Engine Won't Start - Clutch Related? +likely overheating related

Website · Post by **Dorifto!RPS13** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 6:20 pm

I have a really wierd problem, I have a 1993 240SX SE Hatchback (5-Speed) with a stock KA24DE (For the most par, K&N drop-in flat filter and NGK spark plugs) and some $300 performance clutch the last guy had put in on accident (sorta funny, he asked for a stock one and they put this one in instead of someone elses car and he figured he'd just take it).

Anyways, I overheated the car. Really bad, it was my fault for the most part. My "meter" fuse goes out periodically. I fixed it by taking out the alarm (it used to blow instantly when starting the car) but now it just blows every once in a while. Anywho it blew and I did a run in the mountains and on the uphill near the end the RPM's just start to go down, I downshift to 3rd, then 2nd, then 1st and they're still going down. I noticed the smoke from the engine (guages are out so I didn't see the heat was high. Anywho I pulled over, and my engine was steaming, my friend touched the valve cover by accident and now has an inch diameter 3rd degree burn on his finger. It took 2 hours to cool down to even half and the car wouldn't start (I found out my water pump was completely shot so there was zero coolant in the engine).

Anyways it won't start, but I could do that clutch drop or whatever down the hill (get it rolling fast with the shifter in 2nd and start it without the clutch. It started but as soon as I put the clutch in, it completely dies, the RPMs go down as fast as they would if you killed the engine and it stalls out. Really wierd, and since you need the clutch to start the car I'm guessing it has something to do with the clutch? The car runs when I used that technique, I can gas it and it accelerates, I can hear the exhaust, everything sounds pretty normal.

Please help. Key notes are cannot use clutch, water pump is shot (soon to replace), runs fine if the clutch is not touched. Checked: Spark is ok, fuel is ok, there is compression but I haven't done a test (did it the ghetto way), engine sounds like it's turning over, can hear the fuel pump, distributor is working, everythings going into the cylinders and their moving so what's up? Timing is at 20 degrees before TDC just like Chilton's and the hood key says, and I tried it at TDC also and didn't help.

Post by **i2ice4m3** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 6:50 pm

not to be an a$$ but to take your car out on a run with those problems is a pretty negligent thing to do. If that's any indication of your judgement, I would hand it over to a mechanic or pay someone to work on the car for you.

Website · Post by **Dorifto!RPS13** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 7:22 pm

No the coolant leak wasn't apparent before. The meter fuse was the only apparent problem, which doesn't effect engine performance.

I admit that it was neglegent to take it on a run without any indication of my engine heat, but I had made the same run times before without even getting it to half the gauge, and this time I had taken tons of stuff out of my trunk so it was lighter too. If it weren't for the serious coolant leak I would have been fine. Should have played it safe, but you have to admit it's pretty bad luck to have my coolant spring a leak the one time I get lazy and don't replace my meter fuse.

Post by **StuntingShaggy** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 2:39 pm

Yeah mine overheated once pretty bad, too. I was coming home on the freeway and I was just driving dosing off and I glance at my temp gauge and its at 3/4 so I pulled off the freeway and looked under the car. Turns out the seal on these water pumps aren't too good. It was leaking a few drops a second so apparently it leaked out over about 3 days. I didn't do anything for about 3 weeks until it overheated again and when I looked under this time it was pouring out like a hose. So I went out and bought a new water pump for $40.00 and the problem was fixed. I recommend you fix that temperature gauge just in case something like this happens again