Exhaust Manifold stud install

[josephrm]

I see nothing in the engine manual for the RB engines about how exhaust manifold studs should be installed in the head. Do you just put locktite on them and sink them all of the way into the head, or is there a specific torque value? If anyone could just direct me to the chapter in the engine manual regarding this, that would be fine. Thanks.

[s13point5]

i couldnt really find a torque spec for the studs themselves. just go until you reach the straight middle section of the stud. the nuts are torqued down to 18-24 newton meters tho if you were wondering

[Darius]

hand tighten with anti-seize on the threads, then torque the nuts to spec.

[integra7]

thats not right....

torque the exhaust manifold studs down to 20 ft-lbs using a stud installer or double nut.

[Sil240]

thats not right....

torque the exhaust manifold studs down to 20 ft-lbs using a stud installer or double nut.

What??????

Darius is exactly corect.

HAND tighten the stud then put the mani on and Torque to spec.

[Shocker]

thats how arp headstuds are installed, hand tightened then torqued to specs.

[integra7]

check the fsm for the rb25

[josephrm]

i appreciate it guys. this is for an rb20, but i could find nothing in the fsm for it. thanks for the help.

[Sil240]

check the fsm for the rb25

Please let me know Exactly where I can find this in the FSM.

Because I am Very intersted in seeing this for myself.

Read this link:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/19/32/

[Darius]

Okay now even I'm confused here. These statements are from the R33 FSM...

For the RB20, on page EN-76 there's no mention of tightening the studs. For the RB26, on page EN-178 no mention of tightening studs either.

However, for the RB25, on page EN-116 there's some crack-headed translation about using double nuts to tighten the studs to 27-31 Nm. But that torque is obviously for the nuts and not the studs.

General concensus is that you don't need to do anything more than hand tighten them. I don't think it would hurt if you tightened them a bit if you really wanted to.

[Suicide.Veteran]

i just got my ARP's nice and lubed up with some gear oil, and hand twisted them in, if they stopped threading, I would back it out and spray shop air in the hole to clear it.

[integra7]

just took a look at the fsm and noticed that it is alittle unclear.

i've worked on multiple motors before and all i really do is thread on the stud using a double nut and then give it another 1/8 of a turn and you are set. no real need to pay so much attention to torque specs here.

Sil240, in that article...if you are torque down the stud to the point where you distort the mating surface....at that point, you obviously have gone too far. hopefully no one is applying that much torque to a stud. i dont know about you, but 20ft-lbs is not hard to apply with your hands.

[Sil240]

I'm no expert myself I just know what I've been told by professional racers (Vinny Tenn), while I was building my motor.

I was told thread them in finger tight the put on the mani and screw the nuts on.

But I've already had multiple stud break when I took my mani off so i'm not trying to mess around with it again.

Torque'em if you want to, but invest on a Helicoil kit. lol

[integra7]

on turbo cars, exhaust manifold studs break all the time because of the heat generated around the turbo(s)...just part of the game.

i ordered a whole new set when i rebuilt my motor....2 of mine were broken

what does a helicoil kit have to do with this thread?

Are you assumming that the thread in the head is ruined if you torque it down?

Never seen that happen before. That's kind of extreme.

[Sil240]

Take a guess what the helicoil kit is for.. lol

When you break the stud in the head...

[integra7]

i know what i helicoil kit is for.....

most of the time people refer to them for thread repair

if your stud breaks...no need for thread repair.

[Shocker]

i know what i helicoil kit is for.....

most of the time people refer to them for thread repair

if your stud breaks...no need for thread repair.

well yeah.. If your stud snaps off flush with your head. I tired removing one with an ezy out, snapped it. Did my other with a helicoil and it worked great. No other way of removing it unless you could somehow get a good weld on the end of it, and use something to remove it that way..

[RB_Dreamin]

If you are using helicoil for exhaust manifold studs, you are doing something wrong.

Stud extraction is not that hard, even if the broken stud is not flush.

[Sil240]

If you are using helicoil for exhaust manifold studs, you are doing something wrong.

Stud extraction is not that hard, even if the broken stud is not flush.

Really......I should of called you over because it was a beyatch.I like shocker broke a ez-out and then just took it to the machine shop to have them take it out.

[Shocker]

No it is hard man. Both of my broken studs where less than flush, they where slightly recessed into the head. There is no other way of removing it. Other than the two ways I stated above.

Sure if it snapped off leaving some of the stud sticking out I'd be able to get a pair of vise grips or something onto it. But that wasnt the case at all.

Heliocoli made it very easy.

[Sil240]

Oh yeah I was just being sarcastic...I know it's hard.This kid aparantly has the magic touch.But for those without it, leaves the two other options.

[Shocker]

Oh yeah I was just being sarcastic...I know it's hard.This kid aparantly has the magic touch.But for those without it, leaves the two other options.

yeah I know you where lol, I was directing it to him.

yup breaking bolts/studs sucks. Plain and Simple.

[RB_Dreamin]

Breaking bolts/studs does suck but as long as you have the right tools, its nothing to stress over.

Were you using some cheap advance auto parts easy-out kit?

[Sil240]

Craftsman

[l0nestar]

Weird. I had two studs recessed in the head when I got my half-cut. After I removed the exhaust manifold and the rest of the studs, I used a a tool from Craftsman for recessed stud removal. I cannot remember the name, but I think it was just referred to as a 'broken stud extractor' or remover (Might be an easy-out, but I do not think that is what it was called on packaging.)

All I did was set the bit into the hole with the broken stud, smacked it with a hammer a few times to set it, then turned it with a large adjustable spanning wrench. The threads were left-handed so they would bite into the material. It worked like a charm. No issues, very straight foreword.

Also, listen to Integra7, he knows what he is doing.
Modified by l0nestar at 10:43 PM 4/21/2007

[Carl H]

easy outs = worthless.ive found that those spiral extractors work well...just gotta drill on center.

[Shocker]

easy outs = worthless.ive found that those spiral extractors work well...just gotta drill on center.

Thats what I broke the second one.... :/ Hole was only slighty smaller than the stud itself too.

[prudence]

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