Okay, I've had a chance to calm down from my caffeine induced rage from all the coffee I drank at the dealership. I did some closer investigation using the FSM and some online google searches and decided to scrap the things I tried and start over. I assume the parts I replaced are still working properly (shift control module, brake switch and shifter assembly) so that leaves the ignition lock cylinder assembly. I disconnected the battery and pulled the lower cover in the dash to access the wiring and started unplugging things and cleaning them with contact cleaner before plugged them back in. Nothing looked out of the ordinary and no exposed wiring from rubbing or other damage. Checked the wiring harnesses when the tilt wheel was extended and contracted to each stop position.
Then, I decided to reclean the lock cylinder again using PB Blaster instead of the mineral oil I just tried yesterday morning before I took it to the dealer. I read that even though the car can be started with the key, many times, trash gets inside the cylinder from normal use and can jamb up the internal guts, which in turn control some of the ignition sensors/switches. I didn't go so far as to remove the entire ignition lock cylinder assembly, but I thoroughly soaked the inside of the cylinder and used the key to work the solution into the tumblers and hopefully unfree whatever might be getting stuck in position. I hope that I don't end up needing a new ignition lock cylinder because I don't want to spend the money for that and the price for new keys to be reprogrammed and the fact that I would end up with a different key for the ignition and doors/trunk/glovebox. I drove the car this morning and it did give a click here and there so I will give it another flushing out and maybe I will have gotten lucky on this repair. Don't want to try compressed air for fear of lodging whatever might be inside there causing the shorting out to happen again. Is there a way the dealer can test the ignition cylinder assembly or should I remove it, clean everything out and reassemble before trying the other dealer?
I discovered I can move the ignition key slightly in and out and side to side, but nothing that I would consider to be excessive. The car does not shut off and there are no dash lights that flicker on when I do this so that's a good sign. But, nevertheless, the lock cylinder might be worn just enough that it is causing my problem. I do know that when I drove to the train this morning, it was at least as cold as yesterday morning when my car acted like it was possessed. I think that when I added the mineral oil in the cylinder, it was either too cold or there was trash that got stuck in there which caused the constant activation of the shift control module and shift lock solenoid, sounding like a machine gun at a stop light. This monring, I only got a quick click sound here and there, but nothing like the "click, clik-click-click" sounds I got yesterday.
I will do some more research on removing and cleaning the lock cylinder and whether I can purchase a new ignition cylinder, key lock switch and/or key lock solenoid and still reuse my existing keys or whether I have to live with different keys for the ignition that functions properly. If anyone knows whether the lock cylinder can be replaced (and at what cost) and rekeyed to allow the use of your old keys, let me know. I will also post what I find out. Keeping my fingers crossed on another couple of cleanings doing the trick and saving me lots of aggravation and $$$.
Take care,
Ted
