F**KING PULLEY BOLT!!!

[jedijeff123]

Anyone know what to do when your crank pulley bolt is stuck? i'm trying to replace my water pump and i need it to come off, but even after letting it soak in PB Blaster and trying an impact wrench on it, it still won't come loose! i tried the breaker bar and starter method...and the car didn't even start! (yes the battery was plugged in). nothing will make this bolt come loose! i have a pulley puller and everything ready...am I doing something wrong? is it reverse threaded? someone please help!!

[jona300zx]

Its not reverse threaded. I took mine off with the breaker bar. sorry I cant give any more help bro

[jedijeff123]

is it supposed to come off entirely? the bolt?

[jona300zx]

yea the bolt comes off and its >3 inches long. it has a big washer too.

[jona300zx]

To take mine off i put the car in fifth gear, chocked the rear wheels, put on the handbrake tight and went at it with a breaker bar. it was pretty hard but i didnt use any lube or special stuff

[jedijeff123]

well mines an auto, so i guess my last resort is to jam the flywheel and go at it with my breaker bar...

[bartZ32tt]

you've got the right idea with pb blaster and a breaker bar. Also use a long metal pipe as a cheater bar. How big of an impact wrench do you have? My 900lb-ft impact did the trick. You may have to drive it to a shop with a bigger impact wrench to loosen it for you. Then barely tighten it to drive back home so you can break it loose again. Just be sure to use anti-seize when you retorque it.

[jona300zx]

go to step 19b in this link. idk if it will help.

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/timingbelttech.html

[jedijeff123]

well i was using a 260ft-lb Husky impact wrench. but the breaker bar with a screwdriver jammed into the flywheel worked! now to just get my pulley puller aligned...looks like more PB Blaster!

[evildky]

impact FTW! it's a nightmare to remove without an impack, save your pennies and you can thank me later

[robomatic12]

well i was using a 260ft-lb Husky impact wrench. but the breaker bar with a screwdriver jammed into the flywheel worked! now to just get my pulley puller aligned...looks like more PB Blaster!

No offence man, but that's a weak gun. You need like 500ft.lbs gun+ and a nice plentiful air supply to do these big crank bolts.

[bartZ32tt]

No offence man, but that's a weak gun. You need like 500ft.lbs gun+ and a nice plentiful air supply to do these big crank bolts.

Indeed. I got my 850lb-ft forward, 900lb-ft reverse impact from northern tools for $100 with a 2 year replacement warranty. Price isn't too bad for a decent one.

[Oh Em Zee]

anti-seize + torque wrench = impending failure.

[tg]

The bolt is the easy part Good luck.

[Oh Em Zee]

oh sh-- i just remembered how horrible of an experience that was for you Tg.
that picture illustrates nightmare

[jedijeff123]

it's my brothers, actually. i'll probably buy my own, but right now it's nice tools and super nice workspace or TT swap. i'd rather have TT swap
and no antisieze, sounded stupid for a bolt that's constantly spinning, it came of easy with the breaker bar so i know what to do next time. thanks guys

[bartZ32tt]

no antisieze, sounded stupid for a bolt that's constantly spinning

huh didn't know antisieze causes bolts to magically come loose, thought it only prevented it from seizing. Hmm, how stupid of me.

anti-seize + torque wrench = impending failure.

lol. Enlighten me.

[Oh Em Zee]

if you were to tighten a bolt with anti-seize to factory spec using a torque wrench, you could get anywhere from 20-50% more tension force on the bolt without knowing it.
for example, tightening a bolt to 25 ft.lbs with anti-seize and another without antiseize at 50 ft.lbs would be equal tension force.
guys spray anti-seize on their wheel studs then torque the lugs to spec, and next thing you know they pulled the wheel studs straight out.
if you use an anti-seize product make sure you account for it when torquing the bolts to spec.

[bartZ32tt]

I agree with the statement that you need to compensate for the torque more-so than "anti-seize+torque wrench=impending failure." That's simply untrue.

[Oh Em Zee]

anti-seize + torque wrench - knowledge of anti-seize's effects on torque values = impending failure.

fixed

[raremotive]

The bolt is the easy part Good luck.

I never had to do that. A little leverage and patience always worked for me.

[tg]

The bolt is the easy part Good luck.

I never had to do that. A little leverage and patience always worked for me.

dude we had a mechanic and an engineer on it... we both thought it was welded on 'cause it was such acunt to get off... honestly we broke off the bolt in the first hole (you can see it there) that's how well it was on there.

Anyways, that bolt shouldn't be that hard... get a 1/2" ratchet on it with a proper socket (not an impact socket) and then stick a 3ft bar on the end of the ratchet, bingo. Make sure somebody is preventing the crank from moving.

[jedijeff123]

ok, well i put everything back together and it looks like i have a leak from the radiator hardpipes...could it be that i used Permatex Thermostat and Water Pump sealant instead of Ultra Blue?? it was only about an hour between putting the hardpipes back on and filling it up...i didn't start the car i was just filling the radiator. it looks like it was the hardpipes because i could see coolant on top of the water pump, rathers than coming from underneath it......

[raremotive]

dude we had a mechanic and an engineer on it... we both thought it was welded on 'cause it was such acunt to get off... honestly we broke off the bolt in the first hole (you can see it there) that's how well it was on there.

Anyways, that bolt shouldn't be that hard... get a 1/2" ratchet on it with a proper socket (not an impact socket) and then stick a 3ft bar on the end of the ratchet, bingo. Make sure somebody is preventing the crank from moving.

The fubar VG that came out of my car. The crank counterweight got so bent that it locked itself into the block. It wasn't easy to get that timing drive gear out. I ended up spraying underneath the gear with lube and tapping the face of the gear down on to the shaft, then lifting it with leverage, and repeating. Once it got easier, it came out.

[tg]

dude we had a mechanic and an engineer on it... we both thought it was welded on 'cause it was such acunt to get off... honestly we broke off the bolt in the first hole (you can see it there) that's how well it was on there.

Anyways, that bolt shouldn't be that hard... get a 1/2" ratchet on it with a proper socket (not an impact socket) and then stick a 3ft bar on the end of the ratchet, bingo. Make sure somebody is preventing the crank from moving.

The fubar VG that came out of my car. The crank counterweight got so bent that it locked itself into the block. It wasn't easy to get that timing drive gear out. I ended up spraying underneath the gear with lube and tapping the face of the gear down on to the shaft, then lifting it with leverage, and repeating. Once it got easier, it came out.

Yeah the key in this setup made it hard to 'wiggle it' as it could only move outwards and we couldn't get anything substantial behind it that wouldn't bend. Live and learn! I think it was due to sitting for so long, it had actually rust welded itself on there.

[tg]

ok, well i put everything back together and it looks like i have a leak from the radiator hardpipes...could it be that i used Permatex Thermostat and Water Pump sealant instead of Ultra Blue?? it was only about an hour between putting the hardpipes back on and filling it up...i didn't start the car i was just filling the radiator. it looks like it was the hardpipes because i could see coolant on top of the water pump, rathers than coming from underneath it......

Did you put clamps on it along with the sealant? It shouldn't be leaking from the block if you just changed everything... It's fairly easy to see where its coming from... take the fan blade and fan shroud off, remove the upper timing belt cover and run the engine for a bit (not more than 2-3 minutes if its warm) and you should be able to see exactly where it's leaking from. Likely it's the short standoff tubes that come off the block.

Take a pic if you can.

[jedijeff123]

that is exactly what i was thinking. i didn't wait long enough for the RTV to cure, and it started leaking when I finished filling up the rad BEFORE i even started the car. i'm gonna fill it with water and see if it leaks now, maybe the sealant wasn't dry...i doubt it was the pump because there was green antifreeze on top of the pump too. thanks guys

[tg]

lol @ 260 ft-lb gun I think they make electric ones that are 300

[Nismo686]

My 3/8'' impact has over 300 ft/lbs.

[Nismo686]

Nevermind. only 280.