Feeling "buzz" on brake pedal. Cause for concern?

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cbeaudry
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1991 Q45, 156,000 miles, St. Louis

Recently, I've started feeling a "buzz" while when idling at lights. Once the car is thoroughly warmed up, it usually goes away. I was wondering whether or not this was a cause for concern since it never did that before. There seems to be a faint "whirring" sound also emanating from the engine compartment. It usually goes to a higher pitch sound when idling.

Any suggestions along with possible costs?

Thanks.


driverdriver
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Could be engine mounts. I'm not sure if the Q had engine mounts. Maybe one of the Q guys can chime in.

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Q451990
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I wonder if a relay has locked in the on position on your ABS? That would cause this type of noise. Have someone check the ABS Actuator to make sure it's not running all the time...

Heath

cbeaudry
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Would it also make the brake pedal vibrate? Actually, the steering wheel also has the vibration although not as noticeable.

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Q451990
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The brake pedal does vibrate quite a bit when the ABS is working.

Heath

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Jesda
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Once the snow clears, bring it over to my place and we can take a look. I think Heath may be on to something.

cbeaudry
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Jesda,

Will do. I'll shoot you an email when I have an open weekend. Hours are long at work during the week and I've got the kiddos next weekend. Maybe the one after that if the weather is better. There are a few quirks in it, I'd like to clear up. Having been out of work until recently, the car has suffered...

cbeaudry
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I don't know if this may be related to that "buzz" I was mentioning but when I start up the car, it takes a few seconds for the power steering to kick in. Then, when I turn the wheel, it kinda wobbles a bit. Once the car gets going, everything goes back to normal.

I've had to add some fluid in there occasionally since there seems to be a small leak. Levels right now are normal, though.

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Jesda
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When my fluid is low, I also get a buzz, but I feel it in the steering wheel and shifter. Its PS pump whine, which goes away by adding fluid. My passenger side rack seals are bad. Before that my high pressure hose was leaking. If its your high pressure hose, it can be pricey to have replaced.

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JT_MONEY_2004
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Some hose shops can rebuild/repair a high pressure hose. Has it done to my Maxima, **lasted only 2 1/2 yrs tho** b4 recently developing slow leak again. So depending on your plan for the car that may be an option.

cbeaudry
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I read on another thread here that a PS flush may solve the problem. I do believe this is related to the steering since the vibration comes through also in the steering wheel and turns returns in the buzzing sound increasing.

When I check the fluid again last night, I noticed tiny air bubbles in there also. Something is obviously screwed up in the line. Hopefully it's just a build-up of gunk. When I last had a check-up on fluids a few months back, they did say they added fluid to the system since it was low. Would it make a huge difference if they didn't put Dexron as recommended?

I'm just throwing that out to know.

The problem was noticeably less today as the weather was much warmer than it has been in a while. Nonetheless, I still battle the steering a bit when taking sharp turns.

I'll get the flush done sometime this week for $50. I'm not a mechanic so I don't want to tinker with the return hose to bleed the system. Hopefully, it will solve the problem.

maxnix
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cbeaudry wrote:I read on another thread here that a PS flush may solve the problem. I do believe this is related to the steering since the vibration comes through also in the steering wheel and turns returns in the buzzing sound increasing.

When I check the fluid again last night, I noticed tiny air bubbles in there also. Something is obviously screwed up in the line. Hopefully it's just a build-up of gunk. When I last had a check-up on fluids a few months back, they did say they added fluid to the system since it was low. Would it make a huge difference if they didn't put Dexron as recommended?

I'm just throwing that out to know.

The problem was noticeably less today as the weather was much warmer than it has been in a while. Nonetheless, I still battle the steering a bit when taking sharp turns.

I'll get the flush done sometime this week for $50. I'm not a mechanic so I don't want to tinker with the return hose to bleed the system. Hopefully, it will solve the problem.
I would say you probably require a new hose or two, and a full mechanical flush hooked up to the new hoses. You never mention the condition of your fluid. I bet it is not bright pink.

You should do your final fill with M1 ATF, but may flush with regular Mobil ATF. It will cost you at least $100 to hook up to the Sun machine for the flush because of the labor and time involved. Materials and parts are extra, so get them from Joe in advance as you may return what you don't use.

Should have been a BIG RED FLAG for you when the fluid was low. Hopefully the pump itself or valve is not damaged.

cbeaudry
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It only started last week when it got real cold and I would have had it checked right away. Unfortunately, there's no money in the bank until later this week...

I'll get an estimate first to see if discounted parts are necessary.

The fluid itself is the same color as what you find in a bottle of Dexron trans fluid. Right now, the fluid is at normal levels and has been since the last checkup.

maxnix
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cbeaudry wrote:1.) It only started last week when it got real cold and I would have had it checked right away. Unfortunately, there's no money in the bank until later this week...

2.) I'll get an estimate first to see if discounted parts are necessary.

3.) The fluid itself is the same color as what you find in a bottle of Dexron trans fluid. Right now, the fluid is at normal levels and has been since the last checkup.
3.) That's good news. Now find the leak and replace the connector or hose. Are you sure it is not the steering rack that is leaking?

2.) Discounted parts from Joe are always necessary in my book.

1.) I thought the bubbles in the fluid and the low fluid were detected some time back. I understand the bank situation. Spend the intervenening time talking to a Snap-On jobber about who has the Sun fluid extraction machines in your area. He or the local Snap-On distributor will probably direct you to whom they consider the better technicians. They have a good clue because they are aware of the operator's investment in automotive maintenance and diagnostic technology.

cbeaudry
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Well, I had a mechanic look at the problem today and repairs will be more expensive than what the car is now worth.

Turns out there were two leaks in the system. Not only did the high-pressure hose have a small leak but the boots on the rack are shot and that is also leaking. Total damage in terms of parts and labor?

$350 for the hose, $950 for the rack and it's a rebuilt one since new ones run about $1400 brand new apparently...

When all is said and done, the total cost would be more than I'm willing to spend. So I think it's time the Q, affectionately known in our circle as The Mothership, be retired after seven great years and 75,000 miles. She's just costing me too much to maintain now and I simply don't have the resources to keep up with the repairs.

The mechanic did add fluid to areas that needed it most so she drove beautifully when I went home but he did note that this was only temporary and the car wouldn't pass state inspection at this point.

So it's time to let go. One day, I'll get back into an Infiniti but, for now, something more reasonable in cost will have to take me to work and back.

R.I.P. 1998-2005

I suspect that I won't be able to get anything as a trade-in. If I can't get anything, I'd be willing to entertain offers for the car. The engine is still in good shape and she's been a solid car up until now.

maxnix
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So sorry to hear. Once these cars get abused, it does cost some money to restore them.

Quite frankly, maintenance on ours with good technicians, some DIY, and parts from Joe runs the same or less than my wife's previous 1995 Contour or my 1990 Acura. The important thing is not to let any thing get out of hand by neglecting it, and saving for major repairs when they do inevitably occur.

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Jesda
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My rack seals went bad because I failed to replace the boots and flush the fluid. So for now, I've been watching the fluid and keeping it topped off. You can drive it that way for a long time. A new rack can be found for $127 at everythinginfiniti.com. Installation ought to be under $400 if you shop around. Replacing my high pressure hose involved removal and reinstallation of the rack, which was $300 at Bommarito.

If I recall accurately, a high pressure hose is $75 in parts from Bommarito, probably less from Joe at Scottsdale. Boots are $13-$15. A lot of the labor will be redundant, so you can save quite a bit of money if you do the boots/hose/rack all at once.

The high pressure hose is likely leaking the most and is the most urgent item to replace. Have someone turn the wheel all the way to one side and hold it there, and see if any fluid is squirting out from the driver's side. In my case, it was gushing pretty badly. $375 parts and labor at Bommarito. $300 at Rudivani Precision Motors on Manchester Rd.

I wish I had the tools and skills so we could do this in my garage.

I see no reason to let the Q go. Shop around.

cbeaudry
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If that is indeed the case, I may just shop around and see if I can get a mechanic to do the job cheaper.


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