Fine-Tuning needed, suggestions please...

[myRed240]

I've recently completed my turbo install and it seems to need some fine tuning. It starts and idles high ~ 1500 rpm and then settles around 900 when warmed up. The A/F's when idling vary anywhere between 14.1-16.4.

When I drive it around the neighborhood, the A/F's are in the range of 14.5-15.8. When I get on it it, goes down to ~ 11-12.5. (Nothing higher than 3500rpms yet).

After a few minutes of putting around the 'hood, it'll occasionally stall when approaching a stop. I believe it's flooding with fuel at this point. My bov is recirc'd, but I know I'll need a larger recirc fitting. I took smaller spring out and loosened the screw all the way and it's better than before, but still wants to stall.

Vacuum hovers ~ 19-20 at idle.

I was under the impression that I'd be fine with just the Enthalpy tune, but it's looking like I'll need something else to fine tune the fuel situation. Suggestions?

What can I troubleshoot? Plug gap? MAF placement? MAF condition?

My set-up:AMS GT32Enthalpy ECUDW 555cc injectorsZ32 MAFNGK BKR7E gapped ~ 42AEM widebandAEM Truboost controllerAEM oil pressure gaugeJGS manifoldGReddy RS bov(recirc'd)Tial wgZ32tt fuel filterWalbro fuel pumpJRC FMIC~2.5 inch piping

THANKS!!!!

[Chezedik]

Where is the BOV recirc'd to?

[myRed240]

In between MAF and turbo.

I believe the recirc fitting is too small, so I'm going to try and get a larger fitting and hope that helps. Before I spend more $$ on the SAFC.

Another question: If I get the SAFCII to tune, can I leave the BOV vented to atmosphere if I want?

Also, I removed the smaller spring in the bov and that helped, do you know if it will be ok to replace the small spring, and then remove the large spring?

[S13FX]

Actually something like a SAFC to just fine tune AFR would be perfect, and it will also allow you to run a vented bov. Thats what I used to do when I tuned my own eproms. Just made a perfect table for timing and a rich ball park AFR and then just fine tuned with my SAFC, worked like a charm with no knock what so ever.

[Chezedik]

Yes, I prefer the idea of emanage, but to each his own. You can set decel settings on SAFC or clamp the A/F settings v. TPS on emanage, using the antistall feature. Also, you would get some degree of timing and fuel control. And you could tune based on MAP. Plus the price is about the same as the SAFC2.

EDIT: Is your recirc fitting on your intake (between MAF and turbo) angled or entering straight in?

[frsh13]

With your setup you should be able to drive the car good with out any AFC tuning. More horsepower and torque through some fine tuning is not a bad idea though. You might want to find your real problem first though, my guess is you have to get that larger BOV fiting, and get the BOV situation right. I am running a similar setup and have the BOV vented to atmosphere, with no AFC, and no problems. Do you have your IACV hooked up right?

[extreme135]

I would lower your plug gap some too to 28-30

[WDRacing]

Well, troubleshooting the BOV problem is super easy. Simply block it off and see if it still stall. If it does, BOV isn't the problem. The extrememly high idle is suspect. Should be at 1000 or so when its cold, then dropping down to 800 when warm. But I don't see that actually being a stall causing issue.

Does your IACV hose come straight from the IC pipe to the IACV line? Is it kinked at all? Your vacuum is correct...I assume your timing is set to base.

Is the MAF atleast 12" from the turbo? How close to the MAF is the BOV return hose?

Try blocking the BOV for now, you won't damage anything. It takes ALOT more then running no BOV for a few days to damage the turbo. Also, as you stall, what are the AFR's like?

WD

[KATwo40]

I smell a leak.

Maybe make a $10 boost leak tester first?

[myRed240]

Wow, thanks for all of the input.

Yes, the IACV goes directly to the cold pipe, in the same location as my AEM intake had it.

I do feel as though my bov recirc is the prob, as it dumps straight into the pipe and isn't angled towards the turbo.

I'm going to measure the MAF distance, but I believe it's around 8" away. There really wasn't much room for me to work with for the MAF.

I'm going to lower the plug gaps a little while I'm at it and try to eliminate the bov as the culprit. I'll also triple check for leaks again. There are two suspect spots, but haven't been able to eliminate them 100%.

Can you give me more info on the boost leak tester?

Thanks guys!

[KATwo40]

Go to Home Depot and get the appropriate size PVC plumbing cap. Drill a hole in it to accomodate an air chuck fitting.

Fasten to the compressor inlet via hose clamps and silicone coupler, hit it with shop air to your desired boost pressure and listen for leaks. You'll be amazed at how many you hear!

Here's a pic of mine.