Went into the coffee shop... come out and start my car is sounds like hell...
instead of the exhaust sounds like the regular "hummmmmmmm"
its more like "chug chug chug chug chug chug"....
exhaust leak? improper back pressure?
Exhaust problem
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quiksilvia
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ok .. it was a 30 or 40 minute time in the coffee shop... i just got the factory service manual... i'll look through it tomorrow...
My buddy is letting me take it into the shop he works and and hoist the sucker up... i'll prolly have a better look at it from under there.
I also just bought a universal muffler off ebay and I was thinking of sticking it on. Then this incident occured and made me think twice.
My buddy is letting me take it into the shop he works and and hoist the sucker up... i'll prolly have a better look at it from under there.
I also just bought a universal muffler off ebay and I was thinking of sticking it on. Then this incident occured and made me think twice.
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quiksilvia
- Posts: 3197
- Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2003 7:09 am
- Car: 95 s14 se
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been running some injector cleaner and no results yet...
I did some tests and found out that it is cylinder 1 that is not performing. I took the harness off the injector and tested it and it still has juice. I took the spark plug out and it was pretty low... so I hope that I may be able to change the plug and have it work again.
Is there anything I can do before going out and buying a new plug... is it a good idea to just buy a single plug and order a 4pack of the iridium ones off ebay?
I did some tests and found out that it is cylinder 1 that is not performing. I took the harness off the injector and tested it and it still has juice. I took the spark plug out and it was pretty low... so I hope that I may be able to change the plug and have it work again.
Is there anything I can do before going out and buying a new plug... is it a good idea to just buy a single plug and order a 4pack of the iridium ones off ebay?
okay... i tested the resistance between cyl1 and cyl2 and they read the same... the second part of your response I'm not too clear on...
Pull out injector 1 and see if the windings are open? If I am to pull out injector 1 is there a specific way to go about ejecting the injector from where it is seated?
Pull out injector 1 and see if the windings are open? If I am to pull out injector 1 is there a specific way to go about ejecting the injector from where it is seated?
no dont pull the injector out. what i was saying is that if the injector tested open(no continuity) that was what the problem would have been. but since it tested equal to #2 it is ok. no need to pull it out.
do the plug thing you mentioned and see if it follows it.
also be aware these cars had a problem in the harness that runs along the valve cover with the ground splice inside the conduit coming apart. to check if that might be the problem grb the harnes and slowly move it back and forth along the valve cover while the cars running and see if it effects it.
What I find odd is you said when you tapped the injector it started running fine. I am curious as to why that helped you problem before. Does the injector connector have corrosion in it? Its like a green crusty substance that builds up do to moisture inside the connections.
do the plug thing you mentioned and see if it follows it.
also be aware these cars had a problem in the harness that runs along the valve cover with the ground splice inside the conduit coming apart. to check if that might be the problem grb the harnes and slowly move it back and forth along the valve cover while the cars running and see if it effects it.
What I find odd is you said when you tapped the injector it started running fine. I am curious as to why that helped you problem before. Does the injector connector have corrosion in it? Its like a green crusty substance that builds up do to moisture inside the connections.
i swapped the plugs in cyl 1 &2 and cyl 1 is still out.
there doesn't appear to be any corrosion on the harness, but i will double check in a bit when I go out to test the harness ground
yes the first time as soon as i tapped the 1st cyl injector it shot back into play and was working fine until the next startup
there doesn't appear to be any corrosion on the harness, but i will double check in a bit when I go out to test the harness ground
yes the first time as soon as i tapped the 1st cyl injector it shot back into play and was working fine until the next startup
you dont need to unhook any part of the harness or open any of the caseing. just move it a little bit. if theres a problem that will be all it takes to set it off. cause it doesnt move a whole lot when the car is running. I am thinking it has to be injector related since hitting it helped at least once. you may just have something plugged in it and the cleaner isnt strong enough to break it up. or it could just be getting stuck closed.
with the car running place a long screw driver on that injector and listen to it by putting your ear on the handle of the screw driver. compare the sound to the other three injectors. is the sound from it as loud as the other three? be very attentive here because the clicking from the other three injectors will transmit through the rail and be heard at that injector. it just wont be as intense as the other three. if it is not as loud that means the injector is mechanically stuck closed.
with the car running place a long screw driver on that injector and listen to it by putting your ear on the handle of the screw driver. compare the sound to the other three injectors. is the sound from it as loud as the other three? be very attentive here because the clicking from the other three injectors will transmit through the rail and be heard at that injector. it just wont be as intense as the other three. if it is not as loud that means the injector is mechanically stuck closed.
i believe the injector is mechanically stuck close after doing what you said NISTECH... it does sound a little more faint than the rest of the cylinders...
I'm not the most knowledgable in mechanics... how would I go about checking the compression? I'm guessing I'd need some sort of compression gauge that I'd stick in the sparkplug slot of cyl 1?
I'm not the most knowledgable in mechanics... how would I go about checking the compression? I'm guessing I'd need some sort of compression gauge that I'd stick in the sparkplug slot of cyl 1?
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quiksilvia
- Posts: 3197
- Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2003 7:09 am
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I do believe you have an injector failing by what you said.
but if you wanna do a compression test for your own peice of mind follow this procedure.
when doing the compression test , have the key off and use a remote starter button you clip to the start signal wire and the battery. that way the injectors are not shooting fuel into the cyl's that would alter your readings. it also kills your spark as well. be sure you hold the throttle plate wide open while doing your test.while holding the trigger on your remote count the revolutions of the engine do them all about 8 revolutions. Just listen for the humps in engine speed while cranking. those are your revolutions. following those simple procedures will give you the most accurate and consistant readings.
but if you wanna do a compression test for your own peice of mind follow this procedure.
when doing the compression test , have the key off and use a remote starter button you clip to the start signal wire and the battery. that way the injectors are not shooting fuel into the cyl's that would alter your readings. it also kills your spark as well. be sure you hold the throttle plate wide open while doing your test.while holding the trigger on your remote count the revolutions of the engine do them all about 8 revolutions. Just listen for the humps in engine speed while cranking. those are your revolutions. following those simple procedures will give you the most accurate and consistant readings.
if you have the dual over head cam, as I suspect you do, it is relitively easy to replace just the one injector. You may need to match the color of the dot on the injector. Blue or black I think are your options. The hardest part of replacing it will be removeing the old one. They are in there pretty tight. Here is a quick run down on how to do it.
Remove the 2 phillips screws holding the cap down. When attempting to loosen these 2 screws use a #2 phillips screw driver and leaning into the screw driver with your weight turn it to loosen it. these screw heads will strip very easily if you do not make sure the screw driver bit is firmly pressed into the head of the screw. then once they are both out lift the cap off. Now is the hard part you need to rotate the injector in its bore while pulling on it. this takes some finess but also force to get it to pop out. The way I use to do this is very effective. I have in my possesion a pair of needle nose hose pliers that I use to remove this style of fuel injector. There are 2 holes on either side of the top of the injector. I place the tips of the pliers in the holes grip the pliers to hold the tips in the injector. I rotate it side to side while steadily pulling up on the injector untill it pops out. If you squeeze your pliers to hard you will crush the injectors plastic top so its a steady balance of keeping the tips in and not crushing the injector. at the same time I am prying up on the injector at the base of where the electrical connection area of the injector is with a flat head screw driver. It usually just pops right out. once you have it out spray some carb clean in the injector cavity to clean any sand substance remaining. Note here: dont flood it with carb clean a couple of quick burst should be enough.then lube the new injector orings with silicone lube and press it back in. once it pops in put your cap back on ,plug the injector in and fire it up.
Remove the 2 phillips screws holding the cap down. When attempting to loosen these 2 screws use a #2 phillips screw driver and leaning into the screw driver with your weight turn it to loosen it. these screw heads will strip very easily if you do not make sure the screw driver bit is firmly pressed into the head of the screw. then once they are both out lift the cap off. Now is the hard part you need to rotate the injector in its bore while pulling on it. this takes some finess but also force to get it to pop out. The way I use to do this is very effective. I have in my possesion a pair of needle nose hose pliers that I use to remove this style of fuel injector. There are 2 holes on either side of the top of the injector. I place the tips of the pliers in the holes grip the pliers to hold the tips in the injector. I rotate it side to side while steadily pulling up on the injector untill it pops out. If you squeeze your pliers to hard you will crush the injectors plastic top so its a steady balance of keeping the tips in and not crushing the injector. at the same time I am prying up on the injector at the base of where the electrical connection area of the injector is with a flat head screw driver. It usually just pops right out. once you have it out spray some carb clean in the injector cavity to clean any sand substance remaining. Note here: dont flood it with carb clean a couple of quick burst should be enough.then lube the new injector orings with silicone lube and press it back in. once it pops in put your cap back on ,plug the injector in and fire it up.
try jiggling the wires that runs to each injector. If you see that your engine starts to shake then it's with the connector. I had a crappy idle until today when I started to jiggle the injector wires on both 1 and 2 and found that in certain positions they connect better to the injector and thus smoothed out the shaking. Give that a shot.
FUDGE!
Ok... went to the parts store around here and he said he'd have to order my injector in and recommended that I pull my injector and take a look to see if there is any carbon buildup on it.
So i pulled the injector and he mentions to start it up and see if the injector sprays (i have no clue why i did such a stupid thing)
anyways... few revs later gas is all over my manifold and when i get the injector plugged back in all i get is some nasty @$$ white smoke coming out my exhaust.... and yes, the car is still only running 3 cylinders!
Should I take my car to a mechanic to double check before I go spend $200 on an injector? what am i burning that is creating this mad white smoke. The smoke seems to be consistent (however i've only let it run for 5 minutes or so).
PLEASE HELP ME!
So i pulled the injector and he mentions to start it up and see if the injector sprays (i have no clue why i did such a stupid thing)
anyways... few revs later gas is all over my manifold and when i get the injector plugged back in all i get is some nasty @$$ white smoke coming out my exhaust.... and yes, the car is still only running 3 cylinders!
Should I take my car to a mechanic to double check before I go spend $200 on an injector? what am i burning that is creating this mad white smoke. The smoke seems to be consistent (however i've only let it run for 5 minutes or so).
PLEASE HELP ME!
the smoke is fuel vapor most likely. why he told you to do that is beyond me. if you have the type of injector that has the rubber hose on top of it you can check injector flow that way but with the insert type injector that sits in the rail all you'll do is have fuel pump out of the rail and the injector relies on being in that hole to recieve fuel. you could try one from a wreaker but be sure you get one with the same color dot on it as the rest in your rail. but theres no guarantee the wreakin yard injector will work.
heres some stock injectors for $20 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=6763