F-max turbo kit

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
hayato kazami
Posts: 63
Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2003 6:46 pm
Car: 1997 240sx SE

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does anyone using this kit?

how is it?


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C-Kwik
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Joined: Thu Aug 01, 2002 9:28 pm
Car: 2013 Chevy Volt, 1991 Honda CRX DX

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I know of two people running it that are running 300+ HP on stock internals. It's a good kit.

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S-14boy
Posts: 387
Joined: Thu Oct 24, 2002 11:09 am
Car: 1998 Nissan 240SX SE
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Anyone else have F-Max, I was curious too?

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klattr1
Posts: 1130
Joined: Sat Sep 28, 2002 1:18 pm
Car: GT42R powered S14/KA
Location: Charlotte, NC
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i have a FMax kit with a bigger turbo. Great quality with the kit. Everything was pretty straight forward on the install too. Only a few bolts on the manifold that are tough to tighten down. You just have to wrench them right(like coming from underneath and switching angles and stuff)Intercooler isnt very tall but its 3.5" thick and it is very efficient. I am running 6 psi right now but next week I will turn it up to 15 psi on the dyno since I have a built motor(Ross pistons and Crower rods but stock headgasket).I would say overall I think its a great kit to buy especially because it doesnt have any fitment problems with the turbo. Its a side mount manifold and the turbo sits real low compared to any of the Revhard designed kits. The only thing you have to cut to fit the intercooler and piping is a little bit of the fan shroud in the bottom corner to fit the cold pipe. No cutting of the front bumper support was needed. I ended up just pulling the shroud out. The wastegate dumps into the downpipe at 90 degrees which I would think that it would lessen flow when it opens but a wastegate that is closed loop makes the car sound so much more quieter compared to a dumped or open atmosphere wastegate return but dumped or atmospheric wastegates outlets will yield more horsepower generally. I had my 2.5" downpipe welded with a 3" transition way up top to better the flow. The kit is designed to run a recirculated bov setup but yes you can still hear the bov. Driveability is so much better with recirculated design also. If you have any more questions, let me know!Look out for dyno numbers posted next week and possibly a video.

hayato kazami
Posts: 63
Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2003 6:46 pm
Car: 1997 240sx SE

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thanks! i would love to see some pictures of your cars!

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klattr1
Posts: 1130
Joined: Sat Sep 28, 2002 1:18 pm
Car: GT42R powered S14/KA
Location: Charlotte, NC
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its in my sig but here you go since im a nice guy.my site

MarkEmark
Posts: 1857
Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2002 6:25 pm
Car: fully-built '95 240sx KA-T
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Uh-oh, bandwidth limit exceeded on that site.Time to upgrade :)

Klattr--any pics of that downpipe of yours that you're talking about? I'd check the site--but I can't right now...

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klattr1
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Joined: Sat Sep 28, 2002 1:18 pm
Car: GT42R powered S14/KA
Location: Charlotte, NC
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the site is back up!I dont have any pics of my downpipe but I can use someone else pics to show the same downpipe and then I'll list the modifications made.

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klattr1
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Joined: Sat Sep 28, 2002 1:18 pm
Car: GT42R powered S14/KA
Location: Charlotte, NC
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here you go:check out these links to pictures.I had a 2.5" fmax downpipe welded to a Flowmaster 2.5" to 3" transtion cone reducer and then I had a 3" mandrel bent J bend from Summit welded to finish off the curve to the rest of the exhaust and then I had a $30 steel braided flex section welded where the cat would be to take the vibration under load of the motor.It cost $70 for all the welding and absolutely no leaks whatsover. So basically I have no flanges in my exhaust system. I've already pulled out a motor and put one back in and it didnt cause any problems whatsover.Heres the links to some of the pics which are reference material(thanks to MaxType 240 off of freshalloy for picture #4 and to Summit Racing and Ebay for the sb flex section):http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4288911063 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 8&x=15&y=9

MarkEmark
Posts: 1857
Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2002 6:25 pm
Car: fully-built '95 240sx KA-T
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Why didn't you respond to my question about flexpipe klattr?!?!?

Lol...thanks for the info though, I never even thought of ebay. Here I am, and I was going to pay freakin $50 for a jcwhitney flex pipe, and just checked ebay and found some for $30. Thanks for saving me $20 buddy.

BTW, your car is absolutely gorgeous. Damn you for being able to live where the weather's always gorgeous and the roads always pristine.

That 2.5" fmax downpipe looks exactly like what I need...I wish you had a picture of it from like under the car or from "back angle" of the pipe...The one I'm having made up will be pretty straight forward--just a 90 degree bend, but it cant mount perpendicular to the turbo, it has to tilt at like a 30 deg. angle toward the engine to clear the brake booster.

I wonder if FMAX sells just downpipes.

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klattr1
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Car: GT42R powered S14/KA
Location: Charlotte, NC
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thanks for the compliments.If you are doing a custom made setup, just use mandrel bend piping from Summit and find a good welder and have two 02 bungs welded in.I wouldnt just buy a FMax downpipe because it is designed to fit their side mount manifold setup and wouldnt work for typical top mount Revhard design.Some people use aftermarket SR20 downpipes and have it finished off to whatever turbine housing flange they have.FMax has gone through alot of changes in management and such(bought out by Turbonetics) so I'm not sure if they'll sell you one separately. I bought my intercooler and piping set separately a year ago through Jhayme and Adrian but give them a call(Turbonetics) or possibly turbo-kits.com or cipmotorsports.com

MarkEmark
Posts: 1857
Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2002 6:25 pm
Car: fully-built '95 240sx KA-T
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Yah, I'd use the SR downpipes, except no way am I paying $150 for $30 worth of piping...

I already have the 2.5" mandrel bends, the bungs, and am waiting for the t3 outlet flange (and now a flex-pipe, which I found on ebay for only $20); they just need to be cut at the right angles, and brought to a welder. Actually, my friend's dad is boss of a really good welder, and so long as I cut everything at the right angle and mark where I want it welded, he's doing it all for free. Basically, I'll have a whole new downpipe, test pipe in place of cat, flex pipe, etc all made up for just the cost of materials. BTW, anyone know where to find 2.5" 2-bolt flanges?!?

ThanksMarc

hayato kazami
Posts: 63
Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2003 6:46 pm
Car: 1997 240sx SE

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To Klattr1

after i check out to your site, i found out that you are going to have a T04X2 project, is that right? when are you going to do it? also, for the T04X2, that is the XS-engineering turbo, are they making a such kit for KA? or you have to find some body else to make up the manifold for such a high output?

Thanks!

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klattr1
Posts: 1130
Joined: Sat Sep 28, 2002 1:18 pm
Car: GT42R powered S14/KA
Location: Charlotte, NC
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the car that you saw on http://www.ka-t.org is rick's car (95_240sx)we both have KA-t's but the one on http://www.ka-t.org/klattr1 is obviously mineI designed his site for him so he let me put my own site within itIm going to redesign it so its not confusing to people since we both have gold ka-t's.But Rick's car is going to be major sick after he installs the T04X2.He's shooting for BIG numbers and he' already made it into the 12's with not a heck of alot of boost.Keep an eye on the site for future updates.

hayato kazami
Posts: 63
Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2003 6:46 pm
Car: 1997 240sx SE

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woo! you better post it up when the car is finished!

hayato kazami
Posts: 63
Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2003 6:46 pm
Car: 1997 240sx SE

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i send a e-mail to the turbokit.com and asked them about the stage 2 F-max turbo kit. He told me that kit will able to hold 450hp, and the manifold can hold it up for sure.

Well, he will said anything to sell that kit, but i would like to know the truth, can anyone tell me if he is telling the truth or what?

hayato kazami
Posts: 63
Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2003 6:46 pm
Car: 1997 240sx SE

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sounds like this is not a really good kit! "POOR design" i heard a lot from the other website!

TOO bad ----- F-max!! ^-^

brage
Posts: 145
Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2002 9:46 am

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Ok, I'm running the "f-max stage II" kit and I would say that generally I love the kit. It is my opinion that with any KA kit there are going to be trade-offs.

For example my kit came with a piece of **** Deltagate II wastegate and a Turbonetics raptor BOV. I'm not sure if they would have provided me with the Tial and the standard HKS BOV if I had requested it (at the time I thought that was what I would be getting). I was missing a couple small items such as some brass hose barbs, etc. Those are cheap and easy to pick up, not a big deal. They should have just included a 1/8 NPT to 1/8 BPST converter for the oil sender, but that was no big deal to get either (I didn't really want to tap the oil sender to 1/8 NPT).

Lets see... other problems - I don't much care for the intake design (especially the coupler between the MAF and turbo inlet) I will probably have something fabbed to replace it.

I replaced the deltagate w/ a Tial 38mm and I still have the raptor BOV.

Overall I've been very satisfied. Currently running ~9psi putting down 240rwhp on the dyno, and it is running a little rich. I need to get some cams to help it breath better and I should get some better numbers out of it then. Currently running a stock '97 block & head.

overall I think it is the best kit on the market at this point.

-Jeff

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C-Kwik
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Joined: Thu Aug 01, 2002 9:28 pm
Car: 2013 Chevy Volt, 1991 Honda CRX DX

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I doubt they will provide parts other than turbonetics parts where they are available. F-Max was bought by Turbonetics.

kpark129
Posts: 22
Joined: Sat May 31, 2003 12:30 pm
Car: working on my car

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I like fmax kit

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klattr1
Posts: 1130
Joined: Sat Sep 28, 2002 1:18 pm
Car: GT42R powered S14/KA
Location: Charlotte, NC
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FMax is one of the few turbo companies that knows how to build a exhaust manifold for the ka24de that doesnt have any problems like warping and cracking.

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C-Kwik
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Joined: Thu Aug 01, 2002 9:28 pm
Car: 2013 Chevy Volt, 1991 Honda CRX DX

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So long as the welding is good, the key to durability in a manifold is just taking the necessary steps to allow the manifold to expand and contract without adding stress. Individual flanges is probably most key. Widening the holes for the head-to-manifold studs can assist as well, but actually is more to prevent shearing off the stud itself. It's not hard to build a good manifold. Or even to modify one to be more durable.


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