Final Try for My 94

[mikes94q]

Ok, sorry to start a new post but I'm hoping to get some fresh ideas.

I have a 1994 Q45 that had a bent rod, after replacing the rod the car no longer will start. Fuel pump is working, fuel injectors are working (all tested prior to reinstalling)

There is NO SPARK. spark plugs are brand new but getting no power.

What I'm hoping for is someone to just act like I'm a total newb and walk me through what relays to test, what harness I should look at, the ignition control modules and how to test them (voltage that they should return when cranking)

This is a very nice car only has 60k miles on it (bent the rod from sitting to long and moisture developed in the cylinder I assume) I have rebuilt several cars and not had any issues stump me so long. I have walked away from this project for over a month now. I am going to give it this one last chance then I'm going to have to throw in the towel.

Please help, any ideas or suggestions would very much help.

I did pull all the relays from under the dash and they all checked out.

Yes I know this is another thread on the same issue but I figured maybe it would get a few more looks then just responding to my prior posts.

[Infinitiguy19]

Did you confirm the power transistors working?

Do you have a local late 1994-1996 Q45 you can try the power transistors on?

Did you check the Ignition coil relay (Green) near the Engine Control Unit See page 240 in the El(ectrical) section of the service manual.

Are all coil packs confirmed working? 0.7 Ohms (Resistance)

Are the coil packs grounded correctly? (Coil pack harness) each harness has a ground for a total of two grounds to the valve cover.

Is the Crank Angle Sensor plugged in and working and timing is set correctly (15* Bottom Top Dead Center +/-2*)?

Is the ECU Confirmed working and do you have another to swap in just in case?

[mikes94q]

I ordered a power transistor from ebay (wrong one was for a J30 but tested the same way anyways got the same results.) The test in the FSM shows that they would be bad.
Haven't checked the coil packs I do have another set if needed.
Don't have another q to test.
grounds are good
CAS is working, pulled it and the injectors make the appropriate clicking noise when turned.
Not 100% sure about the timing not able to get running to put a light on it
ecu is not confirmed. Did the test for codes and got the 55.

It has to be the power transistors, sucks cant afford new ones. Can't find decent used ones.

**Thank you for your help***
I really think that it is my lack of familiarity with this car that is making it so difficult

[Infinitiguy19]

Well if the guy said the power transistor are for a late 1994-1996 Q45 and they were indeed made for a J30 then talk to Pay Pal and get your money back. Make the seller pay for the return shipping as well if he wants it because its not your fault you have to do his work for him.

Well forget about the testing of the power transistors then, But I did test my spare power transistor to the letter in the service manual and mine works. Sadly it only fits 1990-early 1994 Q45's.

See if you can find someone with a late 1994-1996 Q45 who you can send the stuff and have him install it confirming they work or not.

So start with the Ignition coil relay and replace that with a new one. Then check the grounds for everything, then if its still the same I will send you my spare 1994 Q45 ECU (California spec) so you can see if the ECU is the problem. But you pay for shipping both ways.

[Q451990]

Re-check your connetions near the injector and knock sensor subharness. I've heard that they can get crossed.

Good luck!

Heath

[mikes94q]

I sent the pwer transistor back and ebay is refunding the money (it could have been bad just like mine)

Does anyone know what signal I can trace at the 5pin connection that the ignition control module (power transistors) connects to the harness. If I knew that the right amount of power was getting there, it would make it much easier to diagnose that they are the problem.

Again thanks

[mikes94q]

IT HAS SPARK!!!! New relays, new ign control modules, fuses.
It still will not start.... Could it be something with the timing?

Also, while trying to start it, a message popped up and said transmission failure, but never came back up

[Infinitiguy19]

Try this to see why you got that message:


Does you car have TCS?

Didn't you say you double or triple checked the timing?

[mikes94q]

I still can't get the car to start, and yeah I checked the timing while installing the timing chains but have yet to get the car to start to put a light to it. It is not the TCS car. Its a base. The computer that I put in is a california emmissions computer I'm pretty sure and not sure if it will change anything. going to try my other computer again to find out for sure.

[Infinitiguy19]

Did you check compression as well?

Try the AT-Check test and see what happens.

Is the car all put back together, MAF sensor plugged in...?

[mikes94q]

yeah everything is together.

[mikes94q]

IS there anyway to find out if the timing is wrong???? I know I followed the FSM when reinstalling the timing chains and everything but I would hate to continue just throwing parts at this if I just need to pull the front apart again and redo it. (can it be done without removing the engine from the car?) Just curious if I have to redo it. I want to get this thing running today. any help is greatly appreciated. I am testing that transmission thing now Paul.

[Infinitiguy19]

Yeah there are three ways to test the timing in the service manual. Timing light being the most common way though of course.

[mikes94q]

any way to test it without it running?

[goody90q45]

any way to test it without it running?

Hey Mike I know you have no power to the coils but is there power to the injectors? I'm thinking out loud here but with the key on if you rotated the crankshaft with a wrench would you hear an injector click to let in fuel as it got a pulse from the CAS... and then could you match the #1 injector click to #1 piston at TDC, or......rotate the CAS to get the same result.

You've probably answered this already and I think you've replaced the fuel pump and have pressure but have you jumpered around the FPCU (fuel pump to ground) and tried starting?

[mikes94q]

I do now have power to the coils, I have spark just not starting. I do have fuel pressure. I'm wondering if I have messed up the compression with to much fuel in the cylinders and having it drain past the rings and having them not seal right.

Can I verify the timing by your method? I know when I rotate the cas I hear each of the injectors click.

[Infinitiguy19]

any way to test it without it running?

Hey Mike I know you have no power to the coils but is there power to the injectors? I'm thinking out loud here but with the key on if you rotated the crankshaft with a wrench would you hear an injector click to let in fuel as it got a pulse from the CAS... and then could you match the #1 injector click to #1 piston at TDC, or......rotate the CAS to get the same result.

You've probably answered this already and I think you've replaced the fuel pump and have pressure but have you jumpered around the FPCU (fuel pump to ground) and tried starting?

Do you think if someone just put a stethoscope on the injector while another person tries to start the car will accomplish the same thing?

[goody90q45]

He needs a way to verify that the injector that's opening is the same one as the cylinder that is close to TDC. It's going to be difficult to do.

[mikes94q]

thats exactly it.

I am trying to see if some how I got the timing wrong rebuilding the engine. Everything seems to be working correctly now. I've got spark, Ive got fuel, and I have compression. Its just not coming together for some reason.

This car has been a real mystery to me. I have never had this much trouble. But maybe that will make me enjoy it that much more in the end.

So if anyone knows how I can check the timing with out being able to get the car to start, that would help solve that part of the current problem (hopefully the last major problem) would be great.

Thanks everyone.

[Infinitiguy19]

Did you hold the throttle open while cranking to see if it will start?

If it does then the Idle Air Control Valve is bad or not plugged in, The MAF sensor is bad or not plugged in or the engine was flooded.

[3Q Jay]

any way to test it without it running?

how have you 'set' the base timing so far? you can eyeball it enough to get close by going halfway in the slotted holes.
what does your TPS voltage read?
how many turns out do you have the aac valve?

[mikes94q]

3q- I have not adjusted the aac valve, so not sure on the turns (any advise there would be nice)
The tps sensor is has 12.18 volts.
As far as you said to look thru the slots to set the timing could you be more specific I'm pretty much a newb when it comes to this car.

Thanks.

[djwarner]

Are you sure about the TPS reading. Please check out the topic "March of the Spring Codes". There is a nice diagram there by paranoidjack.