Exhaust Manifold Stud

[Conrad 2NR]

I'm looking for a replacement to Nissan's exhaust manifold bolts for the RB25.

I have the specs for the bolts but I've been unable to source any studs from fastener shops in my area. The closest I've got is an M10 x 1.25 pitch x 40mm.

If possible I'll like to get an entire kit.

[touge whore]

try ebay. ive seen arp and oem replacement on there.

[bigfootap]

http://rawbrokerage.com/Raw-Brokerage-E ... hstuds.htm

There ya go

[d356bud]

you can get oem ones here:

http://www.nismoparts.com/catalog/?section=935

[Conrad 2NR]

I can probably get OEM from the dealer nearby

BUT

is it an inherent manufacturer fault that causes the stock studs to snap or is it simply due to the amount of heat cycles it would've gone through while it was on there?

I ask this because I was considering the Raw Brokerage kit but it's soooo much more expensive than OEM just for 12 bolts and nuts.

[ncturbospecv]

I had 2 broken ones with my motorset. Went to ACE and they had the same size studs there so i replaced mine will all new ones from there.

[LSDrift]

I took one of the OEM studs down to the local Nissan dealer and they matched them up to some brand new studs that come out of like a Titan V8 or something but they fit really nice and come with a nut/washer combo. Pretty slick...

[Conrad 2NR]

I would be really greatful if you can find what part number it is. If they're the very same stock part numbers that I've picked up from on here I may as well buy those.

[LSDrift]

Ok I'll have to get back to ya once I get home and get a chance to look at them.

[Conrad 2NR]

Is it ok to use a fully threaded stainless steel stud?

Just looking at alternative options before I spring for the Raw Brokerage kit.

[Genpac]

Problem is, M10 1.25 thread pitch is not standard. You will only find a handful of M10 1.25 hardware on even McMasterCarr's website. Make sure you replace the spring washers as they often crack and become brittle like the studs do over time. they are concave and retain pressure on the Yokes.

[Conrad 2NR]

Problem is, M10 1.25 thread pitch is not standard. You will only find a handful of M10 1.25 hardware on even McMasterCarr's website. Make sure you replace the spring washers as they often crack and become brittle like the studs do over time. they are concave and retain pressure on the Yokes.

Thanks for that advice.

In the pic that is provided on Raw Brokerage there are only studs and washers as far as I can tell. Can anyone confirm if all that is needed is provided by Raw Brokerage?

[LSDrift]

Hey sorry this took so long but when I bought the stud I only replaced one of them and they gave it to me in the bag that the nut came in but here is the part number that will correspond to the nut/washer that goes standard with the stud I bought.

14094-JG30A

I just searched it on google and found a site that led me to a 14064-JG30A for the stud which is out of a 2009 Armada.

Hope this helps!

[Conrad 2NR]

Helps a lot! Thanks so much, would check my local dealer later on this week.

[Genpac]

Problem is, M10 1.25 thread pitch is not standard. You will only find a handful of M10 1.25 hardware on even McMasterCarr's website. Make sure you replace the spring washers as they often crack and become brittle like the studs do over time. they are concave and retain pressure on the Yokes.

Thanks for that advice.

In the pic that is provided on Raw Brokerage there are only studs and washers as far as I can tell. Can anyone confirm if all that is needed is provided by Raw Brokerage?

I don't know if they provide the OE spec conical/concave washers but the OE manifold hardware arrangement (for each stud) Head - stud - manifold - yoke - concave washer - stover locknut
The yokes are two different sizes. Cylinders 1,2,5 and 6 all use the larger diameter yokes, cylinders 3 and 4 use the smaller diameter yokes. The yokes spread the torque load over a greater surface area and negate any issue from the slotted manifold holes for alignment. I recommend you also take the opportunity to get some heatwrap around the manifold before installing it back on the motor, unless you're re-utilizing the OE heatshields.

[rswails]

In your case if you don't mind waiting on shipping, the best bet is to just get those OEM replacement ones. It is a huge waste of money to get the zinc coated ones that are $80ish.

Now if you are ever impatient, or can't find the right length bolt/stud in the future, read on...

Don't forget if you ever have a bolt, ( or stud ) that is too long, you can always cut it to length with a hacksaw, and then do some work on the end to repair the newly damaged end threads. Here is one link with pics, http://www.instructables.com/id/quick-b ... -tutorial/

You can also manually file the end to repair it after cutting to desired length. This method takes practice, but is well worth the newly added skill imo. A good thread file also works, that means not made in china/taiwan. I've used a thread file from the autozone loaner tool program, and they sucked balls. The metal was not hardened tool steel and thus didn't cut the bolt metal well at all.

[Conrad 2NR]

Gave in and bought OEM.

12 x Studs
PN: 01151-00471

Measurements: M10 x 1.25pitch x 50mm
12mm thread
16mm non-threaded
22mm thread

12 x Nuts
PN: 08912-8401A
1.25 pitch with very small dimples and notches on the conical side


The following part numbers didn't work for me, probably due to me being in a different domestic market. Would re-use old ones.
8 x Larger Yoke
PN: 14037-42L01
4 x Smaller Yoke
PN: 14037-42L02
12 x Washers
PN: 14037-01E00