Filter fell off my K&N WAI

[mynority]

So about a week ago, I stalled out mid-turn and I heard an odd noise from under the hood. pulled into the nearest gas station a block away and popped the hood to find my filter just sittin on the side of the intake pipe, leaving a straight shot right into my manifold. in hindsight the car was sounding a lot sexier for like 10 days before, which made me floor the thing a lot more so im assuming thats how long it was off for. no check engine or any warnings, but now im getting about 5 mpg at best. the dealership told me it needs the 15k service and fuel injector cleaning for 640 including the 100 they charged me to diagnose. anybody else have the filter fall off and have these problems or similar?

[dldjros69]

I just hit 15000 miles. I have never done any of these maintenance. On my coupe or on other new cars i have had.

Should i be getting these things done?

[SHIFT_confucius]

Well sort of. On the quick (50 mile) test drive after my K&N installation I checked under the hood and found the same issue. (Loved that extra sexy sound though.)I just cranked down more on the hose clamp and all has been good for 18,000 miles.

[mynority]

did you notice the filter oil got all over the inside of the filter ring and made it pretty hard to get grip on the pipe? i dont know if the maintenance is necessary but the stealership dude made it sound important with recalibrating the air to fuel ratio and all that crap. i guess if your cars running well and its a lease, dont waste the cash

[SHIFT_confucius]

did you notice the filter oil got all over the inside of the filter ring and made it pretty hard to get grip on the pipe? i dont know if the maintenance is necessary but the stealership dude made it sound important with recalibrating the air to fuel ratio and all that crap. i guess if your cars running well and its a lease, dont waste the cash

No, I didn't notice an oil problem on the pipe...

Otherwise nothing amiss. Didn't run it very long without the filter. Actually, I own the car. No lease. But it's been over a year since, with many more mods applied, and back to the dealer for all regular maintenance with no issue.

[mynority]

thats weird, the inside of my filters ring where it meets the pipe was greasy as all hell and i never cleaned it so thats how k&n had it. did you notice a severe drop in mileage before you had the 15k service done? theyre trying to tell me im getting 5mpg because i didnt do the service but im pretty sure its because i was running unfiltered for a while but i dont wanna tell them, might not work out in my favor

[LinkNuc]

Be careful cleaning / reoiling the filter too, you can foul your MAF.

[bunda4th]

Those service is not important at 15k but since the filter was off for a while you probably have dirty some stuff.

I think the major check up is at 60k not so sure but look at the service manual and see what is needed done that is what I usually do.

[08Coupe]

Those service is not important at 15k but since the filter was off for a while you probably have dirty some stuff.

I think the major check up is at 60k not so sure but look at the service manual and see what is needed done that is what I usually do.

The altima and most newer cars shouldn't need anything other then oil/ filter/ air filters for 60K+ Those recommended services are a way to make dealers money,,,Blowing off brakes (disc) lol and checking belts and hoses is not worth $500-$600. Put your stock air box on and find another dealer

[mynority]

well i took matters into my own hands last night and bought a bottle of injector cleaner since thats all the rep said happens in the fuel system service. filled the tank up and hopped on the highway and cruised at 55 for like an hour, i of course got much better mileage but im rarely on the highway so now the real test begins

[bunda4th]

I also would disconnect the battery (negative) for 15 minute to reset the ecu. Then start driving it again.

[mynority]

good idea bunda didnt think of that, and linknuc, any tips on cleaning it properly?

[LinkNuc]

Obvisouly you can use the K&N recharge kit (comes with cleaner and oil), just be patient for it dry and be careful not to over oil, I would avoid driinking to much before hand, lol...I fouled my MAF in my 350Z, luckily I was able to use an electronics cleaner on the MAF and then reset the ECU using the gas pedal sequence and it got back to normal.

FYI disconnecting the battery will NOT reset your ECU but it'll mess up your radio stations, you need to so the gas pedal sequence or ODB

Can't remeber but someone did confirm the ECU reset sequence does work with the push button ignition. It usualy took me a couple tries to get the check engine light to start blinking

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds. 2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds. 2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD). 2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal. 3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. 4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking) 5. Wait about 10 second. 6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds. 7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink). 8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Edit: Added the "Easy Method" for ECU Reset

The Easy Method:

After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal5. Count to 10, depress pedal6. Count to 10, release pedal.7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning

Operation Procedure

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds. 3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds. 4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds. 5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

Operation Procedures

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”. 3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds. Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)

It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

Operation Procedures

1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”. 2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”. 3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. 4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds. 5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds. 6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds. 7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD) 7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal. 8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON. 9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON. 10. Start engine and let it idle. 11. Wait 20 seconds. 12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications

[dimitrinassis001]

Ya mine fell off too 2 times in the same week I installed it. The rep I bought it from said to clean anything off the inside of the filter with a rag with a bit of rubbing alcohol. I did that and had no other problems. I have heard of people spraying a small bit of hair spray where the filter meets the pipe just to make make it a little tacky so it wont slip off.

[mynority]

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds. 2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds. 2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD). 2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal. 3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. 4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking) 5. Wait about 10 second. 6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds. 7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink). 8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

pulled from the factory service manual?

[LinkNuc]

I'm not sure where it originally came from, likely the service manual. I first came across it in 2003 ish on my350z, and then it also was confirmed on clubTitan (and it does work), I have not tried it yet on my A/C but someone did confirm it works

[Beak]

it works if you do it right!! it can be hard with the push button but go ahead and try it. no harm can be done. if you really want to be sure of it start your car beforehand with the MAF taken off (real check engine light is on). then turn it off and reconnect. if you do it right it will be off when you start it.

[mynority]

yep just finished doin it, the easy method worked perfectly

[LinkNuc]

Yup, I can reconfirm, done TPS light is now extinguished! My trick was to start the car and turn off EVERYTHING, shut it down then do the procedure... then i was able to get that little CEL light to blink after about 3 tries....

BTW like i said unplugging the battery doesn't and will not reset ECU since 2002!!!

[LinkNuc]

Yay! I helped someone without being a d!ck! But I am a d!ck, I will call your baby ugly....but its for your (and all of ours) benefit, we a a ton of idiots on here that'll tell you can get 2 mpg better with a grounding kit, beware the -"butt-dyno"

[mynority]

only 2mpg from the grounding kit? i saw like 15mpg and 20hp gains

[bunda4th]

Dam, that suck I guess I will be doing that method too since I got the stupid TPMS light on lol....its starting to drive me crazy when people tell me I got a warning light on haha.

[mynority]

if ur tpms is on, its gonna keep coming back until u put air in ur tires

[blackteam02]

Shudda got an INJEN intake! i never had the filter fall off, even when i intentionally left the filter a'bit loose..i did that just to see how the coupe growled!

but everything is tightened up now tho.