Brake Pad Bedding: "The procedures are very similar between manufacturers. With respect to the pads, the bonding resins must be burned off relatively slowly to avoid both fade and uneven deposits. The procedure is several stops of increasing severity with a brief cooling period between them. After the last stop, the system should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature. Typically, a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between should get the job done for a high performance street pad. During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where and when you do this procedure with care and concern for yourself and the safety of others. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is completed there is the chance for non-uniform pad material transfer or pad imprinting to take place and the results will be what the whole process is trying to avoid. Game over.
In terms of stop severity, an ABS active stop would typically be around 0.9 G’s and above, depending on the vehicle. What you want to do is stop at a rate around 0.7
to 0.9 G's. That is a deceleration rate near but below lock up or ABS intervention. You should begin to smell pads at the 5th to 7th stop and the smell should diminish before the last stop. A powdery gray area will become visible on the edge of the pad (actually the edge of the friction material in contact with the disc - not the backing plate) where the paint and resins of the pad are burning off. When the gray area on the edges of the pads are about 1/8" deep, the pad is bedded."
i did my oil change in the engine, and figured id inspect my brake pads. break pads were heavily worn. so i grabbed my new set of pads and went to install (all the while making you guys a video on how to install the pads). Well after pushing the piston back into the caliper, the rubber dust boot had a large bulge that refused to go away. long story short, i worked for an hour in a half trying to push that fluid back. removed the brake line, bleed them, squished and mushed, to no avail. it was time to call a quits. the seal that prevent brake fluid from leaking into the dust boot obviously has given way = TIME TO EITHER REBUILT THE BRAKE CALIPERS OR TO ORDER NEW ONES.
i decided to call my local auto parts stores to see price = FAIL AGAIN. they all told me thats a dealer only part. BRAKE CALIPERS, DEALER ONLY!?? total BS if you ask me. they said its too new of a car, to have those out yet. well i put all the old crap back together, and i have a few options: 1) ebay oem calipers, 2) rebuild my stock calipers.
NOT A HAPPY CAMPER TODAY, TO SAY THE LEAST. starting to really get pissed of with this car. i have never had such a problem. i have had seized calipers on nissans with 150,000 miles, but 50k?? really!? this is total BS. thats all i hear with rogue owners: MY BRAKES FAILED EARLY!
THIS MIGHT BE WHY A LOT OF PEOPLE ARE HAVING BRAKE ISSUES, AND HAVING CALIPERS REPLACED SO EARLY. BUT SINCE MOST PEOPLE CANT SEE WHATS WRONG WITH THEIR BRAKES, THEY RELY ON THE LYING DEALERS TO ADDRESS BRAKE ISSUES.