Extrude Hone

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wannawangan
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Has anyone used this method? Please comment on whether this would be worth the money. I was thinking about having it done to my intake manifold and the intake and exhaust ports on the head.


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Warped
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i dont think its worth the money on the 240 intake mani, it flows good and i dont really think its going to be that benificial.have the head ported and polished

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chandler
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that stuff is expensive, I looked it up. I wanted it done also

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Jookmasta
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a port and polish is only a hundred bucks? im sure that doesnt include labor of disassembling the engine right?

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Checkered-Member
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I wanted to edit a spelling mistake, and accidentally deleted my post….oops

I said that to Extrude Hone the intake mani will cost 500, while a port and polish will achieve the same result for 100

and that Extrude Honing is not beneficial on 4cyl,
Jookmasta wrote:a port and polish is only a hundred bucks? im sure that doesnt include labor of disassembling the engine right?
obviously it doesn't, its not that hard to take off the intake mani anyway

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95_240sx
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You really think the KA manifold flows????

I want whatever you're smokin!

Rick

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eddiec
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i guess if money is no object then yeah anything could help. but IMO the money is not worth the gains. unless you have gone through every other little detail trying to squeeze more efficiency out of the system.

if you got time on your hands then get a junk head and practice p&p'ing it. with patience the head can be cleaned up a little better than stock.

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Warped
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This is what i did to mine and im selling it, its a s13 head

Headport1port2port3port4

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Warped
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95_240sx wrote:You really think the KA manifold flows????

I want whatever you're smokin!

Rick
do you really think extrude honing will actually yield that much of a gain for the cost ? why not just buy a new main when some of the guys here start producing theirs

DRIFTEADOR
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^ i wonder how that head would do on a flow bench.

imo, porting is to be left to professionals, or if you want to diy, at least have an good understandind of flow dynamics. have a plan before you begin, dont just take a dremel to it and hope for the best. it could do more harm than good.

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turbo98_240sx
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I'm not sure but I thought the goal of a mild p&p was to remove all the burrs from the casting that were there from the factory, not to enlarge ports, at least that was my understanding of it for an unpro job, I wouldn't just start takin a dremel to everything....... well I would but I wouldn't recomend it to others hehe.

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eddiec
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at the very least you could do a port match. that is use the gasket as a template and make sure the ports line up nicely,

also the exhaust ports can take a little polishing. remember the intake side needs no polishing to help with atomization.

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Warped
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those are the exhaust ports i didnt touch intake

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wannawangan
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I did look into this option a couple of years ago. $500 is quite a chunk of change. Seems like it would be better off spent on a custom intake manifold.

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WDRacing
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For the record Extrude Hone, and if you search there is another company that does the same thing way cheaper, is the best type of porting poilishing you can have done.

Having your head and intake done will seriously increase the amount of flow in/out of the motor and make power more efficiently even in NA form. I would recommend a set of cams as well to take full advantage of the porting process. I don't think I'd do the intake though, I'd build a new one and have it ported.

A simple gasket match won't yield much power, but removing the valves and doing a full port will effect the flow in a huge way. It's actually alot easier then people think. The DIY cround can make alot of power here for free. I'm about to do my spare head. I'll take alot of pictures and whatnot for everyone.

WD

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Warped
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hey wd what do you think of my exhaust porting i did ?

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wannawangan
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I was looking at that option to smooth out the intake airflow for my future KA-T. I will look into weighing the pro's and con's of this a little further. Thanks for the insight!

Jeff240sx
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Warped wrote:hey wd what do you think of my exhaust porting i did ?
I don't remember the valves having that knife-edge en route to the port. If you put that there, it's bad. The sharper the angle the exhaust pulses meet with, the less time they have to get together and combine. That's why (I think) there is a radius and narrow angle of attack on that divider from the factory.Next up, the port isn't polished, and I can see alot of striations. If you hit it with a much finer grit paper, it would be immensely better.NA you probably wouldn't notice anything at all.. but hooked to enough dataloggers, you'd help spool of a FI motor out by smoothing out those ports, and going back to the shallow, rounded divider on the ports.So.. I really don't know if you did anything beneficial. The objective of porting, as said before, is removing casting marks and burrs from the channels. And then usually matching the ports to the intake/exhaust manifold. Polishing end result is approaching glass smooth (not polished per se) channels. You could get this one closer to perfect by going over it with a finer paper.But, in our heads, removing too much metal has been thought to cause numerous warped heads. And, if an amatuer goes too far, he'll break through to a water jacket. Porting the valves, enlarging them, and doing a swirl valve job.. when mated with cams, is the way to go. Like WD said. Our engines LOVE to breath. Not many NA 4-cyls will gain 10-15rwhp and not lose torque when a 3" exhaust is added. A very unaggressive PNP will do the trick for smoothing out the head channels, as they aren't bad from the factory. But the valves are where the time should be focused.-Jeff

Ubernoober
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By far the easiest and most effective DIY head work would be to blend and smooth the valve pocket area. The factory casts this area thick. Best improvements are to blend the bowl area into the valve seat and to smooth and blend the short side radius. Little improvement will be gained from resizing or reshaping the port itself unless you have a flow bench.

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WDRacing
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The exhaust port isn't bad, although I'd hit it again and smooth it out alot more. The main portion of the intake/exhaust port that needs porting is near the valve. So the valve needs to come out. Also, try not to make the port to big, as a general rule I think you want the port no larger the 85% of the valve size.

WD

MarkEmark
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wannawangan wrote:Has anyone used this method? Please comment on whether this would be worth the money. I was thinking about having it done to my intake manifold and the intake and exhaust ports on the head.
Save your money...if you're going KA-T the gains aren't worth it for the price. As has been mentioned, you may as well have a custom short-runner intake manifold made for your $500.

Porting and polishing isn't nearly as important on an FI engine because the air is literally forced into the engine anyhow, and FI engines regularly achieve 100% volumetric efficiency.

If you want to do anything I'd just get larger valves, a valve job, and maybe a mild port and polish, but there's a reason not many KA-T guys with rebuilt engines bother with the port and polish....

NateDogg
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DRIFTEADOR
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^ that or run 1 more psi for free

Jeff240sx
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DRIFTEADOR wrote:^ that or run 1 more psi for free
Yeah.. that's the way to think about it : . 13whp at 170hp and 7psi on a 1.8L could and should be 30-50hp at 300-400whp levels, and twice the pressure on our 2.4L. Increase the efficiency (finesse) versus cram more air in the cylinder (force). I'll take finesse, because it's more power for the same ammount of stress on the motor.

But.. go ahead and take cheap shots at extrude honing. Sour grapes?-Jeff

skaterpunk240sx
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What is the name of this other company?

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WDRacing
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It's been 3 years dude...hell if I remember anymore


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