finally dynoed after several months

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:33 am

i finished my kat this winter and i finally got it dynoed today. those that dont remember i have a t3/t04e turbo smic custom manifold, ic piping, exhaust. im running 370cc injectors with the hacked mafs and an msd btm. ive been running a 2.6" id pipe for the mafs which is too small but i did it to be safe till i got it dynoed. i only made 179hp and 197ft/lbs torque @ 8psi. however i was running very rich the entire time around 10:1. i also had my timing retarded quit a bit. i only made 1 run to get an idea of what im running. so im going to go with a 2.75"id pipe for the mafs and dyno again this weekend. btw im using a blow through type mafs. i know these numbers are very low but im hoping it is due to running rich. i want to be in the 230-240 hp range.

Checkered-Member · Post by **Checkered-Member** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:33 am

its time to invest in fuel management...

Post by **Structure240sx** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:33 am

how much retard are you running?

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:33 am

im using the msd btm and i had it set to retard approx. .75deg/psi. one of the guys dynoing my car said i could have advanced it a little. im just worried about the low hp numbers. i know i was rich and all but would running that rich cause it to be that low hp? im going to try again next week with a larger diameter mafs. i will try to post up the dyno graph.

Post by **Structure240sx** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:33 am

thats really about how much you want to retard. is your base timing set correctly? if you are in the lower 10:1 afr's it will kill your power

Post by **Projex240** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:33 am

afc should be an easy fix for the fuel--the timing would rob a little bit if not set at correct base timing, but not as much as running low 10's afr

Checkered-Member · Post by **Checkered-Member** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:33 am

daniel240 wrote:im using the msd btm and i had it set to retard approx. .75deg/psi. one of the guys dynoing my car said i could have advanced it a little. im just worried about the low hp numbers. i know i was rich and all but would running that rich cause it to be that low hp? im going to try again next week with a larger diameter mafs. i will try to post up the dyno graph.

Does the BTM have a .75 per psi setting? I only saw them come with 0, 1, 2, 3 retard per PSI...anyway...

A good retardation is .5 degrease per PSI, and I think the BTM only comes with 1 per psi…which means you retarded you timing by 8 deg. which is too much IMO

The 10:1 A/F ration is very rich and you lost power there, a good ratio will be high 12’s low 13’s

The HP vs. TQ numbers are right on the money, you have between 7-12% more torque then HP, and it will always be that way until you start hitting 400+HP

Real examples of what some people make: 288rwhp 323tq 226 whp 235tq200rwhp 224tq 220rwhp 251tq238whp 270tq

they all have around 10% more tq then hp...and so do you.

lastly: what spark plugs? gap?

Post by **WDRacing** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:33 am

For a daily you really don't want to go any leaner then 12/1. Especially with just a side mount and the only tuning being a hacked maf.

To much timing retard will definitly make you lose power. Set it to .5 after you lean it out and see how she runs.

WD

Post by **Structure240sx** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:33 am

its has been discussed in other threads that proper retard for a ka should be around .875 degrees per psi. this is since the NA ecu sees a richer condition it will then advnace the timing some.

your looking to be around low 12's tops. i keep mine in the mid 11's and feel no difference in power

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:33 am

the msd btm is a dial control you can adjust it anywhere between 0 and 3. i had it somewhere in between .5 and .75 so that should be ok. i am using the ngk bkr6e11's gapped at .35. im running 93 octane gas. i ordered a 2.75"ID pipe for my mafs and when it comes in im going to dyno again. im also going to try using it as a blow through type and a pull through type mafs and see if they are the same. but yea my A/F was around 10 the whole time.

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:33 am

and one more thing i just thought of. right before i dynoed i redid my intake pipe. i havent had time to run the crankcase breather hose back into the intake so i just left the hose out. i also just unplugged the ait sensor that i had in the intake. i didnt think this would matter but just want to make sure.

Post by **WDRacing** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:33 am

The ecu needs the intake air temp, and you shouldn't vent the crancase into your intake. Your only ingesting oil fumes and effectivly lowering your octane level. Hook it to a catch can.

WD

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:33 am

ok i wont hook back up the crankcase breather hose.

Post by **Nathan** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:33 am

Just run the crankcase breather hose out the wheel well (behind the tire) and zip tie it...no more worries

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:33 am

yea thats kind of what i did with the breather hose.

last night i found out that the wideband that the shop used when dynoing my car is off and is reading lean. so that means that i am running even richer than 10's, probably somewhere in the 9's or even 8's. so i guess im going to have to wait until they get it fixed to go back.

Post by **Structure240sx** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:33 am

yea running in 10's kills enough power for a noticeable difference. in the 9's its really bad

Website · Post by **daniel240** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:33 am

yea i also thought that it could be washing the oil off the cylinder walls too.

finally dynoed after several months

finally dynoed after several months

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