Fairlady Z32 Turbo Problems

[masci]

The car: 1991 fairlady Z TT. 470 HP, 370HP at the wheels according to Dyno test.
I was driving on the Hwy 110 kms or so taking it easy when all of the sudden I had smoke coming out of the tail pipes and the smell of oil in the cab. I pulled over and my Bov's were covered in oil and so was the engine compartment. The Bov's spit oil every where. One Litre of oil was lost. The boost pressure remained the same and the car ran the same other than the oil loss. I have read a bit this weekend and understand that Turbo's fail in 2 ways. They either seize or the seals go and they leak. The guy at the performance garage who almost killed me when they did the brakes a year ago, (forgot to tighten the brake lines to the front calipers.) says that the turbos seals are shot and that the Turbos may need to be changed. Before I go with these guys who happen to employ a mechanic that has Z experience and has done all the work on the car since I have owned it. I would like to know if anyone has any advice about what I should do as far as a bolt on solution goes. I have been told that JWT sport 500 turbos are a good upgrade. The car is as fast as I need it. I don't know what turbos are on the car but assuming they are stock and i would like to up grade em. What is the best way to go so i can get her back on the road this summer and not incur addional expenses in upgrading the car to accomododate new turbos. Also is there a chance that all that i need is new seals since i hear no noise from the turbos and they apear to be pumping out the boost they always have. which is ample.

[Z31toZ32]

why dont you pull the charge pipes just after the turbos to see if they are coated in oil on the inside? if they are blown, i there are a bunch of options. what other mods do you have done to the car?

[masci]

well the charge pipes lead to the Bov's if I am reading you right. And the Bov's were spitting oil. I assume the charge pipes are coated real good as well. as far as other mods go. I got a new race clutch, billet alum flywheel, short throw shifter, manual Boost controller mounted under the hood set at first detent ( extremely conservative setting, any higher and it would go to 1.5 bar right now I have it set so I hit 1 bar if I shift 1.1 1.2 if I push it, which I don't. I change the oil every two weeks and use 95 octane fuel, which is recommended min so it says on the tag on the car. Older Bov's HKZ i think they say on em, ported and polished heads and intake/injector body done by my buddys uncle who owns a ferarri, lambo specialty shop. That is all I know of because I havn't stripped it down because it just runs so well. Except for this one issue never had a need to. I am curious what cams pistons crank etc are in it. injectors look stock and fuel rail so it can't be that amazing but it's really really fast. the gforce when you hit it in 2nd will almost shear the seat bolts off. I have to tighten them weekly. You literally can't lift your head from the seat upon excelleration, and thats not any where near going full out. It almost makes you barf thats how it makes your guts feel. But other than that I really can't say for sure, but I came with all this amazing extra instrumentation and some really rare 5 spoke jap race rims. I assume it was raced in japan before I got it. So by what i am describing, what other reasons could there be for the sudden oil leak. when i run it it still has the excess smoke coming out of the tail pipes, coolent levels are good. Any ideas you have or tests i can do would be appreciated ofcourse.

[300ZXttZMAN]

Welcome to Nico!

Are you in Canada?

Also a compression test wouldn't hurt. It sounds like the turbo seals are blown or on their way out.

[masci]

Yep, I am a canuck, i have been meaning to put some pics of my Lady on here but the quality is too high, here is a link to see 6 pics of my 1991 Fairlady Z TT.
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 35c9ff844a

Well I hope the seals are not blown, but if they are this summer is when it will be in the shop once again since the race clutch install. I have been reading many posts from all over and i stumbled upon this possibility that i intend to explore. I should have mentioned it in an earlier post. The car operates at 85 degrees (idle and while driving) it has shims in the back of the hood to lift it for more air flow, installed in japan. Oil used: 5w-30 royal purple with a lucas oil conditioner. The car has no coolant loss but when I run it on the hwy as i excelerate beyond 110 kmh the temp gauge goes up with the speed of the car, (not necessarily the rpm) faulty gage perhaps. as I approach 140-175 kmh the temp goes up to 100-115 degrees. as i decelerate the temperature gauge goes back down to 85. Its like the temp follows the speed of the car and how hard the engine is working. The car doesn't overheat when you pull over to the side of the road. really strange. anyhow i have read that people are getting great results by swapping from 5w-30 to a more viscous oil thats good in cold and hot conditions and is extremely resistant to thermal breakdown and the oil becoming too thin. so I ordered some Eneos 0w-50 oil. the people that put it in there car had brand new rebuilds new turbos, everything and the smoke was coming out of the tail pipes like mad, the charge pipes where loaded with oil and the Bov's were spitting oil. I am thinking that the condition mentioned above, the overheating of my oil broke it down to the point that it is like water and is passing by seals etc. It sounds hokey but as soon as a Greddy 0w-50 or Eneos 0w-50 was put in the car, no smoke no oil in the charge pipes etc. I am going to try it when the oil gets here in 4 days to see if it changes anything after cleaning the charge pipes and Bov's. The oil is rated for the engine so it can't hurt. The Temperatures up here range from 50 degrees in the spring to about 85-90 degrees in the peak months of the summer. It's the prairies, its flat and either windy and cold or hot as hell. Well the sort of mild hell you can expect living in Canada with such temperature extremes. Ironically, I was actually top of my class in power Mechanics 4th year and was scouted to work for Bristiol Aerospace or Jaguar as a Mechanic. My family hated the Idea, I listened to em like a fool and tried to become a lawer. I hated that and ended up starting my own Company and am a Journeyman Bricklayer. I build brick Chimney's for a living, of all things. and I sweep em in the winter. keeps me hopping for sure. However, by the prices they want up here to pull a motor $3500.00 repair anything on it $3000.00 to $6500.00 to change a head gaset Turbo seals, run a series of tests and put it back in the car. I am thinking it's time to set up the cherry picker and pull my own engine. I have every tool imaginable, I have a digital manual with every damned nuance of all the systems of the car in it. what I lack is the time to start rebuilding motors. This particular engine was rebuilt 50,000 kms ago. I guess this is why i am suprised that seals could be the problem. I guess anything can happen with performance machines. Let me know what you think of the 0w-50 concept. I will be pulling the charge pipes and Bov's to clean em. I am hoping I can make eye contact with the turbo props and check em for any play or etcetera. Thanks for the warm welcome! cheers

[masci]

ps the compression test was done and it's perfect, go figure?

[vg1134]

Yeah- sounds like the seals are shot. Both turbos at the same time?

[masci]

yeah, Both Turbo's at the same time Does anyone know if I jack the car way up on big blocks if it's possible to remove the turbos, or do you have to pull the engine?