Finally!! I'm done with the Knock Sensors...BUT..

[Wiggler]

This is exactly the kind of crap that I knew would happen after going through all that hassle.





Serves me right for using non-OEM parts... well, I just got the OEM sensors yesterday, and am digging back into the engine this weekend before I spend tons of money for a professional diagnosis in case the wiring from the sensor to the ECU is the actual culprit. Could it be that these aftermarket sensors for multiple applications do not send the proper voltage back to the ECU for each specific car?? Could it be that 'Knocking and pinging" in a 4 cyl Nissan Altima sounds different than knocking in our FG Y33s', and the non- OEM sensor could not pick up those frequencies??



The good news is that I don't have to go through all the cleaning, and I don't have to disassemble absolutely everything I did the first time. I scoured every post on this topic, and the car started up the second time I cranked it... I couldn't believe that I connected every vacuum line right the first time!! The most complicated project I did before this was to repair a starter motor on my 99 Avalon...
Second time should be a piece of cake... I'm getting started right now...
I will post all my pics in multiple posts with new title after I get this done... hopefully in one day...

[Q451990]

Good luck! You'll be amazed how much easier it is the second time around...

Heath

[Skibane]

According to the FSM, the engine computer needs to "see" 500K to 620K Ohms from each knock sensor. If the knock sensor resistance is outside that range, the ECM thinks that the sensor is defective.



Typically, a defective knock sensor either shorts internally (has zero Ohms of resistance), or opens up (has infinite resistance).

One alternative to tearing down the engine again would be to yank connector F69 at the ECM, and measure the resistance between Pin 108 (right hand sensor) and Pin 128 (ECM ground), and between Pin 105 (left hand sensor) and Pin 128. What resistance you measure will tell you if you've got a short, an open circuit, or out-of-spec knock sensors.

Incidentally, the FSM mentions not to use a knock sensor that's been dropped - They're pretty fragile.

[Wiggler]

One alternative to tearing down the engine again would be to yank connector F69 at the ECM, and measure the resistance between Pin 108 (right hand sensor) and Pin 128 (ECM ground), and between Pin 105 (left hand sensor) and Pin 128. What resistance you measure will tell you if you've got a short, an open circuit, or out-of-spec knock sensors.

Or... instead of doing all that.... I could just have used OEM sensors to begin with...



Yeeeyaaah buddy!!! I didn't have to even reset the code in memory.... because it already knew the difference between the "knock off" knock sensors and the OEMs... It just read ZERO the first time I cranked it after reassembly....
It took me a whole day... that's exactly 1 month and 30 days shorter than doing it the first time... only because I was petrified of breaking something the first time... I literally would just loosen a few bolts certain times, and call it a day. This time I just tore into it like I was on a mission. In round 2, I left the engine wiring harness in place, and did not touch the alternator or fan. Started at about 11:00am and ended about 9:45pm or so... including time for lunch and a trip to the hardware store for a fluid transfer set for the coolant... which didn't turn out to be the wisest option for conserving the lost coolant. I'll show the better method in my detailed writeup...
My butt can feel the lost power that came back to life after the job...
Shame that it isn't registered or insured anymore... Insurance for three cars gets pricey. I'll just be driving it in the neighborhood at night to keep the fluids circulating, and use the back roads to the gas station to avoid big brother...
It's going into hibernation for a while....

[Wiggler]

RATS!!! It never ends!! Now I have a CEL with code P1102... what the #@%! does that mean???

[Skibane]

Well, allrighty then!

I'll keep my eyes peeled for a white 45t with expired tags tooling down Culebra at 3:15 AM, trying to avoid any "official attention"...

Where did you get the replacement sensors?

ETA: P1102 is the code for the "Transmission Revolution Sensor" shorted or unplugged. It's the sensor at the back of the transmission (not to be confused with the "Turbine Revolution Sensor" at front of the transmission).

Did you leave something disconnected?

[Wiggler]

Haha Ski,

I don't think I'll be going all the way to Culebra street to get gas when I'm in the UTSA area...LOL...

Thanks for the tip on the code... but I can't see how I would have disconnected a transmission connector from the main
engine wiring harness. I do remember accidentally dropping a socket extension onto the top of the transmission casing when I was tightening the rear bolt on the top of the upper plenum air collector though. (bolt at the top of the picture)



Is it possible that I could have disturbed this connector when that happened??

Send me a diagram if you know where it is in the FSM.. or just tell me where to look...
in the meantime , I'm just going to reset it and see if it comes back, might just have been a random thing...

I got the sensors on ebay... someone was selling them for $36.56 a piece... I offered $60 for two shipped, and they accepted... not a bad price I think, right?? I also noticed that the contact surface for the sensor that touches the block was a dull greyish color.. The original ones that came off and the "knock offs" had that shiny, polished brassy finish... I'm not sure if that made the difference in electrical conductivity, but I guess I'm done thinking about that.

[Wiggler]

Ooops, thought I had that code right in my head last night... I must have been too tired to remember it properly when I posted my reply...
It's actually a P1105... any ideas?? I'm guessing it's transmission related too???

[Skibane]

P1105 - A/T 3rd Gear Function

This malfunction is detected when the A/T does not shift into third gear position as instructed by the TCM.
This is not caused by electrical malfunction (circuits open or shorted) but by mechanical malfunction such as control valve sticking, improper solenoid valve operation, malfunctioning servo piston or brake band, etc.

[Wiggler]

Hey Ski,

Are you sure that P1105 is a transmission code??

http://www.justanswer.com/nissan-infini ... 9-q45.html

Should I start by checking the harness connector that also has the KS wires on it???

[Skibane]

Yep, you're right - P1105 is the OBD-II code for the MAP Solenoid Valve.

Plain ol' 1105 is Nissan's self-diagnostic code for the transmission 3rd gear.

Should I start by checking the harness connector that also has the KS wires on it???

There are also a few hoses on the MAP Solenoid Valve that might have gotten unplugged or kinked while you were in there pokin' around...

[paranoidjack]

ahhhhhhhhh yes....

I remember that code. I accidentally swapped two vacuum lines under the plenum.

Blah.

Nice work man

[Wiggler]

I accidentally swapped two vacuum lines under the plenum.

PJ to the rescue once again!!! yep... you just saved this brown man a bunch of hassle. Those two little guys with the stripes on the end going into the breather plate... I thought about it, and those are the only two hoses in the whole procedure that you could hook up the wrong way without even trying, because they're so close together...

Cleared the code, and drove it in the subdivision three or four times...problem solved. I thought I could remember the locations by memory the second time around....

[paranoidjack]

Glad I could help Wiggler. Nice work.

[maxnix]

My OEM ones were about 575K Ohms.