Do they still start the car with the key inside, or do you need to use the hard key, or does it not start at all? If it's a total no-start or only starts with the hard key,, chances are your BCM is damaged, but it's possible it simply lost its brains trying to read its EEPROM with the battery voltage in never-never land. You can try having a dealer or locksmith reprogram the fobs to the car. If the fobs start the car normally and only the buttons don't work, there's a very good chance the BCM just has corrupt data that can be fixed by reprogramming (although you might also have a damaged RKE receiver).Veaux wrote: ↑Tue Mar 16, 2021 2:17 pmSame issue with mine. I have an intelligent key and still a key switch. The remotes do not work anymore since my main battery in the ar died for a long period. Both intelligent key are not working anymore and I tried the solution provided by phmichel to no avail :/
Yes, if you dropped the circuit-board portion it could certainly have been damaged. The rubber button-pad tends to cushion the PCB against shock when the key is assembled, but taken apart it's vulnerable.bradlemmond wrote: ↑Sun Mar 21, 2021 11:39 am(I'm OP, not Veaux) I only changed the battery in one key, after that one didn't work I left the other one alone and it still works. The one that doesn't work will only work with the hard key inside in the lock or ignition. I did drop it when I was changing the battery, could that have effected it?
darn, I didn't see the notifications... I have to use the hard key. With any of the FOBs. I probed the fuse and it's ok. I'm scheduling a visit to the dealer :/ I tried to follow the secuences that appear online but that's not working. (put in and remove the key 6 to 10 times etc...).VStar650CL wrote: ↑Tue Mar 16, 2021 5:47 pmDo they still start the car with the key inside, or do you need to use the hard key, or does it not start at all? If it's a total no-start or only starts with the hard key,, chances are your BCM is damaged, but it's possible it simply lost its brains trying to read its EEPROM with the battery voltage in never-never land. You can try having a dealer or locksmith reprogram the fobs to the car. If the fobs start the car normally and only the buttons don't work, there's a very good chance the BCM just has corrupt data that can be fixed by reprogramming (although you might also have a damaged RKE receiver).Veaux wrote: ↑Tue Mar 16, 2021 2:17 pmSame issue with mine. I have an intelligent key and still a key switch. The remotes do not work anymore since my main battery in the ar died for a long period. Both intelligent key are not working anymore and I tried the solution provided by phmichel to no avail :/
Were they not starting the car, or just the buttons didn't work? You don't have a vehicle in your profile so I can't tell the MY to pull up diagrams, but you need to understand that there are three completely separate systems inside any I-key. One is RFID, which on a gen1 Rogue is inside the hard key and gets read when you insert it, just like an old-style "smart key". The second is the inside antenna system, which uses GHz frequencies similar to bluetooth and is read by antennas directly connected to the BCM. The third is the fob buttons, which use "garage door" FM frequencies and have their own separate "smart antenna" that communicates indirectly with the BCM. In light of that, you can't just lump symptoms into "the car won't start" or "the car won't open". Specific behavior of "it will do this and this but it won't do that and that" is absolutely necessary to any sort of diagnosis.
Ok I fixed that. This is a 2011 Rogue SL. It has an intelligent key. To open the doors it's either by pressing the button on hte fob or the cushion on the door handle. The fob has a "real key" inside it and the steeling column has a normal "thingy" to put it in and turn. No start stop button. (key picture in attached).VStar650CL wrote: ↑Tue May 18, 2021 4:42 pmWere they not starting the car, or just the buttons didn't work? You don't have a vehicle in your profile so I can't tell the MY to pull up diagrams, but you need to understand that there are three completely separate systems inside any I-key. One is RFID, which on a gen1 Rogue is inside the hard key and gets read when you insert it, just like an old-style "smart key". The second is the inside antenna system, which uses GHz frequencies similar to bluetooth and is read by antennas directly connected to the BCM. The third is the fob buttons, which use "garage door" FM frequencies and have their own separate "smart antenna" that communicates indirectly with the BCM. In light of that, you can't just lump symptoms into "the car won't start" or "the car won't open". Specific behavior of "it will do this and this but it won't do that and that" is absolutely necessary to any sort of diagnosis.