Finished turbo install yesterday, car runs like crap, got some Q's

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Kouki Monster
Posts: 72
Joined: Sat Jan 15, 2005 1:03 am
Car: '91 White Pearl 240SX, '98 Moss Green Pearl Metallic 240SX

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Problem # 1: The car does not boost past 1 psiProblem # 2: The car idles jumpy at 1500-2000 rpm

Question # 1: I swapped the compressor housing on this T3 from another blown T3 because I spent 2 days polishing the stupid thing, should I have also swapped the compressor wheel from the other turbo? I'm thinking maybe these blades have a slightly different shape/curve and are not forming a tight enough seal along the inside of the compressor housing to creat any boost.

Question # 2: In doing the swap we also eliminated my EGR. Are there any other vaccum lines/hoses that need to be capped off other than the hole that the valve itself bolts to? @ 2000rpm I have about -21psi of vaccum pressure but I'm sure at a normal idle it would be much less so I'm sure I have a leak somewhere.

I have a few other little things to tinker with like fuel tuning (I put in a 300ZX fuel pump w/ SR20 370cc's, tuned by S-AFCII), but I need to get my vaccum/boost pressures under control before I can do that. I also have an oil leak in my feed line I need to deal with, but that will be an easy fix as soon as I get the right part.

Anyways if any of you have some input that could help me out I would appreciate it, I paid way too much money to be driving around @ 1psi, LOL, although open dump does sound cool


nissanfanatic
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Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 8:41 pm
Car: 1992 Nissan 240sx SE
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Alright, what exactly does the car do when you hit 1psi? I know my car would stop at 1 with hesitation due to plug gap and then it started again because of a bad coil. Vacuum should be at 20-22in HG at idle. Check for boost leaks. Get back to us.

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hysteria
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Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2005 6:22 am
Car: s13 kat, sv650s, and other projects

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when i removed my egr, i removed the freaking thing and covered the intake manifold inlet for egr with some sheet metal, some bolts and silicon. if it doesn't boost past 1 psi then you most likely have a leak, and you're probably overworking your turbo like crazy because it's just spooling without bound to make only 1 psi and the wastegate never opens. stop boosting until you fix the leak, if that is in fact the problem.

here's what i did specifically when i installed my turbo:the stock vacuum setup sucks. there are a lot of things on the car that you can eliminate if you want to. when i installed my turbo i took off the intake manifold completely and worked with all of this outside of the car because i had to close off my aicv because it was crappy and i eliminated egr because i didn't want it anymore. with this comes the joy of ripping off all of the old vacuum lines and then making your own vacuum setup, with new silicon lines, if wanted.

anyway so i removed the egr control deal that ius mounted on the back of the valve cover. the map sensor is also back there, and i removed that also because the map sensor on our cars doesn't actually control anything.. it's just a check valve kind of thing, according to nissan. so i took that off and removed the crap in back of the valve cover (there's a metal vacuum line routing contraption). pretty much i then started from scratch and used the vacuum ports on the manifold to rig up vacuum lines to my bov, wastegate, fmu, and a few other things. i took off the vacuum for the charcoal canister in the front and blocked that off. the vacuum control valve things for crank case ventilation (i think that's what it is... )my terminology sucks right now, but i'm in a hurry... i have to go write up a lab report.

my car runs great, no leaks and makes perfect vacuum and boost. i'll try to get some pictures of what i am talking about... what i did was simple, and it works great.

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Nicksemianiw
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Joined: Fri Jan 21, 2005 8:06 pm
Car: JDM 89 Silvia K's

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nissanfanatic wrote:Alright, what exactly does the car do when you hit 1psi? I know my car would stop at 1 with hesitation due to plug gap and then it started again because of a bad coil. Vacuum should be at 20-22in HG at idle. Check for boost leaks. Get back to us.
my vac is at about 14-15 PSI is that bad?

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Kouki Monster
Posts: 72
Joined: Sat Jan 15, 2005 1:03 am
Car: '91 White Pearl 240SX, '98 Moss Green Pearl Metallic 240SX

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Hehe, forget it. I was driving home from work yesterday and managed to blow a chunk out of my block about the size of my thumb. I've already got another motor that's in way better condition than the one that blew up, so I'm probably actually better off, but I'm scheduled to go to a track day next weekend so the timing could not be worse. I REALLY didn't want to rush putting this other motor in but it looks like I have no choice now. I've gotta pull out the old motor, swap over the turbo components, and put in the new motor pretty much in 1 day, plus I wanted to do some paint work to my engine bay while it's empty. I know I'm probably better off in the long run, but man this sucks! Oh well...

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koukiKA240
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Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:18 am
Car: 1991 240sx KA-T

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take ur time. Re examine everything, there will be other track days.~Sam

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S14tat
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Car: 2007 FX35
1994 Acura NSX
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i don't think putting in a new engine is goin to prevent it being blown again. i suggest checking the wastegate signal source. are you running a internal or external wastegate?

IanS13
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Joined: Sun May 09, 2004 9:27 am

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my vac use to be around 16 but i had a mojor boost leak that is now fixed and now my vac is at 20-22 most of the time.

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Kouki Monster
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Joined: Sat Jan 15, 2005 1:03 am
Car: '91 White Pearl 240SX, '98 Moss Green Pearl Metallic 240SX

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I'm running an internal wastegate that I "think" has a spring pressure around 7-8psi but I can't be sure. I adjusted the arm pretty firm to be sure it wasn't opening prematurely, but it still never boosted above 1 psi. I think I've chased down one of my biggest problems. I'm going to swap the wheel from my other turbo because I think the contour of the current blades and compressor housing don't match, so I'm going to snatch the wheel from the turbo that this compressor housing came off of so I get a tighter fit on the compressor side. I think the wheel on the other turbo is a bit more agressive anyways so if that turns out to be the problem then I should be set. We're going to start the motor swap tomorrow, and try to have it doen "right" by this Saturday. I've got a chance to get some discounted dyno time through a group on Saturday so if I can get the swap done and all the major bugs worked out I can get some decent fuel tuning done, then on Sunday is the track day. I'll keep you guys updated. I appreciate the advice. If anyone has anything else they think I should know, please please chime in!


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