finally drove her but i have a problem

[blurrbosi]

Make sure your knock sensor is plugged in all the way. Boost leak check +1

[s13point5]

ill check the timing again. hopefully i can get it timed right. and she will free rev till boost. once it sees boost she will free rev > boost > stutter

i have 2 knock sensors. ill make sure they both are plugged in

[Sil240]

S13.5 - How's your car???Cause I never got mine fixed.I just started working on my car again.I've been a lazy @ss.

Last night I hooked up my A/F% gauge and they're bouncing all over the place.I know its not supposed to stay steady but sometimes I'm crazy lean, then other times I'm pig rich and only sometimes when it idles ok i'm nice and Stoich.

I'm gonna go to Radio Shack tonight to get another Multimeter since my Fluke could power NASA but its giving me crazy reading especially when I move the connectors around.

[s13point5]

runs great. it was my maf wiring. also about the A/F gauge. if you dont have a wideband setup then a A/F gauge is just for decoration. it will bounce around and make pretty lights. it impresses the girls but it does not give you an accurate reading of your air fuel ratio

[Sil240]

hmm tonight I'm gonna try to set my TPS again and i'm gonna set my igntion timing.

I dont think it could be my MAF wiring cause Carl did my harness for me.

Did you ever get your Tach signal back??Cause I still don't have a tach signal.....

[s13point5]

yea like an idiot i didnt have the 16 pin connector that was behind the glovebox plugged in. do you have a SOHC tach or DOHC tach? do you have a auto ecu or 5spd ecu? if you have an auto then set your timing to 20 degrees. 5spd is 15 degrees. carl told me to set my TPS to .45.

[mello88]

Have you guys pulled codes off the ECU? If the MAF wiring is bad it will throw a code for it. Sure sounds like boost leak and/or MAF issue..

[Sil240]

Umm I cant say for sure since I haven't touched the car in such a long time, but i believe that plug is in. The white one that goes up by the Pass kick panel.

Right now I have a Auto ECU in there, I do have a Manual ECU as well.Does it matter which one I run????Should I throw the Manual one in there?

Ok, Thanks a lot for the help!!!!Really appreciate it.

No I haven't tried to pull codes lately.I'll try that, but last time I did, it was good.Code 55.

It's possible I still have a boost leak, but I just tightened up all of my couplers.But.... I have yet to setup my bov.I just turned the screw in because I kept on hearing it go off. Plus.... its setup up to Atomosphere.I wanted to recirc it but I didn't want to run a hose all the way across the engine bay.

[s13point5]

run the manual ecu and set timing to 15 degrees

[ninety1two40]

I just started having this problem yesterday. I can free rev past 3000 fine but when driving it cuts out hard at ~3000. If I accelerate slowly I can get to 4000 before cutting out. I've been driving in some heavy rain so I figured something got wet, it should of dried out over night, but this morning it still cut out... I'm running a Z32 MAF blow-through and a PFC. The PFC throws the CEL when it cuts out. The instant it cuts out my injector duty hits 100%. I'll check for boost leaks this evening. Knock readings are low. Fuel pressure is set around 45psi.

[ninety1two40]

Don't mean to thread jack, but I just wanted to drop an update. I found that the z32 MAF (blow-through) is leaking from the square cover, I tried epoxy but it still leaks, I might gut the MAF sensor out and custom mount it into my 3" intercooler piping. It only started leaking around 5psi, that's about 3000 RPM under load for my driving.