Finding wires for remote start 2000 i30

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si2ki30
Posts: 22
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 8:28 pm

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I recently installed a CrimeStopper RS-4g2 remote start in my 2000 i30 along with an OFA-10 transponder bypass and I'm pretty satisfied with the results.

I had trouble finding a couple of wires, so I'm wondering if anyone can shed some light on their (easily accessible) location/colors for the following functions:

(-) output pulse to horn for chirp

(-) to turn on parking lights
This was listed on a site as LIGHT BLUE at HEADLIGHT SWITCH, but when I probed that, it was at 12V+ even when the car was off completely.
>or<
(+) to turn on parking lights
This was listed as RED/BLUE at DRIVERS KICKPANEL, but both the left and the right kick panels for the driver have a MASSIVE bundle of wires that looks scary.

The remote start I have can send either (-) or (+) to the correct wire to turn the lights on, just need an easy wire to find.

(-) or (+) pulse to turn on air recirculation on AC headunit

If anyone is interested, I can post a list of which wires I used and where I found them for installing the RS-4g2


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the converted
Posts: 2767
Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 7:14 am
Car: '99 BMW M3 6.0
'88 Toyota Celica All-Trac (somewhere in Cali)
'20 Toyota Tacoma
Location: Boston

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That light blue at the switch should meter 12v when off and 0v when on (assuming you have the positive wire from your meter on the wire and the negative grounded to the chassis) Horn should be a green/white next to the steering column under the dash. It looks like there is a can bus for the a/c system, so you'd have to do some funny work in the control unit itself to make that work

si2ki30
Posts: 22
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 8:28 pm

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the converted wrote:That light blue at the switch should meter 12v when off and 0v when on (assuming you have the positive wire from your meter on the wire and the negative grounded to the chassis) Horn should be a green/white next to the steering column under the dash. It looks like there is a can bus for the a/c system, so you'd have to do some funny work in the control unit itself to make that work
(+12V) That's what I experienced when I put my meter's positive probe on the light blue, and negative probe to chassis. (with the lights off)

I'm a little confused on how to activate the lights with situation - wouldn't applying (-) ground to the light blue wire short something, and applying (+) to that wire do nothing?

User avatar
the converted
Posts: 2767
Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 7:14 am
Car: '99 BMW M3 6.0
'88 Toyota Celica All-Trac (somewhere in Cali)
'20 Toyota Tacoma
Location: Boston

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Think of it as a circuit with a switch on the negative side, once you give it a path to ground, it will work. If you measure it with the lights on it should read 0 volts.


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