Engine swap time! Vq35, check my pics and Q

[CanuckQx4]

Hey guys, if you missed my thread about my meltdown, long story short a stuck closed water control valve caused domino effect and my motor to overheat and the heads to literally split, assuming the block may be junk aswell so I am going to simply put in a used "jdm" low mileage engine. At first I was going to let a shop do it, as I have never done a RWD swap before (many fwd's) and the trans and just size of the engine kinda scared me. Luckily for me my 2001 is only a 2wd, so no transfer case/front axles etc.

After starring at it for many hours and over many beers, I decided I am going to try and swap the engine myself, I have a few questions which may seem silly though but would completely change the way I pull the engine. I have already stripped the engine from the top, complete engine harness, a/c compressor and lines, rad blah blah are all out from the top. Here is how it sits



Today I will reposition the truck better in the garage and attack it from the bottom for the next few days, as the exhaust manifolds, 02 sensors and transmission are going to probably be a HUGE pain.

My question really is how to I actually pull the engine away from the trans and out of the car. I understand I will need to take the trans to engine bolts out, aswell the fsm says after pulling the starter I will have access through the starter hole to undo torque convertor bolts (i think?) But I am unsure if I need to actually take the trans out of the car? Or can I leave it connected to its mount / driveshaft and just slide the engine forward and away from it?

I have never seen a tq convertor before, so Im unsure if it stays sitting on the engine or on the trans? Im assuming it stays on the trans on some sort of input shaft. See where Im a little lost here guys? If the trans needs to be completely removed from the vehicle that etc... Hopefully someone has some experience and tips they can lend me, because I am way over my head so far but learning as I go. I was also planning on undo'ing the exhaust from the manifold and leaving the manifolds attached to the engine as those bolts look impossible to reach in this chassis, looks like it will fit, disagree?

Any questions feel free to ask, I could use all the help I can get and if you guys dont mind I will post pics and questions along the way!! Cheers

[Leo1998]

No need to remove the transmission, just remove all the bolts connecting the engine to transmission, the torque converter will stay on the shaft. Check clearance you may not need to remove exhaust manifolds just unbolt from exhaust. When you use the cherry picker, make sure the legs are all the way extended, and have some help too. I think you have to remove the starter to get to a bolt behind it.

Also from the picture it looks like you are almost ready to pull it.

[Leo1998]

Did you get an engine stand? I would try to leave as much on the engine as possible. I would put the new engine on the stand and pull the one out and set it on blocks or another engine stand, then swap everything. I never done a Nissan engine swap only Ford's, but i like to learn. Here's a cool video to give you an idea, i know it's not for your year or engine, but you can see how an engine looks removed. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDQGM032ptc

[CanuckQx4]

It is indeed almost ready to pull, just exhaust, starter and unhook the transmission. Which probably wont be an easy feat but Im about to go see what I can do from below

I do already have an engine stand, and I found the place I will be buying the new engine from, just have to set a date on going to see there stock and picking one that looks good.

Im really most concerned with the trans though, and seperating the engine from it with the cherry picker hooked up nice and smooth

[Chuck Tribolet]

Do you have the bolts to attach the engine to the engine stand? That required some creativity when I rebuilt the L16 in my
'70 pickup, which carried over to the L24 in my 240-Z. Turns out head bolts, with a few washers under the head of the bolt,
worked well. I was able to get some used ones from a friendly Nissan engine shop for free.

Dunno what your engine will take.

Chuck

[CanuckQx4]

How far do you guys think the engine will have to slide forward before it will be off of the transmission and be able to go upwards.

While I was just under the car, I noticed there is a zig zag of hardlines for the power steering right infront of the oil pan between the engine and front lower subframe. It looks like I could only move the engine forward about 2" before the bottom of the engine smacked the lines into the subframe....

pics of that later, I came back inside because the crank position sensor clip wont unclip from the sensor, every clip so far has been a breeze, but this plug is different looking, and the FSM says to be super fvcking cautious with it so I need to unplug it to remove the last of the engine harness

[CanuckQx4]

I have more room to pull forward then I thought, those hardlines were not actually power steering lines, they were just looped in the that area, I followed them better and they are actually just hardlines from the transmission leading to the radiator to the built in cooler, so I will be able to remove them.

I worked on the exhaust manifolds for much to long tonight, what a ridiculous space. I managed to remove both rear o2 sensors and rear resonators, I was sure the resonator to catalytic studs were going to snap but all 6 came free with a bar. That gave me access to the catalytic covertors, and I noticed to remove those you have to remove the catalytic shields, TWO OF THEM WRAPPED AROUND EACH CAT!! which are held on by the smallest bolts in the tightest spaces, but they must be removed as they cover the 6 bolts for each cat. I got all but 2 bolts off but they are in crazy spots I dunno if I can get em, had to quit for the night, its time to drain the trans and I didnt have a container big enough, I'll get on it tomorrow

[CanuckQx4]

I got some done today, catalytic shields off, both catalytic's off, transmission dipstick tube off (what a PITA) and removed the torque convertor bolts from the starter hole. I managed to pull 6 of 8 of the engine to transmission bolts, 2 are impossible to reach, you cant even see them from underneath. I think you could get them if you rigged up literally 5 feet of extensions and went over the trans blind

but instead, I am going to do it wrecking ball style lol, from the top there is a crossover tube about 2" aluminum round that connects the back of the heads to eachother and it blocks access to both remaining bolts, I wasted an hour trying to take that crossover tube off, but realized its 4 mounting bolts are studs and there isnt enough room to get the pipe out before it hits the firewall.

So Im going to sawzall it out, since it and the engine arent needed, just need to pickup a new blade tomorrow, get the 2 bolts below it out, and shes only held in by the motor mounts!!!

Im nervous about the torque convertor now though, because the transmission was rebuilt less than 1000 miles ago I dont fear any rust, but I really dont want to break anything

[CanuckQx4]

Well as I said I couldnt get the crossover tube out and it was hindering the removal of the last 2 transmission bolts, so heres how one looks after meeting the sawzall



Parts pile is getting big! I try to be organized and bag and tag every bolt for the parts, to make install easier.



How she sits now



I have a few questions though if anyone has insight. There is this plate here, it was sandwiched between the starter and the engine, it is about 1/16" thick, but has no threaded holes and nothing was attached to it. Im curious its purpose



Also I removed the bolts from the "flywheel" after removing the starter to gain access, using the crank pulley to spin the motor to gain access to all the bolts, there was only 4 bolts though, and they are only m10 and 12mm deep, to me there should be more bolts? Am I missing something? These bolt 2 "flywheels" together right? I spun the crank around many time and it appears there are only four.. am I missing something??

As far as I can tell I am ready to pull the motor, just need to source a truck to transport an engine from 50 miles away, and buy/rent and engine hoist.

Any more insight on the actual seperating of the trans and motor would be greatly appreciated!

[Chuck Tribolet]

Replace the crossover tube gaskets on the new motor. They have been a weak point.

Chuck

[Leo1998]

It's a spacer that is much bigger than that, when you get the engine separated from the transmission you'll see the rest of it.

[CanuckQx4]

The new engine will definetely be getting some attention before install, I plan on changing every rubber hose, crossover gaskets, rear water valve, thermostat, power valve screws, intake manifold gaskets (since I will be in there loctiting power valve screws) and the valve cover gaskets, oil cooler o-ring.

I found an engine hoist only 40 min away for a great price so Im going to find a truck and go get that

[CanuckQx4]

Well I got the new engine today, and the hoist. Very pleased with how clean the engine looks. Really kicking myself in the a** for cutting the crossover pipe off my original engine though, aparently these JDM engines have the tube going on the opposite side.

I held my cut pipe up behind the JDM engine and it looks like it would have fit to. Notice in this pic how the pipe tucks nder the left valve cover, mine went behind the right



Pretty clean, I like how they used a seatbelt to lift the engine, saved me having to buy a chain tonight atleast



Only other difference I noticed was the oil cooler location, where my car has the oil cooler this car just has a sensor. I was in my good clothes and couldnt crawl under my truck to check, but Im hoping my parts will bolt over.



Im curious what you guys think I should do with the crossover pipe, should I leave it as is, the only thing I see it affecting is the upper radiator hose, it is now on the drivers side just above the lower hose, getting a hose to fit that would be no problem, but maybe Im missing something that it would interfere with? There the same size chassis and such right?? I'll have to take a better look. I wouldnt mind leaving the pipe as it is, as a new one from Nissan would probably be $200 (guessing) and I cant pull one from a junkyard car.

Wife is making me take her to the movies for some stupid reason and then I will get dirty and try and pull my blown engine out of my car and get it on a stand side by side with this engine and check the differences more closely.

*just had a thought* I could get my pipe welded back together that I cut off, but its aluminum and the guy would prob charge just asmuch as a new piece..... just an idea

[Leo1998]

Check the flywheels to see if they both match.

Inspect the motor mounts too, maybe replace the components on the new engine of the things that would be a b**** to get to if you have to replace them in the vehicle, PCV? Spark plugs? Oil pan gasket? stuff that can be a preventive maintenance.

BTW...How many miles on the engine?

[CanuckQx4]

Oh ya shes getting the full work over when I get it on the stand, Im just a little undecided on what to do with the crossover tube. I think it will work and clear everything as is and I could just run a different upper radiator hose, but I will have to stare at it a while.

I wonder why it is on the opposite side over in jdm land

[Leo1998]

Check this link out...you can buy the crossover cooling kit for $199 and look what all you get! So...you should be able to get yours welded or buy a new one cheaper than the $199 kit

http://my350z.com/forum/engine/379631-v ... ckage.html

Has pictures of vq35de with a crossover tube like the one you cut...Check out the twin turbos!!!

http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35/pr ... ts_id=3011

You can see too how they mounted the engine on the stand.

[Slumpert]

Right hand drive means the heater core has to be on the other side hench coolant piping is flipped.

[Leo1998]

What year is the engine and what did it come out of?
I think if you can make it work without messing with it go for it!

[CanuckQx4]

VIN shows it came out of a 2002

I was just staring at it and realized the JDM crossover pipe is missing one of the sensors bungs. I suppose I could tap it if I really wanted to being as the material is very thick and I am taking the pipe off anyways to change the gaskets on it..... have to think about it. I appreciate the link you posted, I scoured ebay and found a crossover for only $50, but would take over a week to get to me

Wife didnt like that I spent $1600 all in today, I told her 1200 when I left , freaking web banking giving me away

I'll have to pull the engine tomorrow, I took my honda engine off the stand to make room so I can have both engines side by side to really compare them and make a good "to buy" list before installing it

[Leo1998]

Right hand drive means the heater core has to be on the other side hench coolant piping is flipped.

That makes total sense Slumpert! forgot Canadians drive on the opposite side than the Americans, so yeah the heater core would be in the way and Canuck is going to have to repair or replace his. Otherwise the engine is not going in without a fight.

[Leo1998]

VIN shows it came out of a 2002

I was just staring at it and realized the JDM crossover pipe is missing one of the sensors bungs. I suppose I could tap it if I really wanted to being as the material is very thick and I am taking the pipe off anyways to change the gaskets on it..... have to think about it. I appreciate the link you posted, I scoured ebay and found a crossover for only $50, but would take over a week to get to me

Wife didnt like that I spent $1600 all in today, I told her 1200 when I left , freaking web banking giving me away

I'll have to pull the engine tomorrow, I took my honda engine off the stand to make room so I can have both engines side by side to really compare them and make a good "to buy" list before installing it

You could order it and work on the other things you want to get done and by the time it arrives you will be ready.

[CanuckQx4]

Ya I came to that realization. I noticed the opposite side crossover would never clear my firewall, so I ordered a used crossover pipe off ebay for $44 shipped, good deal I think.

Getting the flywheel off the new engine was a chore, needed it to come off so I could mount my cradle for the engine stand. I was going to use the factory bolts that hold the trans to the engine to mount the new engine to my engine stand, but they just arent long enough for comfort, gotta pick those up in the morning when I return the rental truck. M12 X 1.75 for anyone searching in the future

[Leo1998]

Ok your QX4 is LHD and you are putting in a JDM engine that came out of a RHD.

Is the ECU also on the opposite side? Will your wiring harness reach it? What about the firewall sides where the wheel wells are, they are different from RHD vehicles so there maybe other things that need to be flipped before dropping the engine in. The engine block is the same but all the other little things like wires and hoses might have to be moved or extended. Your oil pressure sending unit that is on the opposite side? It looks like the JDM has it on the passenger side where as yours is on the drivers side. Just swap the sensor around and depending on where the wire travels you may need to add a pigtail to make longer.

[Towncivilian]

The oil cooler not being present indicates that the new engine came out of a manual trans. Is there a power valve actuator?

[Tonench]

Hey! Ive been looking all over for someone else who is doing a JDM swap like this.....I am doing the exact same project ... where r u now?? Have you finished?