Finally, caught a break...

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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cdkilla
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So, I'm sure most of you have heard of or perhaps even taken advantage of the Homebuyer's Tax Credit? Yeah, my wife and I bought our first home last spring, ammended our 08 taxes to get the credit and are still waiting. The government decided to audit us and not get back to us in regards. It's been going on a year now and that kind of put us in a bind.

My wife and I put some home improvements on the old credit card in anticipation of the credit.(I know, stupid). All is said and done now, hindsight is 20/20.

Well, last week I traded my 99 bmw 328i for a 92 honda civic(my buddy put cash on top). It gave us enough money to pay off our credit cards(I'm never putting any substantial amount on that thing again unless I have the cash in hand to back it up.)

Now with the credit cards payed off, we've got some breathing room. Of course, most of our money is now going into savings, but we've got enough I can order more parts to hopefully get going on the rebuild.

Which brings me to the point which I wanted to post.1. Is it worth it in your guy's opinoin to run ARP rod bolts? I'm just doing a stock rebuild and maybe a sr t25. I'm running a fmic, pretty free flowing exhaust, and thats about it. I'll mainly be daily driving it, with the occasional autocross on the weekend.

Thanks much


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sjbsuperman1425
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well congrats on being caught up on the credit cards. I still have a $93 balance, car insurance, and no job so im a tad stressed and i know how it is lol

as for the ARP rod bolts (no idea on cost) but if its close to stock rod bolt cost, get the ARPs. But if the stock rod bolts are considerably cheaper, or if the stock ones are reusable (im not sure) just use those and have fun!

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cdkilla
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sjbsuperman1425 wrote:well congrats on being caught up on the credit cards. I still have a $93 balance, car insurance, and no job so im a tad stressed and i know how it is lol

as for the ARP rod bolts (no idea on cost) but if its close to stock rod bolt cost, get the ARPs. But if the stock rod bolts are considerably cheaper, or if the stock ones are reusable (im not sure) just use those and have fun!
Thanks.

Yeah the stock ones aren't torque to yield so they are re-usable, I've just heard that the rod bolts seem to be the weak point in the ca18det. Since I have it apart, if its worth it, I thought I might upgrade to ARP.

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float_6969
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I'd do the rod bolts. If I had it to do again, I wouldn't have spent the money on the ARP headstuds. I have yet to hear of a problem with a CA's stock head bolts.

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NUT-CSE
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I was wondering the same thing about ARP rod bolts. What RPM can the standsrd rods with ARP bolts handle?

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cdkilla
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float_6969 wrote:I'd do the rod bolts. If I had it to do again, I wouldn't have spent the money on the ARP headstuds. I have yet to hear of a problem with a CA's stock head bolts.
Really? Hmmm that would save me quite a bit and go a good ways towards a head...Maybe I'll do that. Get the ARP rod bolts and run stock headbolts.

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sjbsuperman1425
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thats actually not a bad idea. Keeping the bottom end together is more key (IMO) then keeping the head gasket from blowing, those are easy to change..I know, i did it twice..lol

dhessian
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dont quote me on this but I think you have to check the rods big end for out of round after tightening ARP rod bolts to spec.

(ks13)

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cdkilla
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dhessian wrote:dont quote me on this but I think you have to check the rods big end for out of round after tightening ARP rod bolts to spec.

(ks13)
Any more info on this? Why would that be necessary? I've already checked em' for out of round with the stock rod bolts torqued to spec, I guess I just don't see how it would change with the ARP's?

dhessian
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different clamping force? not sure really, but since you're already versed on how to do it, make sure to spec the big end with the ARP's as well!

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float_6969
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Technically yes, you're supposed to check for roundness ANYTIME you change the rod bolts, even if it were for another set of stock rod bolts.

The only time this isn't necessary is if the rods have alignment dowels in them, which the CA doesn't have.

In practice, I've heard of plenty of other ppl just swapping them out and not having a problem, but if you've got the engine apart, I'd have them checked.



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