Fastest 240sx in Costa Rica

[huguetpj]

Jeje... yep, my KAT rolled out of the muffler shop on Friday for it's first test drive. First pull, I'm stuck to my seat looking and the gauges in dire believe of how fast this car is, suddendly my A/F ratio starts dropping so I let go of the throttle. I look at my SBC and it says 0.89bar, hmmm that doesn't seem right... change the SBC units to PSI.... dang 12.9PSI. Luckily nothing happened. I had my SBC set on actuator instead of wastegate, well couple of buttons pushed no harm done.

Currently running 4.3-.6 prescious pounds of boost and it feels great :ylsuper

But, of course things WILL go wrong... I remember Asad saying that on the Amarok list a while back.

1. We had bought a resistant hose for the EGR but it didn't reach... so someone at the muffler shop found a piece of some same sized crappy hose and used a tube to join both. Of course after 4 runs the crappy hose melted away... let me tell you I have never seen rubber (?) melt like that.

2. Air leaks, still need to determine if they are caused by the Blitz BOV which I can't seem to regulate with the top screw, cause my car to stall every time I come to a stop. I need to take it down slowly to around 1k rpms and then press the clutch in so the car won't stall.

3. Saturday morning, a bronze fitting I had used to extend the adaptor I had made for the oil sending unit broke of and I left about 2 quarts of oil on my cousin's front porch. After 6 hours, some crappy rain and really poor light conditions later the problem was fixed.

4. A leak at the exhaust mani had begun to appear since Friday when I took my car home. On Sunday, the leak was so bad that I couldn't boost past 1.5PSI. Under further inspection the wastegate was being held by only 1 screw (instead of the usual 4). So people... make sure you use loctite or some other form of keeping the nuts (specially the wastegate's) tighten.

Can wait to take it to the "track" and start wooping some asses. Jeje.

Now I feel confident enough to say THE FASTEST 240sx IN COSTA RICA. There's only a couple of European 200sx's (SR20DET) which I need to worry about.

[SloS13]

Congrats man. feels gooood huh? bump that boost up!

[huguetpj]

5. The oil fitting broke... again. And this time while I was getting the stuck thread out of the aluminium oil filter base I accidentally cracked it. Since it's near to impossible for me to get a used oil base around this parts I had it welded together and the thread worked upon. This time we made a support for the oil adapter so the fitting won't break again.

6. The wastegate nuts keep coming off. I've bought some nylon locking nuts so we'll see how that goes.

And of course after only one week of driving my car I want more boost. Still debating over modifying the stock ECU or buying and E-manage with the injector and timing harnesses.

[S14tat]

the nylon nuts will melt from the heat. what you need is looking washers. the ones that looks like flowers. you need to torque those with a rachet so you can have the torque to really tighten it. also you have to be really careful to night strip the bolts. cause its very hard to reach in there.

[joe240]

when you say 200sx which ones do you see s14 or s13. Can you order parts for this cars in costa rica.. Did nissan import this cars to costa rica as euro-spec 200sx.. If so getting parts for left hand drive silvias should not be to difficult....

[huguetpj]

Yep, I thought about the nylon melting too, but a friend of mine with a turbo eclipse uses them and swear they work. Anyway, already bought them (for like $0.40) so I'm gonna give them a try. Now can someone please explain what a locking washer is... a picture would be great... cause I can't really translate that to go to the hardware store and ask.

Nope, the dealer here didn't even import the US 240sx... much less the Euro 200sx. If you see any of these cars here they were brought in by used car importers. So Silvia parts are a beitch to get, hell even my 240sx parts are hard to find... except for the motor since Altimas and what not have them. By the way, they were S14s, 95-96.

Now one thing I wanted to ask, you can see on this picture where I put my EGT probe (http://www.geocities.com/hugue...7.JPG) just after the turbo on the downpipe. Now I'm getting around 1000°F aorund idle and when pushing it really hard I've seen it go up to 1600°F. Is this ok? Or am I running to hot?

[Pornflakes]

Hi Pedro. The EGT probe should be placed in one of the cylinder runners (into the manifold) in order to get an accurate/relevant reading.

[huguetpj]

Hi Pedro. The EGT probe should be placed in one of the cylinder runners (into the manifold) in order to get an accurate/relevant reading.

Yep, I had a discussion about that (don't remember if it was here or in FA) about the pros and cons. I decided it would be best to have it monitor all four cylinders even though you loose some "resolution" and the fact that 3 good cylinders may hide one bad cylinder.

What EGTs are people getting on the runners? I'll substract 50-100°F to that temp to have an estimate of the EGTs I should be seeing on the downpipe. Maybe the thermo wrap I'm using on my manifold, turbo and downpipe is keeping the temps up... hmmm

[Pornflakes]

Having the probe in the downpipe does not mean lower temperatures per se. In general, having the probe further away from the engine does account for lower temps. However, a probe in just one cylinder runner is exposed to only 1/4th the total energy in the collector (minus heat energy and sound energy dissipated by the manifold of course). Just something to think about.

[ADAMHU]

i run 850deg C on my turbo....

also nylon washers 100% will not work...don't even waste your time putting them on your car....

[huguetpj]

Having the probe in the downpipe does not mean lower temperatures per se. In general, having the probe further away from the engine does account for lower temps. However, a probe in just one cylinder runner is exposed to only 1/4th the total energy in the collector (minus heat energy and sound energy dissipated by the manifold of course). Just something to think about.

Yep, I read that elsewhere on the forum like 5 mins after I posted. Thanks

i run 850deg C on my turbo....

also nylon washers 100% will not work...don't even waste your time putting them on your car....

Adam, where do you have your probe? Looked at your site but couldn't find a pic. Cause 850C is about 1550F, so it's seems we have the same temp.

Since the nylon washers won't work... I still think I'm gonna give them a try since my wastegate is currently being held to the manifold by a single bolt... anyway since they won't work can somebody please explain what locking washers are? Might drop by the hardware store to buy them instead of using the nylon washers.

[erich]

Skip the nylon washers, they will melt and possibly catch fire. Quite a mess.My turbo to manifold bolts kept backing out so I cut out some small pieces (1 inch square or so) of sheet metal I had laying around, punched a hole in them for the bolt and used them like washers. When everything was torqued down I hammered one corner of the sheet metal down around the side of the mainfold and hammered another corner up on to a flat spot of the bolt. It hasn't backed out in the last six months so I think I got it.There is another solution but it is a bigger PITA. You can drill a small hole through the head of the bolt and then wire a pair of bolts together with some safety wire. That will also keep them from backing out.Good luck.