Ferrea valves DO NOT FIT!

[kouki-gymkhana]

So I finally tore my motor down yesterday to replace 2 bent valves. I had ordered 2 "replacement" OEM spec Ferrea valves 2 weeks ago so that I could just pop those suckers in, button things up, and hit the road but of course my bad luck continues...The Ferrea valves (part # 1933P) are TOO LONG. The stem is like 30mm too long as compared with the stock intake valves. I measured the Ferrea valves with a micrometer and they are the correct dimensions listed in the catalog so I know that they didn't send me the wrong part but they will NOT work with my RB25 head. WTF!??

I'm going to the Ferrea factory directly this morning to sort this **** out. Either they are going to have to cut these valves down to fit or make me some custom valves ($$$$). Anyone else have any first-hand experience with the Ferrea valves??

-KG

[Darius]

I just called them like two seconds ago and they'll cut them to length for you. Talk to Zeke.

[kouki-gymkhana]

So I went to the Ferrea Corporate offices today and let me say that I received EXCELLENT customer service. I explained the situation and they were equally as puzzled as I am as to why the valves did not fit. They mentioned that they have sold tons of them and have never had anyone report any issues. To make a long story short, they agreed to modify the previous valves they'd sold me and dropped everything they were doing in the machine shop to cut my valves to length. From start to finish, I was in and out with valves in hand in about 2 hours.

I'm still dying to know why the valves I pulled out of my head are so different than the Ferrea ones! Is it possible that I have an RB25de head on my motor? Anyone have any valve specs on that engine? I know that the motor I have was tuned by Zenitani in JDM-land before it came into my posession but there is no other evidence of any extensive head work that I can tell.

I'm putting everything back together tomorrow so I'll keep you guys updated.

[Chaos the Xile]

when you get this sorted out if they ahve a Part # for the correct valves plz be sure to post that here for future reference. Sorry to hear that tho man that sux!

[Darius]

I answered this question in my "Broken valve..." thread but I'll repeat it for future reference. The valve listed in Ferrea's catalog is for the R34 NEO motor with solid lifters. That is why it is 18.7mm longer than the R33 RB25DET. I called and talked to Zeke about it and asked why they don't have an R33 valve set and he said he probably couldn't sell more than 2 per month and it wouldnt' be worth it. I said, "I don't know of too many people with R34 engines, but I know there are hundreds of R33's out there now especially since the word has gotten out and everybody and their brother wants an RB swap." He still didn't think it would be worth it to make a set specifically for the R33. Maybe after all of this attention recently between me and KG and the distributor I'm buying from asking him questions, things will change. I guess we'll see.

[s14 2510's]

They make a full line of 26 parts. why wouldnt they make rb20 and rb25 parts

[Darius]

He still didn't think it would be worth it to make a set specifically for the R33.

Obviously not, or they would be in the catalog and/or he wouldn't have been surprised that they did not fit when I called Zeke.

[kouki-gymkhana]

Darius, thanks so much for the excellent info. I tried my best to impress upon the Ferrea rep that RB25 and RB20 valve train parts are an untapped market in the US at the moment and that they would be foolish not to start making stuff for us. The rep that I spoke with was very surprised when I mentioned to him that Ferrea is the ONLY U.S. company I know of that makes valve train stuff for RB motors.

I think it might be a good idea to start rallying the troops to make a concerted effort to convince them to put RB20 and R33 RB25 valves into production. I'm not quite sure how best to go about it at this point so anyone else feel free to chime in...

As for my head rebuild, I swapped out the bent valves but decided to grind down ALL of the valve seats (by hand, mind you) just to make sure everything is sealing up as it should. This required the majority of the day today but I'm hoping to have the head back together and mated to the block by noon tomorrow. Yes, I know I could have sent it to a machine shop and paid to have it done but farming out my engine work is exactly what started this whole debacle anyway...

-KG

[Darius]

You are brave to do your own valve seats. I'm too big of a ***** to do them myself for worries of screwing something up. However, I will be doing some port work on the inlets and exhausts. Nothing major though.

[kouki-gymkhana]

It's not that bad, actually. Just a couple dabs of valve grinding compound of the seat of the valve, apply a suction cup-like holder to the valve face and using an up-and-down twisting motion, rub the 2 mating surfaces together. Not difficult and pretty hard to screw up (as long as no power tools are involved) just REALLY tedious. Doing 24 valves took about 8 hours. It was worth it for the peace of mind that the valves will be seated and sealing properly.