Finally installed my I/O tie rods...

[Clawhammer]

But they came with no instructions and weren't as straight forward...as say...all the other suspension arms I've replaced (T/C's, RUCAS, Toe, etc.)

So suspension gurus...does this look right?





They are Circuit Sports by the way.

[gumby74]

That is exactly how I have mine set up, only I went with the Wicked Tuning version. Same product I suspect, but solved my bump-steer, tram line/wander issues I was having now that I am running just about 3" lower than stock.

One last thing, mine came with a large washer that is installed on the bottom side. The purpose of which, I can only imagine is to catch the arm should the heim itself fail. I would suggest hitting up the hardware store for such a thing. It need only be a bit larger than the ball itself.If you are anything like me, I remove my wheels every 4 to 6 weeks for a good cleaning and inspection of all that I can not readily see through the whell spokes. Remember, even name brand, high end products can be as defective as the cheaper cost alternatives. I leave little to chance.

[Clawhammer]

Just got back about an hour ago from my alignment and they put those 2 spacers on the bottom between the ball and the bottom nut. It's raining or I'd try to snap a pic. Which is the correct way? I did it like it was in the pic to keep the rod as straight as possible..

[gumby74]

That is the main purpose of the spacers; to level off the arms or help get the desired arc of travel in relation to the lca.Honestly, i do not have either the vocabulary or the education to justify how my car is set up, fortunately I am blessed to know a couple of guys that do.With the rose end set up using only the larger spacer, the ride was much improved over the Tein rods and ends I was running. However there were still hints of wander, and a couple of hard stops revealed the nose was not quite settled. One side would lock for example, or she would pull to either side repeatedly.I spoke to my peoples, and he recommended both spacers on top and not too much more than 1* neg camber. Outside of deep road seams, the car tracks straight and true, and heavy braking now has the nose tracking straight as well. He mentioned something about re-working the lca's as well to bring them closer to level but some shims or spacers need to be worked out for the sway bar and t/c rod attachment points. Fortunately he knows how to measure, cut, and weld, and I know how to stay out of the way and ice down the beer.However if your car suffers no ill effects from the new settings, enjoy the ride. Also, the washer I was refering to is just that, a large (about 1.5") washer that goes on the bottom side of the ball. Should the ball seperate from the rod end for any reason, the washer will keep the arm from completely falling off and you will still be able to steer.

[916drifter]

http://splparts.com/doc/SPLTieRodEnd/default.htm

link from spl tie rod install... hope it helps

[Clawhammer]

Yeah I actually looked at that before installing mine, but since the designs are different it was only helpful to a certain extent.