(Factually) That is not true. The physical engine's ability to withstand added power as well as the engine itself is the most important choice you can make for a car. The build quality of the engine can make or break that precious turbo you speak of. Once you've found the engine to be competent enough to handle more power, engine management and tuning are the next items that shape your car's attitude. Once you've gotten that sorted, then you can start factoring in turbocharger choices as well as manifolds, etc, etc. A T3/T04B is a good turbo, albeit a bit primitive in today's standard, but it will suffice for your quest. Your GTX3071R is a great choice as well. More efficient, better construction and a dual ballbearing CHRA will put you in a better place once all the other stuff is coveredaintnobiscuit wrote:If I'm not on a budget?
The turbo is one of the most important choices you make for a car (in my opinion) as it dictates the way the care behaves and what it is capable of.
I am also considering the gtx3071r.
I currently run a GT3076R on my sentra which is now sold and will be on it's way Jamaica shortly and will be replace with a precision GT35R dual BB unit. I used to run the T3/T04B with a .48 back housing and that was a really good turbo back in 2001. The GT3076R is just a really great turbo IMHO. I run a Garrett GT35R in my 240 and that is also a really responsive and wonderful turbo for the CA18. That car put down 536whp @ 31psi of boost without even seriously tuning it. The GT3582R is the all purpose turbo for the CA18, but if you are a horrible tuner or don't know how to tune, you won't be happy with it.aintnobiscuit wrote:I guess I just figured you guys remembered me from previous posts. Engine is fully built with cp pistons, brand new valve train parts with everythig that can be upgraded, pauter rods, acl race bearings for the mains and rods, Tomei cams. Haltech, Tubular manifold, mishimoto intercooler, arp main bolts and arp studs.
Btw, I didn't blow my head gasket. It turns out my CAS came unplugged. It's missing the lock pin. Gotta get that before I drive again.
So I agree with you the engine has to be able to withstand your power goals. But if your engine is built, the turbo defined the characteristics of the engine. Cams, port and polish, timing all affect the characteristics, but the turbo defined the broad strokes of how much power and what the power and looks like.
Do either of you have experience with either of these turbos or have a suggestion that you really like? I can look at and plot on the maps myself to see what it would be like. I guess I'm just looking for validation or other ideas
It's a really nice turbo, but the farthest I drove the car was around the block on 18 psi of boost and it fully came on at or around 4300rpm; with a .48 backhousing of course.aintnobiscuit wrote:How is the gt3076? What kind of numbers are you hitting at what psi? When do you see full boost?:D
The 35R hits full boost at or around 5000-5200rpm with a .63 backhousing. Just ridiculous and fun to drive off bosst as well. Again, the way I tune my street cars, I supplement the lag with some good 'ol "fill in the blank" tuning.aintnobiscuit wrote:What about the gt35r?:D
That's what we are here for. I can tell the fanboys that like to window-shop when they appear. No biggie.aintnobiscuit wrote:Thank you guysI really appreciate the help. I'm actually going to use this info not just another "oh hey, tell me turbo stuff and I'm going to talk about mods ill never do to my car" thread

