F*** Stupid A** Injectors Again!

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z32pilot62
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Im really getting to my whits end with these f*** injectors :tisk: When I got the car(had it for two years now) it ran for about 5 months before the first injector went out, lucky it was number 1 so it was easy to change without a plenum pull. Two months later another one, still could get to it without a plenum pull. Finally one that required a pull went so I changed to a set of 50k mile injectors. Jump forward 8 months and another one fails, number one again so I change it with one that was still good from the originals. 3 months ago two fail again, number one and number 5 this time. Changed out to all new style injectors a couple of weeks ago and today going to work number 5 fails on me.

Is it in my wiring? Should I just blow this car up? I have access to exploding powder that will send it sky high in a million pieces... :chuckle: I just need some direction from someone that has maybe had a similar issue before.


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TTkickedin
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You probably know this already, but If you're getting old style injectors, they don't work very well on 10% ethanol gas. Might be your issue.

I have experience with dealing with Fuel injection diagnostics. First, make sure that you're using good 93 gas at all times, make sure that the next time you buy injectors, switch to the new style (if you haven't already.)

if you currently have new style injectors, we'll go from there. Let us know as much detail as possible so we can help :D

GerryO
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more-about-fuel-injectors-t543234.html

Would also suggest:
1) pulling the plenum, as so many things can be accessed and cleaned up with it out of the car
2) replacing them all of them with new (not remanufactured) OEM new style injectors, along with a number of o-rings, seals and gaskets
3) re-wiring things so that the injectors are not constantly powered ON
4) not using any injector cleaning fuel additives

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z32pilot62
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TTkickedin wrote:You probably know this already, but If you're getting old style injectors, they don't work very well on 10% ethanol gas. Might be your issue.

I have experience with dealing with Fuel injection diagnostics. First, make sure that you're using good 93 gas at all times, make sure that the next time you buy injectors, switch to the new style (if you haven't already.)

if you currently have new style injectors, we'll go from there. Let us know as much detail as possible so we can help :D
Unfortunately around here there is no 93 but I do run Shell 91 only, none of the rest of the stations around here have gas that runs worth a s*** in my car. I tested that on my old injectors, not the new ones. I do have new style injectors and yes the ground strap and plenum insulators are new, all of my new injector clips were soldered on not just crimped on and heat shrinked.

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TTkickedin
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I like diagnosing fuel problems!!!!! (there's not much that can go wrong.)

What brand injectors do you use?

You might want to look into overhauling your entire fuel system. You could have little rust particles in your fuel system that are clogging the injectors and making them fail so often.

- Start by draining your gas tank and checking for rust/dirt, (scrape your finger around the inside of the drain hole and see if the inside is flaking as well..)

- While you have the plenum off, either get a new fuel rail (recommended,) or have it cleaned.

- Also, change your FPR and fuel dampener (might as well.)

- Then, OHM test the rest of your injectors, reinstall everything, change your fuel filter and get fresh gas. You should now be fuel trouble free. If there's any more injector problems, it's probably ecu related/bad injector harness (not at the pigtails, further away.)

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z32pilot62
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TTkickedin wrote:I like diagnosing fuel problems!!!!! (there's not much that can go wrong.)

What brand injectors do you use?

You might want to look into overhauling your entire fuel system. You could have little rust particles in your fuel system that are clogging the injectors and making them fail so often.

- Start by draining your gas tank and checking for rust/dirt, (scrape your finger around the inside of the drain hole and see if the inside is flaking as well..)

- While you have the plenum off, either get a new fuel rail (recommended,) or have it cleaned.

- Also, change your FPR and fuel dampener (might as well.)

- Then, OHM test the rest of your injectors, reinstall everything, change your fuel filter and get fresh gas. You should now be fuel trouble free. If there's any more injector problems, it's probably ecu related/bad injector harness (not at the pigtails, further away.)
They are JECS injectors and shy of pulling the fuel tank I did the rest and deleted the fuel hard pipe on the intake manifold.

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TTkickedin
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(You don't need to pull your fuel tank out, there's a drain plug on it.)

So you replaced your FPR, Fuel damper, Fuel Filter, but you're still having problems.

Fuel hoses. Did you internally check/replace all of them?

Here's the rest of the fuel system, I'd say check everything.

Image

There's also a fuel vapor purge check valve that you could replace..


After that, Think about buying a used ecu off the classifieds.

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TTkickedin
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P.s. have you ever figured out why the injector failed? I.e. a clog/short/stuck open?

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z32pilot62
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It won't even ohm out, I checked the rest of them to be sure it was not just how I was checking it but sure enough it just will not get a reading, its like there is no connection internally. But yes EVERYTHING past the fuel filter and the filter is new when I did the new style swap.

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TTkickedin
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So your problem must be electrically related. I don't know how you're not getting any type of reading when testing them though, that's weird/unusual, and actually caused me to say WTF? to myself. Sorry you're having problems, bro.

As long as fuel is actually pumping correctly to the fuel rail and the actual fuel pressure is good but you're still having issues, and you've kept replacing injectors - It could be that you just keep getting s*** injectors, or the most probable cause is the ecu isn't 'telling the injectors what to do,' or It could also very likely be, on a car this old, that there is an electrical circuitry problem. (i.e. corroded cable, bad/loose ground, etc.)

Are you having any other electrical issue in your car right now? weird quirks?


Have you replaced the EGI relay?

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z32pilot62
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No unusual problems, I have no clue what the egi is so I'm gonna say it has not been changed. The injector not giving a reading made me say wtf as well, so I'm pretty sure it's in the electrical as well. I have another motor and new harness that need to go in so I think its just time to say f*** the VG and start my I6 swap...

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TTkickedin
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egi is the primary ignition relay, try changing it!! hahah.

which i6? rb25? do eeeett!

GerryO
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z32pilot62 wrote:It won't even ohm out, I checked the rest of them to be sure it was not just how I was checking it but sure enough it just will not get a reading, its like there is no connection internally. But yes EVERYTHING past the fuel filter and the filter is new when I did the new style swap.
No reading across the two injector contacts is infinite resistance due an OPEN circuit = a bad coil, just like turning a multimeter ON without any or only a single probe connected. A good reading is about 12.5 ohms.

The TwinTurbo link in my earlier post is good, but their server is down for repair.

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z32pilot62
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TTkickedin wrote:egi is the primary ignition relay, try changing it!! hahah.

which i6? rb25? do eeeett!
RB20, I know before you even get started, but I have my reasons for doing the 20 and if everything works out according to plan I will have something fun to report on.

I need a set of Z32 drivers side intercooler pipes, intercooler, RB25 Trans, and the full gasket set then mounting can start. :spitout:

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z32pilot62
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GerryO wrote:No reading across the two injector contacts is infinite resistance due an OPEN circuit = a bad coil, just like turning a multimeter ON without any or only a single probe connected. A good reading is about 12.5 ohms.

The TwinTurbo link in my earlier post is good, but their server is down for repair.
Thats what I was afraid of :squint: But yeah all of the others are within +/- .2 of 12.5. Maybe I just got one that was going to fail anyway :gotme

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TTkickedin
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Well, the good thing is that coils are relatively cheap and 'easy' to replace. You're lucky you have an electrical problem and not and internal engine problem like myself. :/

Keep in mind, the s15 sr20det has 250hp once it reaches the rear wheels. You definitely SHOULD plan on adding boost :D

Any RB is fine according to my standards, by the way. It sounds amazing when it screams, even better at 20psi of boost :dblthumb:


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