Exhaust manifold studs breaking? (and replacement part?)

[2FourTee]

I'm piecing together a turbo kit right now and while doing that, I have been amazed at the number of people that have broken the exhaust manifold studs so easily, especially that first one next to the distributor.

I am already planning on using a torch and some PB blaster to help, but what exactly can you do when it breaks????

Where can you find a replacement??

I know you can get one from ARP, but does anyone know the part #??

I would like to know so I can have a few spares on hand prior to doing my turbo install. I am trying to minimize downtime as much as possible here.
Modified by 2FourTee at 7:21 AM 7/27/2006

[WDRacing]

PB B;aster is a great start, one night to soak free'd mine all up. I snapped 2 after 3 or 4 removals. So I pulled a stud out by hand using the 2 nut method, took it to Ace and they had some suitable subs. They even stock the Grade 8 bolts/studs. While you're there, pick up a thread chaser/cleaner if you have some spare cash.

Hopefully your Ace stocks the studs.

WD

[rotorimp]

Call ARP give them length, size and pitch. When I called for my RB my studs were 55mm length,10mm X 1.25 pitch

[2FourTee]

Thanks for the suggestions. Hopefully Ace or another hardware store will have them if I need them.

The only problem with calling arp is I will not know the length and specs until I am actually putting the turbo kit on. ANd I cannot afford to be down and waiting for a stud for a week.

I am hoping someone will reply to this who knows the specs to give to ARP, or possibly the part number.

[C-Kwik]

If there is no way to grab the stud, you'll probably need an easy out. If it broke while trying to remove the nut, then you'll definitely need a good penetrating lubricant to help free it up.

The factory studs are actually pretty good. If you can't find them elsewhere, I found that dealers usually stock them (I'm sure many people bring in cars that have studs missing). They also stock the corresponding nuts(which I highly recommend using as they can withstand the heat and are mechanical locknuts. The turbo mani I had used used the same size studs for the turbo flange and I found these nuts were the best solution to keep the turbo mounted securely. Even the serrated washers Corky Bell recommends in his book only prolonged the tiem before the nuts come loose, but they still came loose.

When you install the turbo manifold, check how much clearance you have around the studs. Particularly the closer you get to the front an back of the motor. As the manifold heats up under use, it will expand. You should have a little bit of extra room so that as the manifold expands the holes for the studs don't push out on the studs possible shearing them off.

[WDRacing]

Buy lock wire nuts if you have the option. Safety wire the nuts together...we safety wire almost everything on the USAF Helo's. That with the lock washers(serated type, not split type) should work very well together. Me I use the stock washers and stock nuts and have had no issues.

WD