engine stalling
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shukatiti240
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 11:29 pm
engine stalling
whenever i take my sr past 5k rpm and push the clutch in, the rpm drops really low and ends up shutting the engine, if my car is driven for a good amount of time, it will start idling really low and bogging. it idles at about 700 right now regularly. can it be that the idle is too low or do u guys think it might be something else?
Re: engine stalling (shukatiti240)
I would adjust the idle to FSM specs. The idle should be around 750 ± 50RPMs with the TPS unplugged, which is what you are running. However, after you plug the TPS back in, your idle should jump to 800 ± 50 RPMs. So it is a minor change, but it should help a little bit. Also, your car stalling could be a couple of things, the most obvious choice being the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). Many SRs and KAs alike have this issue. The easiest and most cost effective method is to clean your IACV really well.
Cleaning the IACV properly involves taking off the upper intake manifold and unbolting the IACV. I have the directions, which I found on Zilvia at home if you would like them. However, what I did to clean the IACV was to use an intake cleaner, in my case I used Amsoil Powerfoam. When you are finding an intake cleaner, make sure that you can spray it into the intake pipe while the car is on. This will allow you to clean the IACV a lot better than with the car off. After you find a cleaner you can use with the car on, take the hose off of the IACV that comes from your cold pipe right next to the throttle body. If you don't know what I am talking about I can take pics when I get home from the uni today. When you take off this hose, your car will want to stall. You will have to increase the throttle using the throttle body while spraying into the IACV pipe. You may have to use most or all of your intake cleaner as the IACV can get really dirty. After you use 1/3 or so of the cleaner, go and drive your car to remove any deposits and see if it has any effect. I had to use the whole bottle to get mine to stop stalling. This is the easiest way to see if the IACV is your problem. If after you do this, and you still have stalling issues, you may want to look at other culprits, such as the MAFs, the injectors, the coilpacks, TPS voltage etc.. Let me know how it works out as I just tackled this problem last week.
Cleaning the IACV properly involves taking off the upper intake manifold and unbolting the IACV. I have the directions, which I found on Zilvia at home if you would like them. However, what I did to clean the IACV was to use an intake cleaner, in my case I used Amsoil Powerfoam. When you are finding an intake cleaner, make sure that you can spray it into the intake pipe while the car is on. This will allow you to clean the IACV a lot better than with the car off. After you find a cleaner you can use with the car on, take the hose off of the IACV that comes from your cold pipe right next to the throttle body. If you don't know what I am talking about I can take pics when I get home from the uni today. When you take off this hose, your car will want to stall. You will have to increase the throttle using the throttle body while spraying into the IACV pipe. You may have to use most or all of your intake cleaner as the IACV can get really dirty. After you use 1/3 or so of the cleaner, go and drive your car to remove any deposits and see if it has any effect. I had to use the whole bottle to get mine to stop stalling. This is the easiest way to see if the IACV is your problem. If after you do this, and you still have stalling issues, you may want to look at other culprits, such as the MAFs, the injectors, the coilpacks, TPS voltage etc.. Let me know how it works out as I just tackled this problem last week.
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shukatiti240
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 11:29 pm
Re: (shukatiti240)
Ok, I uploaded the directions. http://home.insightbb.com/~pgt892/IACV.txt As for pics, they will have to wait a bit as I have work today. Hope the directions help.