Experience with 5w30 vs 10w30

[biggie]

Been using Mobil 1 5w30 in my '03 and thinking about switching to 10w30. Already running it in another car, so could save me a little money buying in bulk.

Anyone switched between the 2 in a VQ and tell any difference? Any effects at all?

Thanks

[RED_DET]

I normally run 5w in the winter and 10w in the summer. Don't know if it effects anything at all, there was still consumption issues. Got a new motor and 1600 miles later, it consumes oil as well.

[joe603]

Ran 10W40 in my 05 coupe...she seemed to really like it. Never burned a drop of oil! Of course I used Royal Purple though.

[biggie]

Cool, thanks. I'll probably just run 10w40 year round, buying cases at Sam's Club should save me a little.

Have to do an oil change this weekend, dread the lower panel removal already.

[joe603]

It's just a few bolts...at least our oil filter is easy to get too/drain. My Mitsu is terrible!

The only reason I ran a 10W oil was due to the oil consumption issues with the REVUP engines. Do they sell RP at Sam's Club?

[biggie]

It's just a few bolts...at least our oil filter is easy to get too/drain. My Mitsu is terrible!

The only reason I ran a 10W oil was due to the oil consumption issues with the REVUP engines. Do they sell RP at Sam's Club?

Its like 20 bolts last I remember. But yes filter is much better than my KA engines. I'll get the alum undertray from 'tollbooth' as soon as money allows.

No RP at Sam's I'm running Mobil 1. Its about $5 a quart for a box at Sam's.

[telcoman]

Its like 20 bolts last I remember. But yes filter is much better than my KA engines. I'll get the alum undertray from 'tollbooth' as soon as money allows.

No RP at Sam's I'm running Mobil 1. Its about $5 a quart for a box at Sam's.

Its fourteen bolts and only takes 2 minutes to remove them

Use a cordless drill with a 3/8" socket adapter and a 10mm socket.

Just did my 35th oil change yesterday. I use 5w-30 but did use 10w-30 for awhile when new as it was using 1qt/1000 mles.



Telcoman

[biggie]

Its fourteen bolts and only takes 2 minutes to remove them

Use a cordless drill with a 3/8" socket adapter and a 10mm socket.

Just did my 35th oil change yesterday. I use 5w-30 but did use 10w-30 for awhile when new as it was using 1qt/1000 mles.

Telcoman

I have a cordless and everything. But I have to remove more than 14 bolts. Including ones for the plastic lip, etc. I tried to remove less but it wouldn't get out of the way without removing almost every bolt under there.

[Road Ruler]

The cordless drill idea works but still a pain.

I need to change my oil/filter in the next week or two.

Have thought about ideas to make the change easier.

I thought of the idea of using a jig saw to cut a larger hole to get at the filter and drain plug. The piece of under tray cover can be hinged and reinstalled. Make some king of simple latch to secure.

To access the filter one would simple turn the latch and the small panel would swing down (on the hinge). Would take a second to do.

Will look into this idea a follow up. If I go through with it I will take pics and post.

Always looking for a better mouse trap,

[chasracer]

Geezzz, I take out two bolts, reach in there and take off the filter and let it drain. Put new filter on and then wipe up any oil with a rag. Haven't taken that piece of plastic off the first time yet.

[tollboothwilley]

Geezzz, I take out two bolts, reach in there and take off the filter and let it drain. Put new filter on and then wipe up any oil with a rag. Haven't taken that piece of plastic off the first time yet.

I don't have to worry about using a drill, or making a mess



Did I mention that its way stronger than stock?
haha


Biggie, I've heard some shops say that the VQ like 10w-30. I don't think it really matters to be honest. 10w-30 is fine unless you have really cold winters, then you're just putting extra work on your oil pump.

[SVTCOBRA]

No RP at Sam's I'm running Mobil 1. Its about $5 a quart for a box at Sam's.

Last time I was at Wally world, Mobil 1 was $23 for a 5 quart jug...I got 4 jugs while I was there.

Using Rhino Ramps and a short cordless drill works great.
My Milwaukee hammer drill was too long for the back bolts, so I got an inexpensive 12v Hatatchi. (I justify new tools by the money I save doing my oil maintenance!)
Tools are like fishing rods, you can't have too many!!!

[Ellison@FCPImport]

The previous owner used 5w-40 so I stuck with it and I use LubroMoly Synthetic Oil. So far so good. I haven't noticed any oil consumption and I have been on a trip from CT to Florida with it with no issues or burn off. Did a seafoam treatment as well before doing my first oil change on it since buying it.

[biggie]

Last time I was at Wally world, Mobil 1 was $23 for a 5 quart jug...I got 4 jugs while I was there.

Using Rhino Ramps and a short cordless drill works great.
My Milwaukee hammer drill was too long for the back bolts, so I got an inexpensive 12v Hatatchi. (I justify new tools by the money I save doing my oil maintenance!)
Tools are like fishing rods, you can't have too many!!!

Yeah, now noticing that the 5 qt jugs at walmart are cheaper, will be rolling with them.

Still need to find some ramps that will work for me, the walmart ones look pretty low, but will have to measure.

I have about too many tools now, keep adding them.

[kosmo69]

Why do you want to got to a 10w? As mention above the 10w would put more strain on your pump + the 5w is "better" at cold start up when most engine wear occurs in street cars.

[kosmo69]

The cordless drill idea works but still a pain.

I need to change my oil/filter in the next week or two.

Have thought about ideas to make the change easier.

I thought of the idea of using a jig saw to cut a larger hole to get at the filter and drain plug. The piece of under tray cover can be hinged and reinstalled. Make some king of simple latch to secure.

To access the filter one would simple turn the latch and the small panel would swing down (on the hinge). Would take a second to do.

Will look into this idea a follow up. If I go through with it I will take pics and post.

Always looking for a better mouse trap,

you know thats a great idea. I have a access panel on my Bimmer and have wondered why Nissan doesnt do this. Prob to discourage DIY's and help out the dealers?!!!

[biggie]

Why do you want to got to a 10w? As mention above the 10w would put more strain on your pump + the 5w is "better" at cold start up when most engine wear occurs in street cars.

It was mainly to save money on buying bulk oil since 2 cars would be using the same.

As hot as it is here already I'm sure hte 10w isn't really different than the 5w during winter (car is always in a garage or parking garage so at start up the temps aren't varying much).

I will probably go back to 5w for winter.

[SVTCOBRA]

Yeah, now noticing that the 5 qt jugs at walmart are cheaper, will be rolling with them.

Still need to find some ramps that will work for me, the walmart ones look pretty low, but will have to measure.

I have about too many tools now, keep adding them.

Autozone had the 5+ jugs and mobil 1 filter combo for $29 yesterday plus you get reward points.

I put a couple of 2x6's in front of my rhino ramps so my coupe doesn't rub going up them.
As worked for my lowered cobra...which was lower than my coupe.

[CougarRed]

The owners manual specifies an API-certified 5W-30 oil.

You can use a synthetic oil like RedLine or Royal Purple that's not API certified, and you should be fine.

Or you can use a different weight oil than 5W-30 and you should be fine.

However, if you are under warranty and:

1) You use an oil not specified by the manual, and
2) You develop an issue caused in part by improper lubrication

Then you may be SOL on your warranty.

Fortunately, there's a relatively inexpensive synthetic 5W-30 oil that is both API-certified and proven to love the VQ37 engine in various UOAs I have seen:

Eneos 5W-30.

6 quarts delivered to your door from Amazon for $41.94.

[joe603]

The owners manual specifies an API-certified 5W-30 oil.

You can use a synthetic oil like RedLine or Royal Purple that's not API certified, and you should be fine.

Or you can use a different weight oil than 5W-30 and you should be fine.

However, if you are under warranty and:

1) You use an oil not specified by the manual, and
2) You develop an issue caused in part by improper lubrication

Then you may be SOL on your warranty.

Fortunately, there's a relatively inexpensive synthetic 5W-30 oil that is both API-certified and proven to love the VQ37 engine in various UOAs I have seen:

Eneos 5W-30.

6 quarts delivered to your door from Amazon for $41.94.

1st, He's got an 03...no warranty.

2nd, 10w oil is fine to use even if he was under warranty.

3rd Royal Purple is API licensed. Direct from their website:

Royal Purple’s motor oils for passenger cars and trucks are API licensed. For those seeking enhanced performance in high performance vehicles not under warranty, we recommend our XPR – Extreme Performance and Racing motor oil.

The manual has a range of oil you can use. This is direct from the Owner's manual:

SAE 5W-30 viscosity oil is preferred for all
ambient temperatures. SAE 10W-30,
10W-40 viscosity oil may be used if the ambient
temperature is above 0°F (−18°C).

[CougarRed]

1st, He's got an 03...no warranty.

Ooops! My bad.

3rd Royal Purple is API licensed. Direct from their website:

Royal Purple’s motor oils for passenger cars and trucks are API licensed. For those seeking enhanced performance in high performance vehicles not under warranty, we recommend our XPR – Extreme Performance and Racing motor oil.

I don't have a clue what "API licensed" means, but page 9-6 of the 2010 manual states:

"Select only engine oils that meet the API or ISLAC certification. These oils have the API Certification mark on the front of the container."

The API Certification mark is the starburst circle with "For Gasoline Engines" written in the middle of the circle. There's a picture of the stamp in the manual.

Royal Purple has no such mark on its container. Neither does RedLine. Or Motul. You'd think they'd put the mark on their containers if they were API certified.

The manual has a range of oil you can use. This is direct from the Owner's manual:

SAE 5W-30 viscosity oil is preferred for all
ambient temperatures. SAE 10W-30,
10W-40 viscosity oil may be used if the ambient
temperature is above 0°F (−18°C).

Which manual says this? It's not in the 2010 manual, which is vague about temperatures and ends with a warning:

"The engine oil viscosity or thickness changes with temperature. Because of this, it is important that the engine oil viscosity be selected based on the temperatures at which the vehicle will be operated before the next oil change.Choosing an oil viscosity other than that recommended could cause serious engine damage. . .

Damage to engines caused by . . . use of incorrect oil and/or viscosity is not covered by the new INFINITI vehicle limited warranties."

[G_whizz]

Which manual says this? It's not in the 2010 manual, which is vague about temperatures and ends with a warning:

2010's are recommended to use Esther Oil...no?? thus making this...apples to oranges..

[joe603]

My post was from a 2005 manual, the farthest that Infiniti goes back. I just looked a the 2010 manual and you're correct, it does not have that table. The main difference here is a G35 vs. a G37.

I'll have to check my RP containers when I get home...I thought I saw the API seal.

Sean, yes they recommend Ester oil, but it's not required. Stick to a good synthetic 5W-30.