F-Max Dyno Results IV

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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MaxType 240
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F-Max Dyno Results I F-Max Dyno Results II & III

F-Max Dyno Results IV:

The last dyno showed I had dangerous A/F levels. Well, I found the culprit killing my fuel flow. Looks like the BG engine flush loosened a lot of deposits and the fuel sock trapped them as shown below:

So, I replaced it w/ a new fuel sock ($16!) and headed to Secret Services so they could test out some new SSPL KA-T parts.

During my baseline, I had no A/F problems (thanks to new fuel sock) but I had a new plateau between 4900-5100rpm through all my runs. My best was 236hp/245trq, here's an example dyno showing the plateau:

A far cry from my 1st dyno - what could be holding back my power like this? Water Temp Sensor? I'll be doing a leakdown test to see if the comp test was fooling me.

Jesse

PS - Added UR Pullet Set and re-grounded some HKS cables since last dyno. Boost creep is way up, hopefully that's a sign of wastegate redesign efficiency. Just need to reduce solenoid % across the band.


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Def
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Looking good!

Questions about your setup though(I'm clueless on the typcial F-MAX kit)-

1. What size and trim turbo are you running?

2. Are you running a cat?

3. Boost pressure?

The torque delivery looks absolutely sweet. The torque plateaus a bit late for my taste(~4000RPM), but I love the smooth buildup of torque up to that point and the relative flat powerband after that. Your torque stays over 200ft-lbs from 3.4k RPM to the end of the pull!

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Checkered-Member
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I must be an idiot...

what is that fuel sock thing...and where is it found?

Redline240
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Checkered-Member wrote:I must be an idiot...

what is that fuel sock thing...and where is it found?


Fuel pump...

Redline

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WDRacing
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Its attached to the fuel pump, its the first filter in the fuel system. A bad sock will lead to alot of problems and usually long hours of trouble shooting.

WD

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MaxType 240
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Def wrote:Looking good!

Questions about your setup though(I'm clueless on the typcial F-MAX kit)-

1. What size and trim turbo are you running?

2. Are you running a cat?

3. Boost pressure?

The torque delivery looks absolutely sweet. The torque plateaus a bit late for my taste(~4000RPM), but I love the smooth buildup of torque up to that point and the relative flat powerband after that. Your torque stays over 200ft-lbs from 3.4k RPM to the end of the pull!


Dude, your praising my messed up dyno??? Anyways, my signature has the link to all my mods, trims, dyno sheets.

All, could a bad MAF cause something like this?

Jesse

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WDRacing
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If the MAF was bad you'd go into limp home mode and not be able to rev over 2500 IIRC.

WD

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MaxType 240
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WDRacing wrote:If the MAF was bad you'd go into limp home mode and not be able to rev over 2500 IIRC.

WD


That it correct. Scott at Secret Services suggested it though.

For anyone looking to see what a bad water temp sensor can do, check out this dyno:Fresh Alloy Link

You'll see the power cutoff is 5,000rpm, similar to mine.

Jesse

Projex240
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I dont think thats all too bad. I read that you have a jwt 370cc program? i dont know, but maybe that migh be something to do with it. That 370cc program isnt good for too much more then what you are making. I think 250-ish is about it. I was also wondering about why you opted to returnt eh DP into the exhaust. I would open it into the atmoshpere and expect to amke aroun 10 more hp at least. Also---check you water temp sensor--its very cheap, if it it turns out to be something other than that, then at least you havent wasted much money while trouble shooting. One more thing--how much boost was this run at? If its still at 8 psi ( or around about) then this dyno looks great to me. Usually, the power is going to fall off at around 5k. Thats just the nature of the KA unless you have cams. The power seems to plateau, andhttas looks great. It doesnt fall off. I dont see whwre it looks bad. Id\s the motor stock, built? Stock head? Built head?

Projex240
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I just re-read your mods page again. I just think you are maybe expecting too much out of this turbo setup. It doesnt seem as thought theres anything wrong to me. You may pick up a few ponies form the temp sensor, but I dont think it will be a significant gain. Also, if you still are using the s14 cams, you are lucky its not falling off even worse and its only a flat spot. It should be taking a dive at about 5200. Go get some custom crower cams(400) or some 91 cams(uber cheap) and see what happens. Also--you siad sspl---have they finally finished the ecu's for the s14"s? I talked to them, and they said they only had the s13's done, adn the s14's were still under development.

-Josh

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MaxType 240
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Josh, the Secret Services S14 ECUs are still under development as you said. We made significant advances last Tuesday though.

Understand that I am only trying to recapture my original 255hp/260trq dyno. The power didn't fall off until ~5500rpm that time.

I plugged in a scanner and the temp sensor didn't give me crazy temp values.

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Def
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MaxType 240 wrote:Dude, your praising my messed up dyno??? Anyways, my signature has the link to all my mods, trims, dyno sheets.

All, could a bad MAF cause something like this?

Jesse


I like the power delivery, that's all. The numbers aren't humbling, but I've never been too concerned with that. I get all worked up over a clean and controllable powerband though...

Your numbers don't seem all that low to me either. Something like a plug gap off a tad or tired ignition wires could easily make up the difference between this dyno and your last one.

Projex240
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Cool on the s14 ECU's. Also---when did you get the 255/260 dyno? I probably saw a thread on it if there was one, but dont remember it right off hand? since dude already said it--what kind of gap and wires, and plugs are you running?

-Josh

BTW--i like your car. Engine bay is CLEEEEAAAAN! Howd you do it? Take everything and go to town with silver paint?Even the damn brackets look new--lol

I would only go through all that if i had a daily driver that wasnt my s14. It gets really dusty and full of pollen here in SC.Sweet ride.

-Josh

andrave
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your dyno graph looks really good to me, I wouldn't mind having a fat torque curve like that. its normal for ka's to fall off above 5k, especially with your injectors and turbo.

I agree with the other guys, maybe changing things around would help a little but thats pretty good for the current setup.

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MaxType 240
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Josh, my first/best dyno was done during the winter.

I had the same NGK wires but I had Denso IK20 plugs on the 1st one. I'm running straight Supra TT Iridiums now (cheaper). I was also running dino oil vs the Mobil 1 I have now.

I've tried larger gaps then .028 thinking the HKS TPI would help but no luck yet.

Regarding the engine bay, anything that will heat soak will be coated with ceramic paint. I like to spare my components from heat - heat kills over time!

Anyways, I'll be doing more baseline dynos before testing the new SSPL ECU. I'll see what new plugs and wires can do.

A discovery process :) Thanks for the input guys!

Jesse

Projex240
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one more thing----thats paint your using--not a ceramic coating? That looks as thought it been holding up really well!.

I got the costs of having my turbine, mani, and dp and ic piping cermaic coated---it was like 400-500 depending on the amount of piping i send the guy.

If you are using the spray on paint, where did you get it, and how well is it holding up as of now?

-Josh

p.s---holler at me o AIM ( Projex240) when the s14 sspl ecu's are ready---im ready when they are.

_j

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MaxType 240
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The paint is called POR-20 and I bought a pint online $35. Its good to 1400 degrees and I applied it myself prior to installation. Spray guns did the intial coats. I had to recoat some areas b/c I had an injector leak issue and subsequent high temps. Brush on looks fine too. I brushed the vacuum lines, brake lines, MC, manifold, etc.

I haven't had to recoat it except for that one time.

Another culprit on my engine are the spark plugs.

I'll also be tuning w/ Z32 MAF and 550cc inj for the SSPL too, I'll keep you all updated.

Jesse


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