into trouble, be calm, and don't freak out. There is always a way to get around your problem. Don't rush. When you rush, you will run into more problems, which will ended up in wasting time. If you can't finish your work, spread your works in two or three days. In this way, you will enjoy your time and work on your car!

For Height Adjustment

I'm not an expert, this is also my first install, so I'm also having questions in this setp. Please feel free to correct me.

Not sure how to adjust the height? Here is how:Many answers I have found are people who are saying that just lose the bottom collar (gold color below B), and turn the thread body (B). But in these two days of repeatedly adjusting the height, I found out this way might be a little problematic.

When only adjusting the thread body, it will change the height of the whole coilver, which it will also change the ride height. However, at the end, you will find out that both rear coilovers are running on different height. It is because the weight distribuation at the back is different. I used the 6kg/mm spring rate and the difference between compressed height verse the uncompressed height to make an calculation, which in the results, the rear passenger side is approx. 800 lbs and the driver side is approx. 600lbs. This will give you a different compression rate when you racing on the track or driving on the street.

Therefore, I thought of another mathematical way to adjust it. Instead of only adjusting the height of the part B, I also adjust the height of A, which it is meant to acheive the same compression rate for both rear coilovers.

From below the camber plate to the silver plate on top of the thinner gold collar, I made couple measurements in A verses the ratio with the measurement in B. Based on the weight distribution, there is my current data:(recorded when uncompressed, which means lifted up without wheel)Passenger side A=10in, B=6.75in Driver Side A=7.75in, B=6.75in

In theory, this should give you the same compression height/rate when the car is lowered, and they will give you the same height of 24.25in on stock rims from the fender wheel well to the group, which is no finger gap for both rear wheels.

extra:Front Spring when uncompress 8.7inRear Spring when uncompressed: 10inWith Driver, Driver Side Spring would compress 0.05in

Both Front A = 8in, B = .5in

This will get you 23.75in from the fender wheel well to the ground. About 5in from the ground to front nose.

The result (ride height) will change if you change any of the numbers (height of B or A), which means you might have to do anothe calculation. Again, this is my personal calculation, please use it as concerned. (This might be an absolutely unnecessary since I heard some people say don't touch the preload?) However, I have found out the ride has become a lot better/solid comparing to my initial adjustment when just adjusting the height of B without A. I'm assuming this is the reason why some people are complaining about coilovers' bouncy ride. Also, these data are calculated with the variables of helper spring which is at a different (linear) spring rate than 6kg/mm.

Questions 1:When I remove the original rear damper, I found out the difference at the bottom where it holds the bolt. The stance one is thicker which seems the bolt won't go in as much as the thinner stock damper. Would this lead to an danger of unsecured bolt?

Questions 2:How to put back the metal clips that holds the brake line in position?

Questions 3:How can you be sure your bolts are tightened up and won't come loose under hard driving?

That is it, I hope this would help some people, and I hope other members can throw your height adjustment numbers in here with ride height, so we all can use it as a reference. I still haven't got time to turn adjust the stiffness on top (15ways)? We will see what happens later.

Here is my ride after two days arousal







Modified by Dongoesby at 6:21 AM 5/11/2008

Modified by Dongoesby at 6:30 AM 5/11/2008

Modified by Dongoesby at 7:02 AM 5/11/2008

Modified by Dongoesby at 7:06 AM 5/11/2008
Modified by Dongoesby at 7:22 AM 5/11/2008

[Rucca]

Q #1: As long as the bolt threads pass through the nut - no.

Q #2: Position the brake line properly, position the clip properly, and tap it into place.

Q #3: Tighten them properly. They should be quite tight, you could use lock-tite if you are paranoid but really just make sure they are good and tight.

[Dongoesby]

Like the post said, I like more people to chip in with their spec of their suspension setup, and also correct me if I'm wrong.

Answer 1: the length of the bolt that passes throught is shortened, how can you be so sure it won't affect the stability of it?

Answer 2: I tried, but I can't get it back in.

Answer 3: Don't you have to use a torque wrench and match with the torque spec from the factory recommendation to tight them back to position? (ie, the top nuts of the front suspension is 55 lbs)

[Driver11324]

Question #2: I have same problem, the clip slides on but it somehow always finds its way off the bracket. I've tried bending the clip, so that there is more of an arc and it has helped a little.

[Dongoesby]

but did you notice, the arc of the clip actually used to hold the brake line by pushing the brake line with the arc. If you bend the arc more, won't you make it harder to slide the clip back in.

[Driver11324]

yes, it made it harder to push back in, but the problem I had was that the clip was too loose. The hole where the brake line nut has to fit on the coilover seems to big which makes it fall out or become uneven in the bracket. When it becomes uneven, there is a bigger gap between the bracket and where the clip is supposed to be, thats why I bent the clip. Sorry if Im confusing you, its hard to describe. Im going to try slotting a washer that just fits around the brake like so that the clip will stay.

[Rucca]

Like the post said, I like more people to chip in with their spec of their suspension setup, and also correct me if I'm wrong.

Answer 1: the length of the bolt that passes throught is shortened, how can you be so sure it won't affect the stability of it?

Answer 2: I tried, but I can't get it back in.

Answer 3: Don't you have to use a torque wrench and match with the torque spec from the factory recommendation to tight them back to position? (ie, the top nuts of the front suspension is 55 lbs)

Q1: The strength of the bolt is based on the number of threads used and the tension on those threads. The length of bolt protuding out the end has no effect.

Q2: You either need a new clip or to try harder? Dunno.

Q3: A torque wrench will ensure that you have the proper specs if you are worried, however, it is not necessary. Any shop will just use an impact gun on these bolts and they will probably end up at around 100+ ft/lbs. Just tighten them as tightly as you would your wheels, and then an extra 1/8th turn or so.

[2.4Loflove]

stance are bad***. I'm going to cop a set once I fall into some greeeeeen. props for the writeup

[Dongoesby]

nice input guys!

so anyone want to throw in how you fine tune your coilover?