Finally started my KA-T project!!! but now some issues=(

[doriftomunkee]

alright guys. I finally finished my car (well enough to get it started and running, cleaning it up is for later). Here's my set up:

115k stock motorxs power manifoldt25 sr turbocheapturbolines.com oil line kitcustom fmic3inch turbo elbow/dp/tp/gt spec catback370ccz32 fuel filtersafc intakeoil pressure/air-fuel ratio/boost gaugessr20det fuel pump

well finished installin the safc and gauges tonight so i decided to crank and start the car. I took the fuel pump fuse off so i can build oil pressure before i finally start it. The weird thing is that my car cranked and cranked and turned over (w/c is normal till the fuel goes out and stalls.) When it turned over i saw oil pressure on my gauge so I decided to put the fuel pump back on. Now the car wont even start. Just cranks and sometimes just seems to short out like a electrical problem. So i put the fuel pump fuse back on and WALA! car starts and idles but very rough at around 800-900 but car shakes like crazy and blows black smoke.

HISTORY-I have done basically everything at once with this car. Its more of a full project for me. It was an auto stock motor that was running but had problems with transmission. The car drove so i know the motor and car was perfectly fine. Once I finally started working on it, I just pulled the motor to do the 5spd swap and at the same time go KA-T since motor was out. Well I finally finished so here I am now=/

The SAFC is set for 370cc settings. (5in5out/4cyc->up/low-27%across,high-10%across/hotwire,etc). I did use the fsm for the pinouts and colors. I followed it but who knows if that could be the problem. I will double check it again tomorrow. I also ran the power and ground wires of my gauges to the ecu harness.

While I was at it everything was replaced such as new vacuum and fuel lines and such things. I appreciate and thank you guys in advance for your input and hope i can resolve this and get this car running on the road asap! Im so anxious to see how it is. Thanks again
Modified by doriftomunkee at 9:56 PM 1/22/2005

[300max]

on the safc try 6 in 6 out. I have a z32 maf and it won't even run until it's 1 or 2 in and 6 out.

Are you concerned about the stock fuel pump not being able to push enough fuel to support boost?

[doriftomunkee]

well i was gonna replace the fuel pump later once the car actually runs and drives..right now im just trying to get it running/idling fine.

i will try that safc settings..anyone else?

[Structure240sx]

hit me up on AIM later

for now did u setup the dec. air settings? they can affect the idle sometimes. and yes try different in/out settings

[doriftomunkee]

update update---

those problems are now resolved..

-but i do have a oil leak from the pan ..i got to fix that so i just added more silicone sealant from the outside since it was just a pinhole leak...hope the fixes it b/c i really dont want to take the pan off with the motor in the car...so ill find out about how it goes tomorrow

-the car has a really high idle at around 2-2300 rpm and sometimes fluctuates up and down. I was revving it and it sounds solid and good just it has high idle thats all. But one thing happend that got me curious. I was revving it and I revved it up to 4k and then i noticed my a/f ratio jump around and the idle jump around alot as well so I shut it off and the car turned off but jump right back on so I decided to take the key out. It was on after for about 3 secs and died but made some metal ping noises. I thought I blew my motor so I started it back up and took forever cranking and finally did start and idled and i shut if off and same thing happend. SO i gave it a break for about an hour and did it again..took a while to start but idled and shut off just fine...What you guys think happend? Is my motor blown or messed up now? This was still on jackstands ...just revving...It hasnt been moved or driven yet.

could it be my safc settings? any recommendations? Any suggestions?

after these 2 bugs are fixed, I just gotta bleed the car and take it for a drive! I cant wait and Im very excited!

[ColumbusDrift]

just wondering what kind of cash you have sunk in the project so far as this is the setup that i'm going to do. did you pull the motor or just work on it in the engine bay?

[drifts14x]

Did you retard the Timing? I was told roughly .5-.75 deg/pound of boost. Otherwise, I don't know, that's definitely weird.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

maybe your ecu needs time to re-calibrate itself to the new settings, when did you get your oil lines from cheapturbolines.com? i ordered some and they never got back to me so i reported them to paypal and im still waiting to get my money back. thanks.

[doriftomunkee]

just wondering what kind of cash you have sunk in the project so far as this is the setup that i'm going to do. did you pull the motor or just work on it in the engine bay?

well i spent around 2k for my set up of more...parts that i needed along the way kept adding up..made numerous trips to parts store/junkyard and such.. I did pull the motor/ clean the bay and converted to 5spd.

Did you retard the Timing? I was told roughly .5-.75 deg/pound of boost. Otherwise, I don't know, that's definitely weird.

Well thats my whole point of idling it down to 700 but i seem to not just be able to. sux.

maybe your ecu needs time to re-calibrate itself to the new settings, when did you get your oil lines from cheapturbolines.com? i ordered some and they never got back to me so i reported them to paypal and im still waiting to get my money back. thanks.

Maybe. Im still running auto ecu. It idles like crap like a washer till it warms up and then it idles stil high so im working on that. I ordered my lines through them a couple of weeks back maybe a month or alil over. I got it with no problem w/in a week.

[doriftomunkee]

another update....

well yesterday i started the car and tried to work on the idle.

good news:-no more oil leak=)-got the idle to about 1000-1200 steady but once i got it to 800-900 but cant get it anymore-starts right up w/ no problem-installed my new ngk iridium plugs gapped at .038

bad:-still cant get it to idle low enough to retard time.-i smoked over the coolant reservoir coz i was idling it too long and i only have water and no clutch fan and the electric is not connected yet...(i should fix that first so i could work on my idle with no problems =P)-coolant leak on the water line off turbo (fixed that)

other than that i just need to work on the idle so i can finish this baby! It sounds and revs good. Just too high of idle and want it to be smoother so I can retard timing to 16 degrees. And finally start test driving it. I am saving up right now for a walbro and also a wideband. Well thanks for all your inputs and keep them coming. I will keep you guys updated.

[Structure240sx]

if you can get your hand on an mdm techtom, consult, etc then you wont have to get your idle down that low to set timing.

the reason for getting the idle down to 700rpms with the tps unplugged is so you know that it is exactly 20 degrees. i had the problem of my idle staying around 1000rpms with the tps unplugged. at this rpm the base timing is around 24 degrees. i was able to view this on the techtom then set the timing properly on via the crank pulley.

i should be recieving my techtom within the next 2 days. if you can send me a deposit ill send it to you to set your timing correctly then u send it back to me and i send you your money back. this is what i did before with klattr1 since i didnt have a techtom at the time.

basically with this you will unplug the tps once the car is fully warm. plug in the techtom see what the timing is, lets say its 24 degrees at 1200rpms. you then set the timing at the crank pulley to 20 degrees. that will give you the retard of 4 degrees base timing. as the techtom still read 24 degrees you will really be at 20 degrees (techtom only shows the ecu timing map.

[doriftomunkee]

update update..

i finally got the car timed and such things to drive it.

results

-its misfiring like a mofo...-i have alot of white smokes coming out of the exhaust.-i had iridium ngk plugs gapped .035 when this happend-i took the plugs out and it was fouled..super black..so i put stock ones i took off and gapped them to .028-same results misfiring and alot of white smokes

ALSO-

-the car seems to be flooding fuel/ being rich. b/c after i tried idling and revving..i shut the car off and then when i crank it after it wont start..i have to get the fuel pump fuse out to get it started and then until it burns the fuel left in the cylinders. I have to do this each time. This was before and after i installed the sr20 fuel pump today.

thats how my car is as of right now. im so anxious b/c i just finished installin my suspension/wheels and the car looks soo god but i cant drive it yet=(. thanks again for any help suggestions in advance.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

is it running constantly rich across all RPMs? if so why cant you just lean it out with your SAFC? as for white smoke... I cant think of anything that could be except for steam, usually when running rich the smoke is black.

[Toahk]

I dont know why, but with the TPS unplugged on my sohc it will Not idle anything less than about 2 grand, even turning the idle screw all the way in. What I did to solve this is warm up the car and let idle get to 750rpm. I then set the timing at the dist w/ my timing gun while the TPS is plugged in. Turn off the car, unplug the TPS, start it up, turn it off again, plug TPS in again and then the timing is set to where I want it. I dont know if this works, but when I check my timing its where I want it (12 deg BTDC). sohc timing is 15btdc stock, and im only running about 5.5 lbs.

[nissanfanatic]

Structure, where did you order your Techtom from and how much did it run you?

And my car really doesn't wanna go down to 700 either. I have to put the screw all the way in and it is really close. But the only problem I had when I set it incorrectly was low RPM drivability. It would hesitate really bad around 23-2700rpm under normal driving.

Gap your plugs down a little more. And consider an aftermarket coil. Sounds like you should lean it out a little. Good luck. Get that wideband ASAP or at least put it on a dyno to get some baseline readings.

[doriftomunkee]

01-23 UPDATE!!

today i can say was a pretty good day. I worked on the s13 and got some good results:

-fixed the white smoke by checkin the injector orings due to them might be leaking (thanks skatanic28 for the advice). I had new orings in there but not factory. I had a oring set kit with like hundreds of assorted orings. I used that so maybe that the problem.

-fixed the misfiring. I went and got a new set of ngk coppers one step colder BKR6 plugs and didnt mess with its gap. just dropped it in.

-drained all the oil i had in there for a week since i started it. There was no signs of coolant atleast i think. I think i did put too much oil initially and had the turbo return line backed up.=( So now i just put 2 and half quarts of 10w30 new oil.

-check coolant and no signs of oil or color..clean clean coolant.

-drove it around the block with no misfiring..car idled and drove solid. I DIDNT BOOST THO! heh..just normal driving to make sure it drives ok..and it does. WOOHOO!

now i have come across new things but im not too concerned about it.

-after test drive...during idle car temp gauge started to rise slowly. I guess i need to put the clutch fan back on but really dont wanna. It was a cold day today too..maybe i just got air bubbles..but not really concerned with that..hope its not a headgasket tho =X.

-also when i was driving, i noticed the a/f gauge on lean the whole time. so i was trying to wonder what was up...while i was on my driveway...i noticed i left the low on -27% w/c is fine but i left the hi on -27% from messing with it before tryin to lean it out from my previous richness problem. I put it back to -10% and messed with the decel air to better idle and then i turned the car off and restarted it...car idles solid and now has a/f on stoich range..

SO tomorrow I will need to get some gas since im on E and the light is on..Also the gas there is still the OLD 87 octane from a couple months back when i bought the car..hehe..ill get some 93 gas tomororw and drive it..if everythign goes well..ill wash/clean it and take some pics for your viewing pleasures..But yea its starting to turn out okay..Im really excited and thanks to all you guys who helped. So stay tuned for updates and such. Who know i might come up with more questions/problems..i hope not...but ya...thanks guys

I NEED A WIDEBAND!!! lol

[nissanfanatic]

Yea, the narrowband will stay on lean until you drive the car for about 3 minutes. Its not heated so it has to get to around 600F to give accurate readings. When its warm, the gauge should start to fluctuate like normal. But its not like the narrowband makes much of a difference anyways.lol

Glad to hear its running well. But you are going to have to gap those plugs down when you begin boosting. Good luck.

[doriftomunkee]

Yea, the narrowband will stay on lean until you drive the car for about 3 minutes. Its not heated so it has to get to around 600F to give accurate readings. When its warm, the gauge should start to fluctuate like normal. But its not like the narrowband makes much of a difference anyways.lol

Glad to hear its running well. But you are going to have to gap those plugs down when you begin boosting. Good luck.

what should i gap them when i start to boost?

[Structure240sx]

gap them slightly tighter and tighter until there is no more miss fire (blowing out the spark)

glad to see everything is coming otgether, yes u do need a wideband

nissanfanatic- i bought mine from a guy. ryan, klattr1 is selling his if he hasnt already

[K240]

gap them slightly tighter and tighter until there is no more miss fire (blowing out the spark)

glad to see everything is coming otgether, yes u do need a wideband

nissanfanatic- i bought mine from a guy. ryan, klattr1 is selling his if he hasnt already

I thought you could only make the gap larger on spark plugs, how do you tighten the gap?

[Structure240sx]

how i gap my plugs:

select desired gap (.031-.032 for me)put plug on gapping tool put plug in a bench viseslowly and carefully tighten until the ground electrode is seated on the gapping tool measure gap to be sure you got it right

you could probably just push down on the spark plug also