Exhaust Gasket Questions

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
Thoughtful_One
Posts: 1083
Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2005 7:22 am
Car: 1998 Nissan 240SX SE
2000 Honda Insight

Post

What head>exhaust manifold are you guys running? I have a leak somewhere, and I plan to over-haul everything, but I can't decide on which one to get.

My choices are:- crushable copper- Nissan 3-layer- Nissan 7-layer (from S15)

Also, what other things shoud I do while I'll already be changing the head>manifold, manifold>turbo, elbow>down-pipe, and down-pipe to cat gaskets? The turbo to elbow gasket is in good shape.


User avatar
9240sx
Posts: 2676
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2003 4:06 am
Car: What i believe to be the cleanest s13 in the world.

SR20DET + RS*R-Apexi-Nismo-Trust-HKS= 100% pure love
Location: New Mexico

Post

Im using the OEM S15 gasket..It seals the best and can be reused a few times..

jcquick
Posts: 67
Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 2:37 pm
Car: 95 Nissan 240SX w/ S13 SR20DET

Post

I prefer the Mr. Gasket Copper Exhaust Gasket (part #7215). To insure there is no exhaust leaks, I add Wurth's Exhaust Paste and its good up 1500Fdeg. The stock turbo inlet gasket work great, especially if you add some copper exhaust spray, you can find this part at The Nismo Shop. Ive gone through a couple of gaskets and this seems to work well. Just remember to check you nuts and bolts every once and a while.

Emperor_Tha
Posts: 834
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 12:56 pm

Post

3 layer gasket is fine. Highly recommend replace the inlet turbo gasket ( between the manifold and turbo) also get ss line. One of the coolant line is a b**** to get off

codyace
Posts: 1195
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2005 7:22 am
Car: S14 w/redtop
Contact:

Post

Goto your Nissan dealer

Order an exhaust manifold gasket for a 2000/2001 Nissan Sentra SE-R with the 2.0 (sr20de)

It's multi layer metal, and should cost under 20 bucks

14036-7J500

Thoughtful_One
Posts: 1083
Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2005 7:22 am
Car: 1998 Nissan 240SX SE
2000 Honda Insight

Post

codyace wrote:Goto your Nissan dealer

Order an exhaust manifold gasket for a 2000/2001 Nissan Sentra SE-R with the 2.0 (sr20de)

It's multi layer metal, and should cost under 20 bucks

14036-7J500
Are you absolutely positive it fits the SR-T?

User avatar
jr_ss
Posts: 1681
Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2005 8:03 am
Car: 95' S14

Post

The manifolds are different, but the head ports are the same, so it should work. If you have a problem with your exhaust mani leaking, you need to take it to a machine shop and have them plane the head flange...

codyace
Posts: 1195
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2005 7:22 am
Car: S14 w/redtop
Contact:

Post

Thoughtful_One wrote:
Are you absolutely positive it fits the SR-T?
I wouldn't suggest it if it didn't work

I've been on the same one for 2 years now, and it's still reusable...I know countless others with it too.

Poo on that Jay-dee-EM 40 dollar crap, and use good USDM stuff :D

Thoughtful_One
Posts: 1083
Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2005 7:22 am
Car: 1998 Nissan 240SX SE
2000 Honda Insight

Post

I called up my local Nissan dealer for prices and he said $22 plus tax.

Thought I was going to go for it until I found a better deal. $30 shipped for a brand new S15 gasket, so I jumped on it.


codyace
Posts: 1195
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2005 7:22 am
Car: S14 w/redtop
Contact:

Post

Thoughtful_One wrote:I called up my local Nissan dealer for prices and he said $22 plus tax.

Thought I was going to go for it until I found a better deal. $30 shipped for a brand new S15 gasket, so I jumped on it.
It's the same exact part lol, not much of a deal.

Thoughtful_One
Posts: 1083
Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2005 7:22 am
Car: 1998 Nissan 240SX SE
2000 Honda Insight

Post

Purchased the exhaust gasket, turbo inlet, outlet, oil filter, and upper radiator hose for the price of two regular priced S15 gaskets, minus shipping.


Thoughtful_One
Posts: 1083
Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2005 7:22 am
Car: 1998 Nissan 240SX SE
2000 Honda Insight

Post

Also, I want to lock-washer every part of the exhaust so nothing will back out.

Would a standard split-lock heavy duty lock washer be fine?

I was looking at some pictures of a turbo elbow installed, and it was pretty close to the steering column. Do I need to remove the elbow or column before I pull the turbo? I want to pull the manifold, turbo and elbow as one unit...

User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

I've successfully pulled out turbos and manifolds with the elbow still attached before. It's infinitely easier without the elbow attached. The elbow tends to get jammed in weird angles and the lip of the flange catches the steering column. However, pulling the elbow with everything still in the car irritates me as well. Nissan engineers should be shot for designing some of those bolts.

CoupedUp
Posts: 495
Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 3:25 pm
Car: 1993 Coupe
Contact:

Post

Hijacker wrote:I've successfully pulled out turbos and manifolds with the elbow still attached before. It's infinitely easier without the elbow attached. The elbow tends to get jammed in weird angles and the lip of the flange catches the steering column. However, pulling the elbow with everything still in the car irritates me as well. Nissan engineers should be shot for designing some of those bolts.
Remember that the majority of SR20DETs that were produced were RHD, meaning no Steering Shaft in the way.

As well as BMCs and Clutch Masters.

I am currently using a 7-Layer.

User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

The steering shaft and brake master aren't in my way when I start removing bolts for the elbow. The rest of the car is. The two bolts on the motor side of the elbow are just a pain to get to. It's because of the casting of the elbow.

CoupedUp
Posts: 495
Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 3:25 pm
Car: 1993 Coupe
Contact:

Post

Hijacker wrote:The steering shaft and brake master aren't in my way when I start removing bolts for the elbow. The rest of the car is. The two bolts on the motor side of the elbow are just a pain to get to. It's because of the casting of the elbow.
I guess I was directing the comment at the removing the assembly all at once.

codyace
Posts: 1195
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2005 7:22 am
Car: S14 w/redtop
Contact:

Post

I can say that I have never ever taken an elbow off a turbo in car.

I find it uber easy to simply jack the car up, take the 3 bolts off the downpipe, and take the manifold and turbo assembly off as one unit.

Thoughtful_One
Posts: 1083
Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2005 7:22 am
Car: 1998 Nissan 240SX SE
2000 Honda Insight

Post

Seems like the way to go.

Looks like I'll be seeing how hard it is when I finally have spring break in one week.

I just need to buy the 3-bolt downpipe gasket, and the two 3" cat gaskets and i should be set.


Return to “SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)”