Engine Stand / Rust Valve Cover

[Hogg]

Hey guys, big question and I cant seem to find an answer anywhere even from Nissan, Infiniti, Autovalue whatever...'

To put my VH45DE on an Engine Stand... What bolts do I use? the ones that go into the block what kind are they? diameter etc. WTF!

And I found rust on my 1993 VHs Valve cover... Should I get some from a 1996 and bolt them on? Rust is ugly!

[Mettler]

Pretty sure they're M16 x 1.5 bolts, dunno what length. I actually have some, so didn't have to figure this out.

[Hogg]

Heh, what size is that? Like what Millimetre etc?

[Mettler]

If you ask a fastener store for M16 x 1.5 bolts, you'll get what you need.

M16 = Metric 16mm, the 1.5 = 1.5mm thread pitch.

[Hogg]

hm ahh thankyou, and the valve covers? do you think a set of 96 valve covers would fit on 93 heads?, they sure dont look too different... just one doesnt have this little window thing on the side

[Q45denver]

Cover mating surfaces are machined different since the 94-96 uses rubber gaskets.

[ch187]

im almost certain they are 14mmx1.5 not 16.

[Hogg]

Also another question that just arose, the big pulley assembly on the front, where both banks meet down at the bottom - its connected to the crank...

How do I get that off so I can reach my timing chain guides?

[Hogg]

Anyone have a direct answer for the Mounting bolts and for pulling the Crankshaft Pulley?

[mtcookson]

The easiest way would be to use an impact wrench as its on there pretty tight. You can break it loose manually but you'll need a way to keep the crank from spinning.

[Q45denver]

I think when I did mine, I wedged in a block of wood to keep it from turning and used a breaker bar or long pipe on end of wrench (about 300 ft lbs). Also make sure you use the right puller as it is easy to chip the pulley.

[PopPop]

Trans has an sight screen/opening for cooling purposes and also allows for you to wedge a large screwdriver etc. on the trans/flex-plate/flywheel to prevent from turning while you break balancer bolt 29mm or 30mm lose. That portion most find to be the hardest part of the removal but, keeping the brittle harmonic balancer in one piece will be the next challenge. These units are balanced to match your specific engine so when you start chipping pieces off what will this do to it's calibration. PB spray on the back side/ key areas help to break the seal especially if it has never been removed before. Just take care with the placement of your JAWS of LIFE and don't even think about prying it off! When removing front cover there are a few 10mm bolts that are hidden from the eye. There's 1 under the sight plate on bank 1. Also 1 on the left bank if you follow the lip where the head meets over top of the PS Pump area vertically there's one. Also the 4 down at the bottom oil pan to TIMING COVER! The rest are in-sight and you will have to remove PS Pump bracket and all Idlers also. Please note washer and bearing placements on all pulley assemblies and there are a lot of different bolt lengths for the cover.

[Hogg]

Sheeze this stuff is such a pain

The main cap bolt inside the pulley is so hard to get off, I almost broke 2 ratchets fighting with that thing, and I cant find out how to stop the crank from moving, Ive tried the tire, wood, tools etc... I think I need some new supplies tomarrow.

Getting the heads off of the engine block has to be the biggest ***** EVER! I bent a breaker bar with those as well... This is rediculous everything seems to be seized on or something! ugh what the frig...

Let me know of any pointers!

Thanks a lot guys,Spence

[ch187]

lefty loosy righty tighty..

[Q45denver]

A heavy duty impact wrench and some heat from a torch should get it off. Should be fairly easy with engine out of car.

[sijoko]

An impact wrench will take it off in less than 2 seconds. The other methods are recipes for frustration. Been there, done that.

[Hogg]

Yeah I just dont know how to get the crank to stop turning, Ive tried so many things its retarted - wood in the crankshaft, blocks, anything - when I lean on the ratchet it just pops out and the motor turns over lol...

I dont have a pressure thing, or an impact gun/wrench, Im trying to borrow one from a buddy but I doubt hed let me...

I figure I need a 7ft pole on the end of my ratchet in order to get 245ftlbs that the FSM says is keeping it on... Not to mention rust and seizing...

[scorean]

I just bought an electric impact gun from Lowes for $100. One of the best tools I've ever bought. After spending about 3 hours trying to get an axle nut off, the impact wrench took it off in 2 seconds. I then removed the crank pulley nut off my 240sx in another 2 seconds... a job that would have probably taken many more hours and resulted in much swearing. I had only intended to use the gun for the axles and then take it back, but I'm keeping this thing - it's great!

In your case, buy a gun... you'll be glad you did.

[Hogg]

Yeah if I cant borrow my buddies compresser and stuff then Ill go get myself one I think, probably not hard to find one either...

Did you even stop the crank from moving or did it just twist it off before it could even move?

[Mettler]

Just wedge a 2x4 between crankshaft counterweight and block skirt, works a charm and it won't pop out if you put it in the right place.

We used a cheap dirty old 1/2" drive ALLTRADE ratchet (cheapest ****ty ratchet around) with a huge long bar slid over the handle, and it came undone easy.

Of course, you have to have a couple of people there to stop the engine stand tipping over too!

[Hogg]

Ok so now the Cylinder head bolts...

I got off the crank pulley bolt that came off easier than I expected - but was really hard still...

I rented an electric impact gun and it zipped it off within a minute or two... However the cylinder heads are another story - I got off all of the drivers side ones with a ratchet and a steel bar ontop, was difficult but eventually I got it.On the other hand the passenger side pretty much bent my bit and snapped my extension when I tried the same thing...I tackled them with the impact gun and the same deal, it basically seizures and nothing happens - just rattles about and the bolts dont even move!

What the heck am I doing wrong

[Hogg]

Also will I have to remove the Cams in order to take the head off or can I just take the whole thing off, IM trying to have minimal parts lost here :/

[Mettler]

According to the FSM you should be able to pull your heads without removing the cams, but I've never been able to do this because the outside diameter of my koken inhex socket for the head bolts is too big to clear the cams despite the reliefs that are milled into them.

Just like... don't lose stuff :p

[Hogg]

So got the cover off... Big surprise - No wonder the motor was pulled.........

The Crank Sensor last bolt is so F-d over... Completely stripped, any tips on how to get it out would be really appreciated!

SURPRISE!

=/

[Hogg]

Ive still been searching around, gone to various bolt stores and stuff - and still struggling to find the EXACT size of bolt that is needed to put my 1993 VH45DE onto an engine stand?

___x____ thats 10cm long (4)

Think I have to custom order them since I cant find em anywhere!

Thanks a lot guys,Bless-Spence

[ch187]

i just know its 14mmx1.5, just find something long. good luck, i still havent found any long enough

[Hogg]

Ill try to order some from the internet, its crazy I gotta get it out of my garage my family doesnt like this immense motor in the middle of the garage!