First Gen Rogue Intellikey

[bradlemmond]

I have a 2011 Rogue and I tried to change the battery in one of the Intellikeys and now it doesn't work at all. I took it apart a couple of times to make sure the battery was in the correct position, the correct polarity, and seated correctly. I also tested the battery with a multimeter and it tested over 3 volts. Is there anything else I can try? Is there something that might have fallen out? What is the least expensive way to get a replacement?

Thank you,
Brad

[phmichel]

Welcome to the forum Brad. I found this on a Nissan dealer's website. Have not tried it myself:

NISSAN INTELLIGENT KEY PROGRAMMING INSTRUCTIONS
Are you curious about how the Nissan Intelligent Key can make your drives through Kitty Hawk even more convenient? Nissan Intelligent Key programming is simple, and our team at Nissan of Elizabeth City would be glad to help! Follow our step-by-step instructions below, and your Nissan Intelligent Key will be functioning for your ultimate convenience in Suffolk, VA before you know it. Read on to learn how to program this Nissan proximity key can work for you:

The first step to Nissan key programming is to get in the car with the key, then lock the doors.
Put the key into the ignition, but don’t start the car, then remove the key. Do this about six times, although it can take up to 10 times. When your car accepts the key, the hazard lights will flash twice. This puts the vehicle and key in program mode.
Put the key back in the ignition and turn the key, without starting the vehicle, to activate the electronics.
Immediately press any button on the Nissan Intelligent Key. This needs to be done quickly to be effective.
Next, you’ll want to test out the Nissan Intelligent Key. Stand farther away from your Nissan and click the buttons on the Key. If the lights flash or the horn beeps once, your Nissan Intelligent Key programming was successful!
You'll want to test this out near your Nissan to be sure everything works properly. Walk up to your vehicle and open the door – you should be able to do this without having to press any buttons on your Nissan Intelligent Key.

[Big Red Rogue]

But...but....I don't have an ignition switch!

[VStar650CL]

Yah, I wasn't gonna say it, but...

That procedure only works to program fobs or lollipop keys on non-I-key vehicles.

For the OP, check the metal "fingers" and ground contact that transfer power from the battery. A lot of times one or the other will get weak or bent and the circuit board no longer gets power. As an aside, all Nissan I-keys have an inductive "emergency start" system built into the fob. Press the Start button using the end of the fob that has the Nissan logo. There's an antenna behind the button and a passive RFID system inside the logo end of the key, those will get the car started even if the key is drowned.

[bradlemmond]

Thank you for the information, but this won't work for me.
Brad

Welcome to the forum Brad. I found this on a Nissan dealer's website. Have not tried it myself:

[Veaux]

Same issue with mine. I have an intelligent key and still a key switch. The remotes do not work anymore since my main battery in the ar died for a long period. Both intelligent key are not working anymore and I tried the solution provided by phmichel to no avail :/

I'd hate to go to the dealership just for that

[VStar650CL]

Same issue with mine. I have an intelligent key and still a key switch. The remotes do not work anymore since my main battery in the ar died for a long period. Both intelligent key are not working anymore and I tried the solution provided by phmichel to no avail :/

Do they still start the car with the key inside, or do you need to use the hard key, or does it not start at all? If it's a total no-start or only starts with the hard key,, chances are your BCM is damaged, but it's possible it simply lost its brains trying to read its EEPROM with the battery voltage in never-never land. You can try having a dealer or locksmith reprogram the fobs to the car. If the fobs start the car normally and only the buttons don't work, there's a very good chance the BCM just has corrupt data that can be fixed by reprogramming (although you might also have a damaged RKE receiver).

[bradlemmond]

(I'm OP, not Veaux) I only changed the battery in one key, after that one didn't work I left the other one alone and it still works. The one that doesn't work will only work with the hard key inside in the lock or ignition. I did drop it when I was changing the battery, could that have effected it?

[VStar650CL]

(I'm OP, not Veaux) I only changed the battery in one key, after that one didn't work I left the other one alone and it still works. The one that doesn't work will only work with the hard key inside in the lock or ignition. I did drop it when I was changing the battery, could that have effected it?

Yes, if you dropped the circuit-board portion it could certainly have been damaged. The rubber button-pad tends to cushion the PCB against shock when the key is assembled, but taken apart it's vulnerable.

[bradlemmond]

Thank you. What's the best way to replace it? Should I order a replacement online and look for a locksmith that can program it?

[VStar650CL]

You can try having it reprogrammed, if it's damaged the program simply won't take. If that's the case then you'll need a new fob.

[bradlemmond]

Thank you for the information!!

[Veaux]

Same issue with mine. I have an intelligent key and still a key switch. The remotes do not work anymore since my main battery in the ar died for a long period. Both intelligent key are not working anymore and I tried the solution provided by phmichel to no avail :/

Do they still start the car with the key inside, or do you need to use the hard key, or does it not start at all? If it's a total no-start or only starts with the hard key,, chances are your BCM is damaged, but it's possible it simply lost its brains trying to read its EEPROM with the battery voltage in never-never land. You can try having a dealer or locksmith reprogram the fobs to the car. If the fobs start the car normally and only the buttons don't work, there's a very good chance the BCM just has corrupt data that can be fixed by reprogramming (although you might also have a damaged RKE receiver).

darn, I didn't see the notifications... I have to use the hard key. With any of the FOBs. I probed the fuse and it's ok. I'm scheduling a visit to the dealer :/ I tried to follow the secuences that appear online but that's not working. (put in and remove the key 6 to 10 times etc...).

[Veaux]

well... not sure if to laugh, cry, being worried or not but my problem resolved by itself. I had time without trying the car. I just went in for a last time check before my appointment at nissan dealer tomorrow and... both intelligent keys work... I didn't do a thing...

Hope it stays that way because that would mean the BCM may be intermittently faulty. Where is ti located in the car to take a look at the cables? Old car and they may be toasted... making false connection.

[VStar650CL]

Hope it stays that way because that would mean the BCM may be intermittently faulty. Where is ti located in the car to take a look at the cables? Old car and they may be toasted... making false connection.

Were they not starting the car, or just the buttons didn't work? You don't have a vehicle in your profile so I can't tell the MY to pull up diagrams, but you need to understand that there are three completely separate systems inside any I-key. One is RFID, which on a gen1 Rogue is inside the hard key and gets read when you insert it, just like an old-style "smart key". The second is the inside antenna system, which uses GHz frequencies similar to bluetooth and is read by antennas directly connected to the BCM. The third is the fob buttons, which use "garage door" FM frequencies and have their own separate "smart antenna" that communicates indirectly with the BCM. In light of that, you can't just lump symptoms into "the car won't start" or "the car won't open". Specific behavior of "it will do this and this but it won't do that and that" is absolutely necessary to any sort of diagnosis.

[Veaux]

Hope it stays that way because that would mean the BCM may be intermittently faulty. Where is ti located in the car to take a look at the cables? Old car and they may be toasted... making false connection.

Were they not starting the car, or just the buttons didn't work? You don't have a vehicle in your profile so I can't tell the MY to pull up diagrams, but you need to understand that there are three completely separate systems inside any I-key. One is RFID, which on a gen1 Rogue is inside the hard key and gets read when you insert it, just like an old-style "smart key". The second is the inside antenna system, which uses GHz frequencies similar to bluetooth and is read by antennas directly connected to the BCM. The third is the fob buttons, which use "garage door" FM frequencies and have their own separate "smart antenna" that communicates indirectly with the BCM. In light of that, you can't just lump symptoms into "the car won't start" or "the car won't open". Specific behavior of "it will do this and this but it won't do that and that" is absolutely necessary to any sort of diagnosis.

Ok I fixed that. This is a 2011 Rogue SL. It has an intelligent key. To open the doors it's either by pressing the button on hte fob or the cushion on the door handle. The fob has a "real key" inside it and the steeling column has a normal "thingy" to put it in and turn. No start stop button. (key picture in attached).

Until one hour ago the remote function was not working and I actually had to put the real key in the steering column to start the car. I had to do that for months. Suddently it worked... when trying it again. Not sure what happened. The problem started when my car 12V battery died for not using the car for weeks.

Now, it works like new... this is odd.

[VStar650CL]

That doesn't sound like a wiring issue. Since both the inside and button systems quit working, it sounds like the BCM firmware got goofy when the battery voltage went down into "never-never land" around 8V. We've seen that before, and usually it will clear up immediately if you disconnect battery-minus for about 10 seconds and then reconnect with a healthy battery voltage. Or, as happened in your case, it often just clears itself after an undetermined while. Other subsystems are sometimes affected too, because the CANbus doesn't quit trying to function when Vbat falls below 9V, but at about 8.5V all the systems on the vehicle start getting communication errors and bad messages. Weird things can result.

If you want to check the BCM wiring anyway, on your ride it's behind the glove box.

[Veaux]

Thanks for the explanation! I really appreciate this.

[VStar650CL]

Happy to help. Happy motoring!