2001 3.5
I drove my baby approximately 75 miles with no issues, other than the P1145 code, which has been an error since I bought it, 2 years ago.
I let my husband drive it and about 3 miles into his trip, he claims, that it began missing and running really really rough. The check engine light started blinking, instead of being solid on, like normal.
My baby starts but she sounds horrible and is all shaky. I bought a reader, it was showing codes (new) p1320,p0304, p0160, p1446, p1491, p0158, p0159 and
(old code) p1145.
After visual inspection we located a red and green wire that had been chewed on under the car. We replaced it with the identical wire off our parts pathy. According to wiring diagram, wire is for Evap canister, which was one of the codes. We cleared the codes and started it. Codes p0160, p1446, p1491, p0158 and p0159 disappeared. Leaving me with codes P1320, P0304 and P1145.
I am not very knowledgeable with cars, but I have four kids, and I need my 4x4, it's winter. It's been broke about 6 weeks and well getting my husband to work on it is like pulling teeth.
Things we have changed with new:
Spark Plugs
Fuel filter
Oil filter and oil
Things we swapped out with parts pathy
All six coil packs
Both Crankshaft sensors
Camshaft sensor
what we believed to be the Ignition Condenser
Cleaned and oiled air filter.
I had read somewhere that MAF can cause the issues I am experiencing. My reader says that my MAF sensor is operating (at an idle) 4.35 g/s and at 2000 rpm 9.53 g/s.
Is this a good reading?
Is it possible that driving it with that chewed on wired fried part of my ECM?
ANYTHING AT ALL IS APPRECIATED
EXTREMELY ROUGH IDLE, LOW POWER P1320 P0304 P1145
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Stephanie33
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2018 12:47 pm
- Car: 2001 3.5 Nissan Pathfinder
Re: EXTREMELY ROUGH IDLE, LOW POWER P1320 P0304 P1145
P0304 is missing on #4 cylinder, and P1320 is a primary ignition circuit problem. Unfortunately, P1320 does not identify by cylinder number, it is a general circuit code. My first suspicion is that whatever munchkin ate your evap wire also ate one of your ignition wires.
Since you have already replaced the coil and sparkplug on #4, as well as the crank and cam sensors, your next step is to check wiring.
If you pull the #4 coil connector, there is a red wire which supplies voltage to all coils. It is supposed to be battery voltage - same on all coils. There is also a black ground wire. Check for 0 ohms resistance to ground. Then there is a green/yellow wire. This goes to terminal 30 on the ECU. It is used by the ECU to ground the power transistor in the coil and fire the sparkplug. Check for 0 ohms resistance to the ECU to be sure it is not chewed thru. You may want to check for chewed wires under the dash - sometimes critters do get inside.
I don't think your maf is the issue. You have a hard miss on cylinder 4. The maf measures air going into the engine. If it has a problem, it usually appears on all cylinders. If you can fix P1320, P0304 will go away.
There is a very small possibility that the ECU has a circuit board problem or maybe a bad solder joint affecting #4, but the first step is to do the ignition circuit tests to be sure they are ok. The problem is more likely to be in the wiring. The bad evap wires should not have affected the ECU.
That should get you off to a pretty good start. If you have the service manual, look in EC section for p1320 - the wiring diagrams are there. Also, "P1320 Nissan" will get you some vids on youtube which may help.
Since you have already replaced the coil and sparkplug on #4, as well as the crank and cam sensors, your next step is to check wiring.
If you pull the #4 coil connector, there is a red wire which supplies voltage to all coils. It is supposed to be battery voltage - same on all coils. There is also a black ground wire. Check for 0 ohms resistance to ground. Then there is a green/yellow wire. This goes to terminal 30 on the ECU. It is used by the ECU to ground the power transistor in the coil and fire the sparkplug. Check for 0 ohms resistance to the ECU to be sure it is not chewed thru. You may want to check for chewed wires under the dash - sometimes critters do get inside.
I don't think your maf is the issue. You have a hard miss on cylinder 4. The maf measures air going into the engine. If it has a problem, it usually appears on all cylinders. If you can fix P1320, P0304 will go away.
There is a very small possibility that the ECU has a circuit board problem or maybe a bad solder joint affecting #4, but the first step is to do the ignition circuit tests to be sure they are ok. The problem is more likely to be in the wiring. The bad evap wires should not have affected the ECU.
That should get you off to a pretty good start. If you have the service manual, look in EC section for p1320 - the wiring diagrams are there. Also, "P1320 Nissan" will get you some vids on youtube which may help.
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Stephanie33
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2018 12:47 pm
- Car: 2001 3.5 Nissan Pathfinder
Re: EXTREMELY ROUGH IDLE, LOW POWER P1320 P0304 P1145
Thank you! We checked, then checked again, for more chewed on wires, as I too, thought it had to be the issue, or at least the most likely. But found nothing.
I found the service manual online, and printed out the step by step directions for determining the cause of each code.
We started off checking coil packs and various sensors and made sure each was good. While doing this, I kept cross referencing with our Chiltons and on page 5-9 it explains how to ck for trigger signal, which was within range, so this means your EMC and crankshaft position sensor are working. We also checked the condenser, which was not where the Chiltons said it was, but found a video on Youtube that said it sits to the front of the engine, which is where we found it. After seeing that this too was within range, we decided to wrap the #4 coil pack in electrical tape, just for the hell of it (something I read on a forum), we put it back together and cleared the codes. She started normal, no miss, no nothing, but all 3 codes came right back, without affecting how she was running, I drove home (14 miles), code P0304, turned red (?) and other two stayed yellow. I have no clue what this means. Oh and ck engine light no longer blinks! But is on.
I am assuming that I obviously have issues and need to get to the root of the problem, but at this point, I have been without transpiration for over a month. Is it possible that I need to drive it X amount of miles before the computer stops storing these codes? Do you know why it turned red? I would like to point out that she drove home way better than she ever drove before. I think she likes her new fluids, filters and spark plugs..lol
Though my research I discovered that my MAF was within range, rule of thumb is at an idle it should move the equivalent size of your engine, so a 3.5 should be at least 3.5 g/s. And should increase under load.
I've read a lot about these coil packs, and they are not cheap, I am curious as to why all the sudden the #4 decided to start arching out, regardless which coil pack I use. Any suggestions?
I found the service manual online, and printed out the step by step directions for determining the cause of each code.
We started off checking coil packs and various sensors and made sure each was good. While doing this, I kept cross referencing with our Chiltons and on page 5-9 it explains how to ck for trigger signal, which was within range, so this means your EMC and crankshaft position sensor are working. We also checked the condenser, which was not where the Chiltons said it was, but found a video on Youtube that said it sits to the front of the engine, which is where we found it. After seeing that this too was within range, we decided to wrap the #4 coil pack in electrical tape, just for the hell of it (something I read on a forum), we put it back together and cleared the codes. She started normal, no miss, no nothing, but all 3 codes came right back, without affecting how she was running, I drove home (14 miles), code P0304, turned red (?) and other two stayed yellow. I have no clue what this means. Oh and ck engine light no longer blinks! But is on.
I am assuming that I obviously have issues and need to get to the root of the problem, but at this point, I have been without transpiration for over a month. Is it possible that I need to drive it X amount of miles before the computer stops storing these codes? Do you know why it turned red? I would like to point out that she drove home way better than she ever drove before. I think she likes her new fluids, filters and spark plugs..lol
Though my research I discovered that my MAF was within range, rule of thumb is at an idle it should move the equivalent size of your engine, so a 3.5 should be at least 3.5 g/s. And should increase under load.
I've read a lot about these coil packs, and they are not cheap, I am curious as to why all the sudden the #4 decided to start arching out, regardless which coil pack I use. Any suggestions?
Re: EXTREMELY ROUGH IDLE, LOW POWER P1320 P0304 P1145
Well, the check engine light on the dash is orange. It will flash when you have a bad miss because the computer assumes the plug for that cylinder is not firing and raw gas is getting into the catalytic converter. That can damage the converter. So you do need to address misses.
You are not showing any catalytic converter type codes so you are probably ok at this point.
The "red" you are referring to - is that your own code reader showing red? That would be specific to your code reader if that is what is happening.
As to the coil- if it is arcing, all I can think of is a bad ground, so do the electrical check on the ground wire. You should see maybe 2 or 3 ohms resistance to the battery post from the coil connector. You might also check the plug you put in - sometimes the insulators crack when you are installing them. So you could have a bad plug even tho it is new. I have had that happen.
You could also swap in another coil pack since you have spares - you can find a decent price on coil packs on ebay if need be.
If you have cleared codes, including pending codes, they should not reappear unless you still have the problem. Make sure your reader can clear pending codes as well.
Off to bed - let us know what you find!
You are not showing any catalytic converter type codes so you are probably ok at this point.
The "red" you are referring to - is that your own code reader showing red? That would be specific to your code reader if that is what is happening.
As to the coil- if it is arcing, all I can think of is a bad ground, so do the electrical check on the ground wire. You should see maybe 2 or 3 ohms resistance to the battery post from the coil connector. You might also check the plug you put in - sometimes the insulators crack when you are installing them. So you could have a bad plug even tho it is new. I have had that happen.
You could also swap in another coil pack since you have spares - you can find a decent price on coil packs on ebay if need be.
If you have cleared codes, including pending codes, they should not reappear unless you still have the problem. Make sure your reader can clear pending codes as well.
Off to bed - let us know what you find!