Evaluate My Hard Break In Procedure

The Nissan 300ZX (Z32) general community discussion forum
ThisIsSparTTa
Posts: 738
Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:02 pm
Car: 91 300ZX TT 2+0

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First things first.
Step 1) OMG NOOB SEARCH - I have done a good bit of searching internally and through Google. I know I've seen a couple of good explanations from some of the trusty guys on here like 300ZXZTTMan, but I simply can't find them. Feel free to reference me to old threads.
Step 2) Soft break-ins only! I can respect your opinion, but I've read a good bit on this, and have seen plenty of people be successful with it. This is going to be a hard break-in, sorry.

Due to time constraints, I need my newly rebuilt engine to be ready to go this Sunday, 6/23. I'm going to be ready to crank on Wednesday or Thursday assuming things go smoothly.

Other relevant info: 91 TT, newly rebuilt shortblock, Greddy Spec B Profec II EBC, Stock Turbos, 740CC Injectors, SZ Base Tune, Single Pop Charger

It would be helpful to me if you comment based on step number so we're clear

Pre-Crank
1) Remove plugs and fuel pump fuse, and turn engine over for a few seconds to prime. Btw, I'll be running 5W30 Conventional.
Warm-Up
2) Most people say 20-30 minutes - Spend this time searching for leaks, test timing, running Consult diagnostics
3) Some people say to hold engine at ~2k, some say idle. I'm thinking of idling.
4) Some say cool-off and oil change here, some say start the rest of the break-in. I'm thinking of starting rest of break in.
Drive on Street - Heart of hard break-in
5) Try to set EBC to 0 Boost. Per my understanding, stock wastegates open at 5PSI though. If I can't set to 0PSI, use 5a.
5a) Connect lighter powered tire pump to lines going to wastegate. With output blocked, it can produce up to 40PSI. Hopefully this permanently opens up the wastegates.
6) Drive gently over to wide-open toll road about 2 miles from my house. This toll road has a speed limit of 75, has no cops anyways, and has VERY little traffic, especially in the evenings. It's also 3-4 lanes wide, so I can be out of other people's ways.
7) Don't go WOT. Do these runs for about 40 miles
7a) Use steady acceleration to run through RPM ranges in 2nd-5th.
7b) After each pull, let engine decelerate on its own. First 5-7 pulls there will be a good bit of smoke here. After smoke starts to subside, use a downshift for harder engine braking.
8) Drive home, park, let engine cool down, change oil and filter. Check all fluids, recheck for leaks, etc.
City Driving
9) Use as my DD for the next couple of days to work and to run errands. Vary speeds constantly, use different gears, try to engine brake when posssible. Still no WOT.
10) Possibly begin to ease in boost here, starting with minimum of EBC, which I think will be 5PSI. Listen for knock, don't be silly
Road Trip
11) Saturday I'm going to take a road trip into the nothingness of Texas. Going to try some tricks like constantly doing light accelerations and decelerations. Vary speed often. Stop a few times to let engine cool and heat cycle some. Put on 200-300 miles.
12) Progressively up boost, hopefully getting near 14PSI that I can support on stock turbos and my mods. I was running 14PSI with boost jets previously.
13) Oil and Filter Change
Sunday and Beyond
14) Game time, may keep boost down a couple of PSI to be safer. Going to go at it fairly hard.
15) Change oil and filter after another 500 miles. Wait another 1-2k miles and change again. Around 3k total miles switch back to synthetic.

One of many sources:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


User avatar
300ZXttZMAN
Posts: 6800
Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2010 4:07 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX TT 5spd pearl white

DD: 2008 Nissan Frontier NISMO pkg 4x4 Crew Cab
Location: Sulphur, LA 70665
Contact:

Post

ThisIsSparTTa wrote:First things first.
Step 1) OMG NOOB SEARCH - I have done a good bit of searching internally and through Google. I know I've seen a couple of good explanations from some of the trusty guys on here like 300ZXZTTMan, but I simply can't find them. Feel free to reference me to old threads.
Step 2) Soft break-ins only! I can respect your opinion, but I've read a good bit on this, and have seen plenty of people be successful with it. This is going to be a hard break-in, sorry.

Due to time constraints, I need my newly rebuilt engine to be ready to go this Sunday, 6/23. I'm going to be ready to crank on Wednesday or Thursday assuming things go smoothly.

Other relevant info: 91 TT, newly rebuilt shortblock, Greddy Spec B Profec II EBC, Stock Turbos, 740CC Injectors, SZ Base Tune, Single Pop Charger

It would be helpful to me if you comment based on step number so we're clear

Pre-Crank
1) Remove plugs and fuel pump fuse, and turn engine over for a few seconds to prime. Btw, I'll be running 5W30 Conventional.
I kept my plugs in and I unplugged cas.
Warm-Up
2) Most people say 20-30 minutes - Spend this time searching for leaks, test timing, running Consult diagnostics
This is what I did, worked well for me. I let it run a complete heat cycle.
3) Some people say to hold engine at ~2k, some say idle. I'm thinking of idling.
I let mine idle
4) Some say cool-off and oil change here, some say start the rest of the break-in. I'm thinking of starting rest of break in.
I changed the oil after IIRC. I also did the first start up on 0-20 mobile1
Drive on Street - Heart of hard break-in I'm confused here... I did a soft break in. But I did the same break in you have listed here... What you have typed up here is considered a soft break in IMHO.
5) Try to set EBC to 0 Boost. Per my understanding, stock wastegates open at 5PSI though. If I can't set to 0PSI, use 5a.
You won't be able to limit the boost by your boost controller because the lowest it will go is the wastegate spring.
5a) Connect lighter powered tire pump to lines going to wastegate. With output blocked, it can produce up to 40PSI. Hopefully this permanently opens up the wastegates.
You are thinking to much about it, you don't need to worry about all that just stay out of boost by accelerating slowly. What I did was start my break in period on the street at 10pm on a Wednesday night, the streets were pretty empty and it allowed me to rev up to around 5k very slowly (slow enough to not build boost) then let off in first gear and let the engine see alot of vacuum as it road the gear back down, I did this probably 50 times in 1st and 2nd gear. Even after I finished sometimes when I was just driving (still in break in) I would do it while coming up to a traffic light.
6) Drive gently over to wide-open toll road about 2 miles from my house. This toll road has a speed limit of 75, has no cops anyways, and has VERY little traffic, especially in the evenings. It's also 3-4 lanes wide, so I can be out of other people's ways.
7) Don't go WOT. Do these runs for about 40 miles
7a) Use steady acceleration to run through RPM ranges in 2nd-5th.
7b) After each pull, let engine decelerate on its own. First 5-7 pulls there will be a good bit of smoke here. After smoke starts to subside, use a downshift for harder engine braking.
8) Drive home, park, let engine cool down, change oil and filter. Check all fluids, recheck for leaks, etc.
City Driving
9) Use as my DD for the next couple of days to work and to run errands. Vary speeds constantly, use different gears, try to engine brake when posssible. Still no WOT.
10) Possibly begin to ease in boost here, starting with minimum of EBC, which I think will be 5PSI. Listen for knock, don't be silly
Road Trip
11) Saturday I'm going to take a road trip into the nothingness of Texas. Going to try some tricks like constantly doing light accelerations and decelerations. Vary speed often. Stop a few times to let engine cool and heat cycle some. Put on 200-300 miles.
12) Progressively up boost, hopefully getting near 14PSI that I can support on stock turbos and my mods. I was running 14PSI with boost jets previously.
13) Oil and Filter Change
IMHO its a horrible idea to go on a road trip with the car. Gain confidence, complete the break in period, then start planning trips.
Sunday and Beyond
14) Game time, may keep boost down a couple of PSI to be safer. Going to go at it fairly hard.
15) Change oil and filter after another 500 miles. Wait another 1-2k miles and change again. Around 3k total miles switch back to synthetic.

Also the whole time you are driving you need to vary the throttle in gear, try not to stay at a constant RPM
One of many sources:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

ThisIsSparTTa
Posts: 738
Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:02 pm
Car: 91 300ZX TT 2+0

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Thanks Mark! I'll probably try to keep to fairly major roads and highways so I don't get stranded. I just want to get some extra time and miles in on the engine before pushing her harder on Sunday. Also, for all runs, I will have a full set of tools with me and will be checking the status of things frequently.

User avatar
300ZXttZMAN
Posts: 6800
Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2010 4:07 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX TT 5spd pearl white

DD: 2008 Nissan Frontier NISMO pkg 4x4 Crew Cab
Location: Sulphur, LA 70665
Contact:

Post

ThisIsSparTTa wrote:Thanks Mark! I'll probably try to keep to fairly major roads and highways so I don't get stranded. I just want to get some extra time and miles in on the engine before pushing her harder on Sunday. Also, for all runs, I will have a full set of tools with me and will be checking the status of things frequently.
No prob man!

Note this: Regardless of doing an aggressive or a mild break in it is imperative to let the engine see loads of vacuum. So while driving rev to the top of 1st or 2nd gear (5k-6k) and instead of shifting just let go of the gas pedal and ride the gear all the way back down... It helps the rings seat.

Also it doesn't hurt to have a fire extinguisher on start up and during the break in period and hell even for when you are just driving the car simply because you never know what could happen. Imagine just having to watch your car burn to the ground because you didn't have a way to put the fire out.

I keep an extinguisher in my car. You can find nice small fire extinguishers at boat stores like West marine, Overtons, Bass Pro Shop and maybe even Walmart ect.

:bigthumb:

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DCaff300ZX
Posts: 4202
Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
Car: .
1993 CRP TT- Modified
Location: Tacoma, Washington

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I agree with Mark in everything he said, especially the road trip and changing the oil after the initial start and idle.
The ring seating he mentions later is also imperative and his suggestions are sound, be sure to do that and in general attempt to keep your ring forces equal between acceleration and deceleration.
I personally would not run the engine hard on your Sunday either- I understand your posted plans, but could not pass up saying that anyway.
Good Luck!


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