First Engine rebuild - what am I getting into?

[MoldyOldy240]

Alright; so last night I just inherited a KA24DE that blew a head gasket (it was an NA with low comp pistons). Traded a case of beer for it. I currently have to source a head for it.

I’d like to make it a solid engine for daily driving and to test and document certain power improvements with bolt-ons. I’m doing this for my own education and so I can obtain a better understanding of how cars work.

Through reading these forums here is what I know I need:

Gaskets – Sticking with OEM for everything but the head gasket; I will be using a cometic one.Head Studs – ARPRods – Eagle’sPistons – CP pistons – unless someone has a better suggestion (i.e: Cheaper but still reliable)Timing chain with sprockets (OEM)Oil/water pump – OEM

Have a shop clean and magna flux the blockOnce I source a head, new valves, retainers and shims (I don’t know where to obtain the cam shims).

Since I have never done this before I’m taking it slow lol. I haven’t looked but does the FSM have all the torque specs I would need to assemble?Are there any note worthy steps that I must know (like order of tightening, etc.)?Does anyone have a website/book/dvd/forum post that they think I should read?

Thanks gang!

[Chris28]

I haven’t looked but does the FSM have all the torque specs I would need to assemble?Are there any note worthy steps that I must know (like order of tightening, etc.)?Does anyone have a website/book/dvd/forum post that they think I should read?

Thanks gang!

Yes, the FSM has all the torque specs.

FSM tells you the loosening and tightening order of everything, but most notably the head bolts and cradle bolts are the ones that you need to pay attention to.

Uhhh there was a website i saw a few months ago with just pics of the rebuild, but it's really straightforward. I think the most complicated part of the engine is the intake manifold lol. What I did was take off the intake manifold and rebuilt that first, before even taking the valve cover off. That way you can remember where all the vacuum and coolant hoses go. After you put that back together then set it aside and start taking apart the engine. What I did was with all the brackets and stuff that go on the sides of the block, I just took off the brackets and put the bolts back where they go. The valve cover comes off with all those bolts on top, then loosen the cams. Next take off the upper an d lower front covers, before you take off the lower cover take off the crankshaft pulley. Take the cams off all the way and take off the chains, then you have access to the head bolts. They are allen bolts btw. Take the head off and you can see the pistons. Take the oil pan off, flip the engine over, remove the oil strainer, and remove the crank cradle. Then you can loosen the rod bolts. Once those were off I got an extension and put it into the bottom of the pistons and tapped them downwards so they came out the top of the engine (engine was upside down remember). I didn't care about the bottom of my pistons or the cylinder wall because I have new oversized pistons. After that, you can take off the rear main oil seal plate thing and then tap the crank upwards with a rubber mallet so it comes out. Bam...you have the block just chillin there. With the bolts all in the side of the block I got some styrofoam and put the bolts into the styrofoam in the same pattern as they came out of the block so I know where each bolt goes. 2 pieces of styrofoam, one for each side of the block.

With the head, turn it upside down so the cam buckets/shims/whatever they are fall out, and MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THEM IN ORDER, THEY NEED TO GO BACK IN IN THE SAME SPOTS!!! Then get a valve compressor tool and you can take the valves out and replace the valve seals. Take the whole shebang to the machine shop, wait for them to call you back, go pick it up and put it all back together.

Congrats, you have a brand new KA ready to be boosted...or in your case, a reliable daily driver haha. Good luck.

-Chris

[MoldyOldy240]

Thanks for the helpful post; once I move into my new place I will take pictures of everything.

My going to boost my other engine once I finish this one. I just figured it would be nice to walk before I run ^_^
Modified by MoldyOldy240 at 12:01 PM 12/3/2008

[Chris28]

Haha yeah, I figured I've walked (more like limped...running on 3 cylinders) for long enough, it's time for some real power. I'm going to attempt to take pics of the rebuild process and make a write up, but if you take pics of the tear down process maybe they could be combined for the ultimate KA write up!

What are your plans for the engine that is going to be boosted? I just got a standard rebuild kit from top-line, but with oversize pistons and a toga high volume oil pump. I'm going for a small but reliable setup, just a t25 with sr 370cc injectors. Hopefully around 250 hp at like 10 psi, but i'll daily it at stock boost. 10 psi is for the hondas

[sniperbill3]

you definently want to go slow with boost because in my experience if you over do i you will pay in the long run

[MoldyOldy240]

What I would like to do is the 2.6 stroke with a 10-12 boost; but then I think my reliability will go down the tubes (I have to do a bit more research on that).

If I don't go that route, then I will probably stick with a similar setup that you described.

That engine will be insane though; probably take me a while to assemble and detail to my liking

[Razi]

I'm not sure if increasing the stroke is such a good idea.The KA already has a long stroke in my opinion.

But I'll be watching this thread well I'm planning to buy a KA sometime in the future and blueprinting it.

[Chris28]

could you explain to me what blueprinting it is? Is it just having everything balanced and like fully counterweighted? Thanks

[Razi]

It's returning it back to stock form, a simple rebuild to make it like it was when it came out of the factory.

[psmith]

With the head, turn it upside down so the cam buckets/shims/whatever they are fall out, and MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THEM IN ORDER, THEY NEED TO GO BACK IN IN THE SAME SPOTS!!!

-Chris

I used a magnet for this process instead of turning the head over. Then used a fishing tackle box to keep it all in order.I agree 100% with everything else. I am using the FSM from 240edge and a book called the "Engine Builder's Handbook". G/L with the re-build...

[liquid_cool]

could you explain to me what blueprinting it is? Is it just having everything balanced and like fully counterweighted? Thanks

Blueprinting an engine is NOT returning it back to factory specs...as a matter of fact..factory specs are rather loose when it comes to tolorances...blueprinting involves meashuring and maching things down to a nats butt (0.0001) if ya use a machineshop or (0.001) if ya do it at homw..where as (.010+-) is usually where factory specs range from..does this make a difference....yes...say for instance your gapping a compression ring..the close to its HOT expanded gap..the better the sealing it has..factory compressions rings have a +- tolorance of half a MM...thats alot in the world of rings...everything on a blueprinted block is decked,line honed(main journals) for trueness, and meshured to make a properfitment..to increase its durability to withstand higher horsepower..

this is only a fraction of the world of engine blueprinting..if ya want a better understanding..by the (SA) book "Engine Blueprinting" its 20 bucks and worth every dime.

for the poster asking about cheeper pistons for the ka...i prefer "supertech" pistons..there cheep..sold singly..and are guaranteed to withstand 45psi boost..allso they come with a free..thats rite FREE dyry coating lubricant...this is my choice..yours may vary.

[MoldyOldy240]

***SMALL UPDATE***

HOLY THREAD RESURRECTION BATMAN!

Alright; sorry for the slow update, but this last month has been insane (excuses at the bottom of the post)

I sourced the original head; going to cost me another case of beer though :P

Started ripping off the thermo and oil plate; nothing scary there.

I should (TM) be getting the thing in the stand and the pan unbolted once I get some tools replaced ($300+ in tools were stolen from me 6 months ago, along with my transmission bolts).

Excuses:** 60+hours a week working, plus I picked up a second job working for webridestv.com** Holidays** Met a wonderful girl** Beer** Speeding ticket

I found some fun material and ordered the DVD to rebuild datsun/nissan I-4's

I'm leaning towards the CP Pistons with Crower Rods as well as a total BC valvetrain with stage 2 cams. I figure I might as well go all out if I am going to do this :P

[dirtyfingers2]

dont forget once you get it all....that tuning is the most important part.

also for the head cam shims i think i saw them on partsdinosaur or jis.comor you can get a rebuilt head for about $400-500.but make sure its the same casting as the original. i know the s14 is a 70f casting.

good luck

[Hype]

Bump for an update. I sent you mail around December, musta hit your spam filter I'm in SD also, wondering if you found a good machine shop around here. I've got an S14 block half torn down, ready for the hot tank and all that jazz. I also bought a vert for $400 with a blown head, wanna get that looked at for warpage before I throw a gasket at it.