Hi everyone...I'm sure this has been answered before, and I'm sorry if you guys are tired of the question, but I searched the forum and couldn't find a specific answer as to what information and possible suggestions and/or alternatives I need.

Ok, to begin with, I am posting this for a lazy freind who has a 1995 Nissan 200SX SE-R 5MT. I am a Honda H22A VTEC man, but I am pretty familiar with alot of Nissan terms and technology as alot of my buddies own them.(240's mostly) I am also very mechanically inclined when it comes to automobiles.

The car has 225,000 miles on it, and the transmission has finally lost it's 5th gear completely and also the A/C compressor has locked up....So, instead of spending over $1200 to get all this fixed, (and possibly have another failure after that) we have decided it would be best to just go ahead and swap a new engine in the car and at the same time upgrade to a turbo, or possibly one of the Variable valve and lift timing engines. (I need someone to keep up with me )

The only problem is, the transmission and clutch engagement setup is a cable type. The turbo engine is supposedly a hydraulic setup (according to him).

Now here is my first couple of questions:

How much of a task is it to convert the car over to a hydraulic apparatus? Is there any cutting/fabrication involved in installing the clutch master cylinder and new clutch pedal mechanism (if required)to the firewall and whatnot? How about the hardlines? What car would I need to rob at the junkyard to obtain all the neccessary parts for the hydraulic clutch? A G20?If it is a chore, then would it be recommended to buy another cable transmission and just bolt it up to the turbo/NA engine? I know a stronger aftermarket pressure plate and clutch would be a necessity, but are they available?

Now for some more questions concerning the ECM wiring AND the accessory compatability:

What extra wires and ECM pins are needed for the two engines?

I would think a knock sensor wire would need to be added and possibly the extension of the MAF/MAP? sensor wire, and of course the VVT-L electronics for the NA engine. Anything else?

Does the turbo or VVT-L engine use different fuel injectors than the SR20DE? Low/high impedance; peak and hold/saturated? Of course a larger fuel pump would be installed.

Anything regarding distributor wiring? I don't know if the VVT-L engine uses coil on plug or not?

Also, does the A/C compressor have the same fittings as the B14 high and low pressure lines?

Power steering pump fittings the same? Alternator?

Also, will a sidemount intercooler from a Silvia work and fit on the SER? I really don't want to cut a big hole in his hood for the top mount to breathe.

Will I need to upgrade the CV halfshafts to handle the additional horsepower and torque of either of the engines?

Perhaps these is a write up article somewhere on how to perform this engine swap that would tell me everything I just asked?

Anyways, thank you very much for taking the time to look at this and I know how frustrating repeating questions can be, but like I said, I haven't found anything that answers my questions specifically, nor any suggestions or alternatives.

Thanks again,Mack

Check out the stickies for some info on engines.

Most things are the same, but I'm not completely versed as to what is not. I can tell you that the ECU is wired differently, but there shouldn't be much difference in what wires you need.

However, your friend is wrong about the transmission. SRs never had cable shifters, the linkage is a bar running from the shifter assembly to the transmission. The clutch is pneumatic with a sprung disc.

You could probably make the sidemount work, but you could also simply relocate (which would obviously require some replumbing) the IC to the front (or side), or full on upgrade to an FMIC.

The CVs should be fine unless you plan on doing something major (big turbo upgrade, that sort of thing).

The owner of this site did a swap on a G20 (slightly different chassis, same motor), so I bet he'll stop in with some insight on some of the other stuff.

Welcome to NICO!

Good luck with this project!

I think he was referring to a "CLUTCH CABLE", not cable shift linkage.

Reading over the FAQ about turbos will answer alot of your questions. There are few types of SR20DET motors and other motor you speak of is not VVT-L, it is a NEO V V L. It is variable valve lift and timing.

For the V V L, you will need a ECU tuned by Jim Wolf Technology. You will also need selonoids to control the cam activation. The motor will drop right in and use the stock mounts if you choose not to upgrade. All other options such as A/C, power steering and alternator will be the same for the DE or DET or VE. A/C might be an issue with a DET depending on the turbo setup.

If you read the FAQ questions for Turbo and SR20VE, there is quite a bit of info on the motors.

The axles will work fine as long as the clutch isn't too aggressive. Same goes for the tranny. It is the weakest link, especially 3rd gear. 5th gear pop out was an issue on the early trannys 91-94. But was fixed when the 200 came out. Is he having different issues with 5th gear other than pop out? I would suggest getting another 200sx tranny with lower mileage. Obviously the clutch needs to be upgraded depending on the power level you wish to obtain. There are several companies making a clutch for the transverse SR.

On the DET, you can use the TMIC as a FMIC as well. You can also get the DSM sidemount intercooler, relocate battery to the trunk and mount the side mount where the battery was. Johnnyracecar.com has cheap and effective FMIC's. They fit like a glove as well. In my pic, my FMIC is painted black and is from johnny race car. As far as ECUs go with the DET, you can use the stock ECU with S AFC II or get the ecu remapped by Jim Wolf Technology. Prepare for a wait and about $550 for that route though.

Hope this helps, and if he goes with a DET that H22 won't have a chance, even with him running stock boost.

Thanks guys for the input, we have decided to go with the SR16VE since the 3rd gear on the DET's are weak, plus he has always loved driving my Accord with the H22A because of the response of the engine as well as the VTEC, close gear ratios and 8,000 RPM redline, so this little badass SR16 will be perfect for him.

And RED-DET, I have raced 2 SE-R's (one B13 and one B14[he was running 11 psi]) with SR20DET's and have won by at least a half a car each time. They hang with me until I bang 3rd gear and they start falling behind me .

I put down 204 HP and 176 ft/pds on the dyno, and I weigh 300 pounds more than they did...

The sr16 is a rare choice. But whatever floats his boat.

AS far as beating a sr20det, it must have been one untuned mother. My stock bb put down 220whp and 220ft/lbs at 12lbs. My upgraded system put down what is in my sig. So you tell me who would be in whos rearview everytime.

Goodluck with the swap.