ever seen a timing belt do this?

[robbie2883]

so, not sure why or what as i've never seen a belt and pulley do this. long story short someone else put the timing belt on the motor and i went to pull it all apart and double check it all today. now keep in mind this motor has maybe 2-3000 miles on it total since it was rebuilt. first things first, they put the crank timing gear on backwards, so there was no way to know for sure the crank was lined up properly. although it was on the 9th tooth which is where the marked tooth is as well. flipped it around and that's fixed. supposedly the belt, spring, idler and tensioner are all new. while the pulley's look like they could be new, the spring is deff not new. now for the fun part, the belt looks BAD on the outside but the teeth look good, and the idler pulley has some of the blue off the belt one it's surface...it's hardened on there like it was cooked on. both pulleys have grooves i can feel with my fingernail and the tensioner has a couple specs of metal shavings. there are absolutely no other signs of metal shavings anywhere....not in the oil or anywhere else around the motor other then just the tensioner pulley. the one other thing i did notice is he put the conical washer on backwards on the tensioner pulley, but could that have really caused the damage? maybe the pulley could wobble b/c the washer was backwards?

needless to say i am going to just buy all new parts even though i was NOT wanting to spend that money. just sharing to see if anyone had any insight as to how this could have happened? the coating on the idler pulley stumps me the most since it's only on that pulley.

[zmannz]

Fake Greddy Belt? I got a fake a couple years ago and it snapped the first time the car got started, and had flaky kind of paint on it that probably would have done that.

[gawdzilla]

that's basically what my greddy belt looked like after a few thousand miles. it's normal. also, when you buy the tensioner (oem at least), it doesn't come with a new spring. you re-use the spring typically. the spring doesn't see any wear really as it's only used to provide tension for the belt before you tighten down the tensioner bolt. it's not like it is stretching and compressing it's entire life.

if you want to save money buying new though, buy a new oem timing belt. about $75 cheaper than the aftermarket ones and they're fine

[RustspecS13]

I don't know, my greddy belt was a year old before I even started my rb20. I bought the swap from a guy and it had all the maintenance done and he never started it.

My belt looked perfect even though it had been on the engine for over a year already and I put 3K miles on it and it looked almost as new as when I put the engine in.

My idler didn't have as much blue on it as yours, but it did have some, but the tensioner had the same amount. And it was more just small spots of dirt buildup more then belt-wide strips of blue.

Maybe you did get a fake, but I didn't know there were people making fake timing belts.

~Alex

[danman04x]

Belt was on too tight..thats why the coloring rubbed on to the idler.

[robbie2883]

if the belt was too tight wouldn't it have worn on both pulleys?

i'm not trying to doubt anyone's assessment...just trying to understand

[Kansei240sx]

WAYYYY to tight.

Replace those pulleys, tensioner stud, idler pulley and belt with one from Power enterprise.

[eh?]

Yep my belt did that and wasn't tight at all. I used it like that for 4 years. Definitely replace the pulleys and the bolt & stud.

[robbie2883]

Replace those pulleys, tensioner stud, idler pulley and belt with one from Power enterprise.

i though i heard somewhere gates racing made their belt? can anyone confirm?

anyone know a good easy source to get the stud and bolt from?
Modified by robbie2883 at 1:56 PM 10/18/2009

[USMCgetsome]

gates does make it but in canada for some reason. Look it up to confirm.

[eh?]

Honestly, if you don't have upgraded springs, crazy rpm limit an OEM belt will be fine. The Stud P/N is 13073-v5001 and I replaced the pulley bolt with the same p/n stud.

[robbie2883]

Honestly, if you don't have upgraded springs, crazy rpm limit an OEM belt will be fine. The Stud P/N is 13073-v5001 and I replaced the pulley bolt with the same p/n stud.

yeah...i was jsut gonna get the pitt works belt and kit...just wanted to replace the stuff and bolt as u guys suggested. thanks alot for the part number. so you just put studs in both instead of a stud and a bolt?

[eh?]

Yes I just used the studs on both.I wasn't able to use the washer on the idler pulley so I used loctite and Tq'd the nut to spec. Been fine for 2k miles now.

[robbie2883]

Yes I just used the studs on both.I wasn't able to use the washer on the idler pulley so I used loctite and Tq'd the nut to spec. Been fine for 2k miles now.

i found the part number for the proper bolt....but can't find anywhere to get it over here so looks like i'll be doing what you did. is there a reason you couldn't use the washer? stud too short or something?

[HxC_Nismo]

i used a power enterprise timing belt and when i took my covers off to powder coat em my belt didnt look anything like that.

[eh?]

i found the part number for the proper bolt....but can't find anywhere to get it over here so looks like i'll be doing what you did. is there a reason you couldn't use the washer? stud too short or something?

The stud a little bit too short.

[robbie2883]

The stud a little bit too short.

were you still able to get the nut on all the way? all threads engaged?

[eh?]

Yes it engaged all the way.

[FAST-DATSUN]

Belt was on too tight..thats why the coloring rubbed on to the idler.

Way to tight!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[rb25det250sx]

wow...thats what my belt looks like..havent taken the cover off to look at the pullys tho. hope its not that bad.

[RustspecS13]

So whats the right way to set a greddy timing belt? Mine sounded like a super charger with it set the OEM way and I just backed it off untill it didn't do that, and was still tight.

~Alex

[robbie2883]

every timing belt i've ever done. you just tq the idler down to spec. then just finger tighten the tensioner stud till it's snug.....turn the crank over a few times to let the tensioner come to rest and self tighten. then hold the tensioner without letting it get any tighter and tq the nut. when first put on they will be a little louder and whine....once the belt breaks in after 1000 miles or so it'll quiet up

[RustspecS13]

Hmm sounds like it would be loose, and that it doesn't work if your belt looks like that.

~Alex

[300Plus]

off topic: You are from the 850? Not many RB guys around "these parts" I'm from Tally

[robbie2883]

thanks to sean at z1 motorsports i got all my timing stuf ordered. gonna just replace it all. new idler, tensioner, spring, front and back crank timing gear plates and a power enterprise timing belt. ordered 2 new studs from courtesy and will jsut use a stud on the idler as well for now till the bolt comes off backorder. should have her back together and purring next week with a bunch of other stuff added to the mix and a little cleanup! oil cooler and filter relocation kit, radiator swirlpot and new fuel rail and injectors!

[robbie2883]

off topic: You are from the 850? Not many RB guys around "these parts" I'm from Tally

haha! yes sir...850 here! right outside of fort walton beach

[Fibre guy]

I'm posting a bit late but my greddy timing belt was loose and I had a little bit of blue on the pulley. When the cover was off and you revved it up you could see it vibrate like crazy. In fact it was loose enough to skip 1 on tooth on every gear (both cams and crank), idled like a sun dried poo.I noticed that when doing the proper tightening procedure, if you let go of the tension on the crank after you turn it over a few times to let the belt "self adjust" the belt gets some extra slack.Also, I've read somewhere that when the belt is tightened right, it shouldn't be able to twist more than 50* or less than 25*. I don't know if this is fact though. Before I tightened my belt could twist my belt almost 90*!