finaly starting on the motor build

[EODguy036]

finaly done with the suspention and starting on the motor. 350whp goal, plan is to do all internals, put the motor back in and when i have all the turbo parts boost it. here is the list of what im thinking

kelford stage 2 camssupertech .5mm over intake valves and .7mm exhaustsupertech springsjwt cam gearsapr head studswiseco 9.0/1 90mm pistonseagle rodsport/pollish headline hone cam guidesbore to fit pistons

cant find bronze valve guides, and would like to know your opinions on best head gaskits, gaskit sets, bearings, and if their is anything i am forgeting or that would be good to do while the motor is out please let me know.

[Chris28]

Cometic makes good head gaskets, but people say they have problems with them sealing. If you are using ARP studs and torque to the correct ft-lbs, then I don't see why they would leak. Fel-pro also makes a good head gasket, and I think they are fine for your power goal.

You might want to look into copper head gaskets. I know there was a thread on them a while ago but it never really had any leads. A few places offer them, but the jury was out on whether or not they should be ringed or something like that.

Good luck with the build, it seems like you have a nice parts list.

[koukiFC]

to me, in a ka the cam gears are a waste imo. id spend that extra money from the gears and add a 5 angle valve job in the headwork.

the felpro gaskets have been ran on 500 hp motors all day long but i perfer cometic.

i would go with king or clevite bearings on that part

other than that you put a gt28 on there with the right fuel and youl hit 350 no problem

[coupesx]

Cometic makes good head gaskets, but people say they have problems with them sealing. If you are using ARP studs and torque to the correct ft-lbs, then I don't see why they would leak. Fel-pro also makes a good head gasket, and I think they are fine for your power goal.

You might want to look into copper head gaskets. I know there was a thread on them a while ago but it never really had any leads. A few places offer them, but the jury was out on whether or not they should be ringed or something like that.

If your cylinder head and block both have the proper finish on them an cometic mls will seal fine. As for copper head gaskets your block needs to be o-ringed by a machine shop, this o-ring becomes the combustion chamber "fire ring", in other words what seals the combustion chamer to the head. IMO copper is not worth using unless you have very high hp goals.

[WDRacing]

other than that you put a gt28 on there with the right fuel and youl hit 350 no problem

Untrue. The GT28 is a restrictive heat pump at the boost lelevel required for it to make 350whp. We've had several members blow out gaskets because there is so much back pressure from using a small T2 flange.

The next thing will be exhaust gas reversion.

The T2 is to friggin small for any decent power on the KA unless you use some twin wastegated manifold and a GT2871 or better. Even then, the same or more power can be made by using a $450 T3/TO4.

I can't even fathom why people STILL use the damn T2...cheap SOB's.

[Chris28]

I can't even fathom why people STILL use the damn T2...cheap SOB's.

[EODguy036]

looking at compressor maps and picking out a turbo as we speek, or type rather. its going to be a dd/ autox car so im thinking A/R .48. what would the 5 angle job do, increase air flow?

[WDRacing]

Nothing personal homie. The GT28 is a great turbo for a low boost setup where no lag is more important then decent power. If I were only planning on 8-10 psi and no more, I'd use a GT28 myself. But I know first hand what the boost bug does to you. If a little is good, then a bunch more must be friggin awsome

WD

[Chris28]

Haha it's cool WD, I kick myself every time I think about why I didn't go top mount t3/t4. I'm having fun with the t2 setup, but eventually I will upgrade.

OP, you should add a nice clutch to that list. I don't know if you have already upgraded, but my clutch is slipping now and I'm only at 10 lbs on a t28. Probably not even 220 whp.

[EODguy036]

already got a spec stage 3, its rated for more than what im trying for so i should be good there. also thinking about going ahead and getting new water and oil pumps while im at it.

in that 750hp ka-t build the guys at turbo mag used an sr20 pulley set and also used odk coil packs. any ideas how they did it?

[EODguy036]

so for my compressor map selection i calculated a 2.55 presure ratio and 44 psia, i used a bsfc of .55 (500cc injectors and 350hp), intake manifold temp of 120, volumetric efficiency of 97%. wanted to know if the bsfc, temp, and ve sounded right to you guys

Modified by EODguy036 at 12:55 AM 8/11/2009
Modified by EODguy036 at 1:08 AM 8/11/2009

[motoman399]

in that 750hp ka-t build the guys at turbo mag used an sr20 pulley set and also used odk coil packs. any ideas how they did it?

i saw that and was curious myself

[kouki_hmongster]

in that 750hp ka-t build the guys at turbo mag used an sr20 pulley set and also used odk coil packs. any ideas how they did it?

From what i remember reading in the mag, they had the pullys machined to fit. and if anyone wants to go coilpack you would need somekind of standalone unit. right now just do the MSD Blaster SS coil DIY upgrade and you should be fine, idle will be a lot smoother and so will acceleration. Combine this with the quest alternator and say bye bye to spark blowout.

[EODguy036]

thanks for the ignition advice kouki_hmongster. thats pretty cool that they make sr pulleys fit a ka. anyone have any experiance with the GT3071R? here is the map



i think it would work well for me and my 2.55 pressure ratio, and corrected air flow of 44lb

[D-UNIT]

I can't even fathom why people STILL use the damn T2...cheap SOB's.

Compared to a $450 T3/TO4 a $1100 GT2871 ain't cheap!! But a $250 intercooler kit w/ all the pipes , clamps and hoses and a $150 BM header that all bolts up after cutting a few body holes sweetens the deal.

[EODguy036]

so then what do you guys think would be a good turbo for 16psi (350whp) ish? i was thinking an a/r .48 so i could build boost faster, but i dont know what size would be best for the amount of boost i want to run.

p.s. im thinking about switching from the 272 cam to a 264 to keep the power in the low end more.

[GTR PrYdE]

The 3071r spools great but is expensive and only good for around 400whp.

50 trim and .63 ar is cheap and spools good.

The .48ar will probably become a restriction around 300whp.

[WDRacing]

AZHitman was running 20psi with his T3/TO4E 50 trim compressor, .48AR hotside with a stg3 wheel and was making over 400whp. No traction to speak of and what I considered NO lag at all.

The T3/T04E is and always will be your best bang/buck turbo for the KA. I don't give a crap what anyone else has to say, it's awsome and has been proven time and again to make great power for cheap $$$. That's a win in my book every time.

[AZhitman]

Minor correction: Never ran more than 15psi. I keep it around 12 for daily driving.

[WDRacing]

Huh...I could have sworn you weren't a wuss

Fiznat ran 20psi and laid down 420whp on a tune he did himself with the AEM EMS. That was with stock cams and such to...

[EODguy036]

ok so i found a t3/304e that i like, but the question is ball baering ($1150) or thrust baering ($695). is the ball baering worth the extra money?

[D-UNIT]

Well if you want to hit full boost 400-500rpm faster BB is the way to go. Plus you can't beat that Ball bearing spooling sound woot!!! But thrust bearing is rebuildable , BB is not.

[EODguy036]

do ball baering's last longer?

[D-UNIT]

As long as you run the correct oil restrictor , use the water cooling feature and change your oil properly , it should last way longer than a thrust bearing type.